DIY Toner Transfer Paper (cheap and easy)) - Page 9 - Electronic Circuits Projects Diagrams Free

Rolf · 8th July 2009, 02:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rolf

This evening I tried some freezer paper, it seems to have some kind of plastic coating on one side only. I got a partial transfer that looks sharper than the ones from the wax paper. Have not completely solved the transfer or the paper removal yet. But it looks promising.
Will try to find some time over the week end to do some more tests.

By the way, the rubbing alcohol I used was 50% alcohol.

For the wax paper to work you have to print on the dull side!
Transfer to PCB as you normally would.
Let the board cool to a temperature where you can hold it, then soak the wax paper with isopropyl rubbing alcohol 91% (not proof!).
The paper should be removable after a few minutes.
This leaves a trace of toner on the paper but I don't think it is a problem; will find out next time I etch a board.

mvs sarma · 8th July 2009, 06:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rolf

For the wax paper to work you have to print on the dull side!
Transfer to PCB as you normally would.
Let the board cool to a temperature where you can hold it, then soak the wax paper with isopropyl rubbing alcohol 91% (not proof!).
The paper should be removable after a few minutes.
This leaves a trace of toner on the paper but I don't think it is a problem; will find out next time I etch a board.

But, Isoproyl will also dissolve carbon powder and might cause problem for the transferred carbon even?

BeeBop · 8th July 2009, 06:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mvs sarma

But, Isoproyl will also dissolve carbon powder and might cause problem for the transferred carbon even?

Ever tried to scrub a miss-printed transfer with alcohol? I remember trying to, and it doesn't seem to have any effect on transferred carbon.

mvs sarma · 8th July 2009, 06:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BeeBop

Ever tried to scrub a miss-printed transfer with alcohol? I remember trying to, and it doesn't seem to have any effect on transferred carbon.

Ok and thanks
I was wrongly thinking it as Thinner

Hero999 · 8th July 2009, 11:20 PM

Toner isn't carbon, it's plastic.

I haven't tried it but all you need to improve the toner transfer process, without buying a proprietary paper, is to add a release agent to the paper before using it. The release agent has to be comparable with the printer, withstand ironing and dissolve in a solvent that doesn't attack the toner (preferably water).

The wax is just acting as a release agent.

The topic of release agents really deserves its own thread.

MrDEB · 9th July 2009, 04:19 AM

mix up a water starch solution (heavy on the starch) then dip the paper into the solution.
allow to completely dry
then try a toner transfer.
maybe add some cornstarch to mix?
OR
use rubbing alcohol instead of water. would dry faster.or a mixture of rubbing alcohol/water??

MrDEB · 9th July 2009, 04:21 AM

but the wax will melt w/ heat and is water resistant.
what happened with the parchment paper experiment?

be80be · 9th July 2009, 04:31 AM

What I want to no is how do you get a nice green board and not cover all the pads up
An has any one tried this supplies & accessoriesHP Laser Presentation Paper supplies - HP Small & Medium Business products

MrDEB · 9th July 2009, 12:43 PM

it only adheres to ink so the board doesn't get green.
after your done etching you clean the board off w/ acetone (works faster than paint thinner)
this laser presentation paper? how well does it work??

Rolf · 9th July 2009, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrDEB

but the wax will melt w/ heat and is water resistant.
what happened with the parchment paper experiment?

Evedently there is not much wax on the back side of the paper and the print looks perfect but after transfer they are sightly flattened so you cand use it with fine traces.
The wax is not alcohol resistent!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I found out that you can not print on parchment paper.

be80be · 11th July 2009, 05:43 AM

Well Here's with Presentation Paper Hero999 before you tell me how bad it is I have only made two
boards in my whole life. It had two pads that didn't take toner fixed them with a marker.

Hero999 · 11th July 2009, 12:22 PM

It could've been a lot worse.

It's a very complicated board, I would have never attempted something with such fine detail for my second board.

The toner probably didn't stick because you didn't apply enough pressure to that part of the board.

If I ever see any parts where the toner doesn't stick, I'll clean the board and re-print it unless it's really minor. That's the beauty of using magazine paper, if I mess up the ironing, it doesn't cost me anything. I can re-print until I'm happy with the toner transfer, then etch.

MrDEB · 11th July 2009, 12:40 PM

never heard of it.
what andwhere?
part #'s etc.
I may give it a go.
What the heck are you cleaning your board with?
Its all scratched up.
QUESTION what are you using for etchant?
drill bits?
I found a pretty good source for bits cheap.
also going to purchase some lighter weight boards. presently have several 2oz boards but the last boards I etched were 1 oz boards and they came out better.
Saw over at the new PULSAR site about board weight and undercutting of traces.

mramos1 · 11th July 2009, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by be80be

Well Here's with Presentation Paper Hero999 before you tell me how bad it is I have only made two
boards in my whole life. It had two pads that didn't take toner fixed them with a marker.

I think you did fine and agree with Hero999, it is a bit complex for just starting.

Did you use magazine paper transfer (like Hero999 mentioned in the past) or buy some presentation paper?

Also, the board is fine, but try something lighter in grit to take the oxide off the board and that will get rid of the scratches. I use steel wool on really bad board and that is a bit rough.

For me, if the board works when done, you did good.

be80be · 11th July 2009, 03:11 PM

Magazine paper is the same thing as Presentation Paper they sell it at office max
it comes off easier then the photo paper.

Quote:

cleaning your board with

sand paper i clean copper pipe with it 220. I'm going to get some 600 to day
etchant? I don't no what it has in it I got it at radio shack it looks like oil.

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8th July 2009, 11:20 PM	#125
Hero999	Toner isn't carbon, it's plastic. I haven't tried it but all you need to improve the toner transfer process, without buying a proprietary paper, is to add a release agent to the paper before using it. The release agent has to be comparable with the printer, withstand ironing and dissolve in a solvent that doesn't attack the toner (preferably water). The wax is just acting as a release agent. The topic of release agents really deserves its own thread. __________________ I do not answer private messages asking for help because no one else can: benefit from advice I may give or correct me if I'm wrong. Please ask on the open forum if you have a question and I'll be happy to help, if I know the answer. Last edited by Hero999; 8th July 2009 at 11:21 PM.

9th July 2009, 04:19 AM	#126
MrDEB	What about starch? mix up a water starch solution (heavy on the starch) then dip the paper into the solution. allow to completely dry then try a toner transfer. maybe add some cornstarch to mix? OR use rubbing alcohol instead of water. would dry faster.or a mixture of rubbing alcohol/water??

9th July 2009, 04:21 AM	#127
MrDEB	The wax paper sounded promising but the wax will melt w/ heat and is water resistant. what happened with the parchment paper experiment?

9th July 2009, 04:31 AM	#128
be80be	What I want to no is how do you get a nice green board and not cover all the pads up An has any one tried this supplies & accessoriesHP Laser Presentation Paper supplies - HP Small & Medium Business products __________________ Burt http://mybe80be.com http://stores.shop.ebay.com/mybe80be__W0QQ_armrsZ1

9th July 2009, 12:43 PM	#129
MrDEB	The green TFF film ? it only adheres to ink so the board doesn't get green. after your done etching you clean the board off w/ acetone (works faster than paint thinner) this laser presentation paper? how well does it work??

11th July 2009, 05:43 AM	#131
be80be	Well Here's with Presentation Paper Hero999 before you tell me how bad it is I have only made two boards in my whole life. It had two pads that didn't take toner fixed them with a marker. Attached Thumbnails __________________ Burt http://mybe80be.com http://stores.shop.ebay.com/mybe80be__W0QQ_armrsZ1 Last edited by be80be; 11th July 2009 at 05:49 AM.

11th July 2009, 12:22 PM	#132
Hero999	It could've been a lot worse. It's a very complicated board, I would have never attempted something with such fine detail for my second board. The toner probably didn't stick because you didn't apply enough pressure to that part of the board. If I ever see any parts where the toner doesn't stick, I'll clean the board and re-print it unless it's really minor. That's the beauty of using magazine paper, if I mess up the ironing, it doesn't cost me anything. I can re-print until I'm happy with the toner transfer, then etch. __________________ I do not answer private messages asking for help because no one else can: benefit from advice I may give or correct me if I'm wrong. Please ask on the open forum if you have a question and I'll be happy to help, if I know the answer.

11th July 2009, 12:40 PM	#133
MrDEB	What is presentation paper?? never heard of it. what andwhere? part #'s etc. I may give it a go. What the heck are you cleaning your board with? Its all scratched up. QUESTION what are you using for etchant? drill bits? I found a pretty good source for bits cheap. also going to purchase some lighter weight boards. presently have several 2oz boards but the last boards I etched were 1 oz boards and they came out better. Saw over at the new PULSAR site about board weight and undercutting of traces.