+ Reply to Thread
Page 8 of 24
First ... 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 18 ... Last
Results 106 to 120 of 353

Thread: DIY Toner Transfer Paper (cheap and easy))

  1. #106
    Mr RB Excellent Mr RB Excellent Mr RB Excellent Mr RB Excellent Mr RB Excellent Mr RB Excellent Mr RB Excellent
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Out there
    Posts
    1,761

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Hero999 View Post
    All the rosin cored solders I've used leave a nasty sticky yellow mess behind. I haven't had any corrosion problems because I always remove it. What solder do you use?
    ...
    I checked my bench, lots of different types and I normally rip the label off but 2 had labels, consolidated alloy brand rosin cored 60/40 and a shenmao brand rosin cored RH60A. Both of these leave a clear rosin coating behind.

    I've got test gear I soldered up 30 years ago and the only corrosion on the PCBs are bits of bare copper where there was NO flux covering it. Anything with flux on stays pristine and shiny.

    -------

    Frank (PulsarProFX) please tell more about your products for front panels. Exactly how do they work? I usually get front panels engraved at the local engravers but it costs $$ and can take a few days.


  2. #107
    Rolf Good Rolf Good Rolf Good
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    E. Tennessee, USA
    Posts
    652

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DirtyLude View Post
    I couldn't find my wax paper, so I tried Parchment Paper, which has a silicon coating. I tried two boards. One I let cool after ironing and the paper peeled off leaving all sorts of spots. Second one I peeled off while it was still warm and it seemed to work fine, but when I went to use a marker to touch up and empty edge, I found the toner wasn't really stuck to the board well.

    So Parchment Paper is a fail.

    I managed to find my wax paper. I've printed off a design. I'm going to clean off the old board and try to iron it on. It goes through the printer without any issues and leaves a clean print on the wax paper.
    "So Parchment Paper is a fail." (Not by a long shot!)
    My wax paper Test wasn't the best I must admit.
    I tried the Parchment Paper they used in a bakery and the toner coverage was miserable, I think it slid right off!
    But with a coating of the Elmer's glue stick (washable) it worked great. Flatten it out with your iron before printing. Use normal transfer procedure. After about 90 seconds of soaking the paper slid right off! The glue turns purple again after getting wet, wash it off the board.
    See collage below:
    Attached Images

  3. #108
    mramos1 Excellent mramos1 Excellent mramos1 Excellent mramos1 Excellent
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Boynton Beach, Florida USA
    Posts
    2,259

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by be80be View Post
    Has any one tried Laser Presentation Paper, glossy it's thin I think
    it would work seeing photo paper worked this will almost melt in water
    I had some sample sheets I got with my printer a long time ago
    I was going to get some a try it out at office max and forgot
    my billfold LOL
    It works well. I like the picture paper (not photo), but I have use the laser presentation paper.

  4. #109
    DirtyLude Excellent DirtyLude Excellent DirtyLude Excellent DirtyLude Excellent DirtyLude Excellent DirtyLude Excellent DirtyLude Excellent DirtyLude Excellent
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    1,307

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rolf View Post
    I tried the Parchment Paper they used in a bakery and the toner coverage was miserable, I think it slid right off!
    But with a coating of the Elmer's glue stick (washable) it worked great. Flatten it out with your iron before printing. Use normal transfer procedure. After about 90 seconds of soaking the paper slid right off! The glue turns purple again after getting wet, wash it off the board.
    See collage below:
    That looks pretty good. You need to start using a better test pattern, though. That test pattern has large traces. Try something with variable trace widths, large to small, down to super small, like 1 or 2 mil. Some 90 degree bends and other things that are tough to get.

    I won't be getting any more of this Pulsar paper. It's just not working for me. The photo paper gets me better results with my process.
    Mark Higgins

  5. #110
    3v0
    3v0 is offline
    3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    6,464
    Blog Entries
    11

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DirtyLude View Post
    I won't be getting any more of this Pulsar paper. It's just not working for me. The photo paper gets me better results with my process.
    Before giving up try working with frank. He will either make you happy or buy back the paper.

    3v0
    Please post questions to the forums. PM's are for personal communication.

    BCHS/3v0's Tutorials
    Junebug USB PIC programmer kit., USB Bit Whacker,
    The 15 Minute Printed Circuit Board! (+drill time)

  6. #111
    Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    England
    Posts
    13,143

    Default

    Is the glue stick PVA based?

    It'll probably work with any paper, plus a coating of PVA based adhesive.

    I do not answer private messages asking for help because no one else can: benefit from advice I may give or correct me if I'm wrong.

    Please ask on the open forum if you have a question and I'll be happy to help,
    if I know the answer.

  7. #112
    Rolf Good Rolf Good Rolf Good
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    E. Tennessee, USA
    Posts
    652

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DirtyLude View Post
    That looks pretty good. You need to start using a better test pattern, though. That test pattern has large traces. Try something with variable trace widths, large to small, down to super small, like 1 or 2 mil. Some 90 degree bends and other things that are tough to get.

    I won't be getting any more of this Pulsar paper. It's just not working for me. The photo paper gets me better results with my process.
    I thought it looked good also, until I looked at it with a strong magnifying glass. But I don't think it pases mustard. :-(

  8. #113
    be80be Excellent be80be Excellent be80be Excellent be80be Excellent be80be Excellent be80be Excellent
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    morristown,tn
    Posts
    2,000

    Default

    I won't be getting any more of this Pulsar paper. It's just not working for me. The photo paper gets me better results with my process.
    Mark you telling me I sent 75.00 down the road and it don't work are you doing it like they tell you with the whole kit. It looked like it would work good. ??
    Burt

  9. #114
    MrDEB Excellent MrDEB Excellent MrDEB Excellent MrDEB Excellent MrDEB Excellent MrDEB Excellent
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    2,138

    Default IMHO Pulsar systen is GREAT

    Have done using an iron with fair results
    went with the laminiator, talked to someone at Pulsar for direction and now the results are GREAT.
    Havn't tried the .006 traces yet. Did .010 no problem.
    the website and test sheet (in kit) has some .006 traces, two traces between IC pins).
    Did part of the test sheet and the .006 traces came out perfect.
    If your not getting a good transfer then your doing something wrong.
    Try burnishing the edges of the board first
    CLEAN using scotch brite pad (had good results with 600 W/D paper)
    DO NOT touch the surface of the board
    dry with lint free paper towel
    DO NOT pull the paper off until you soak in water.
    I found picking up an edge of the paper and seeing if it transfered. Better way is you should be able to see a faint outline of your traces when the transfer is right.
    Increase the heat and use the dowel as described on the Pulsar site.
    USE the green TFF film
    Besure you printer is set with the higest density possiable.
    try printing on ordinary paper and hold up to a light. = o voids and light doesn't shine through the printed traces.
    I have been down this road and learned alot by trial and error as well as conversing with Pulsar.

  10. #115
    DirtyLude Excellent DirtyLude Excellent DirtyLude Excellent DirtyLude Excellent DirtyLude Excellent DirtyLude Excellent DirtyLude Excellent DirtyLude Excellent
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    1,307

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by be80be View Post
    Mark you telling me I sent 75.00 down the road and it don't work are you doing it like they tell you with the whole kit. It looked like it would work good. ??
    If you use the whole kit with the laminator and the green film, I'm sure it will work fine and you haven't wasted your money.

    Quote Originally Posted by PulsarProFX View Post
    Mark! Call me and I'll figure out for you what's wrong. We don't allow unhappy customers. "If you don't love what we make, we want it back!" There are some parameters that must be held in check but they are pretty easy to do.
    I've been doing this for many years with photo paper. I get excellent boards down to 8mils. I haven't tried anything smaller and I can't imagine that I will. I was hoping to not have to scrub off the photo paper from the boards, which is definitely what the Pulsar Paper offers, and I would pay the extra cost for that. Unfortunately the coverage is not enough to avoid pinholes. I use an iron, not a laminator and I'm getting some issues with the paper slipping and the traces misforming.

    So, I'm not buying green film to add more work, where I lost it with scrubbing off the board. I'm not buying a laminator and new printer just for this. Really, in order to get the same results, without the scrubbing I'd have to buy more things which is more than I care for. So for me, I'm sure I could good results if I did everything you say to do, but I don't gain enough to make it worth it to me.
    Mark Higgins

  11. #116
    be80be Excellent be80be Excellent be80be Excellent be80be Excellent be80be Excellent be80be Excellent
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    morristown,tn
    Posts
    2,000

    Default

    Mark I see where your coming from I never done any before I tried it last week with photo paper and I was amazed at how fine it could print. I can sure see how you don't want to add more to get the same results. When i was in high school we did some copper plates for ink printing with paper like what I ask about and if I can remember right seeing it was 28 years ago it worked good and the printer i have now is way better then what we used then. Thanks for the reply Mark now i got some thing to go by
    Last edited by be80be; 7th July 2009 at 01:25 AM.
    Burt

  12. #117
    mvs sarma Excellent mvs sarma Excellent mvs sarma Excellent mvs sarma Excellent mvs sarma Excellent mvs sarma Excellent mvs sarma Excellent mvs sarma Excellent mvs sarma Excellent
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Hyderabad, India.
    Posts
    2,476
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by PulsarProFX View Post
    Mark! Call me and I'll figure out for you what's wrong. We don't allow unhappy customers. "If you don't love what we make, we want it back!" There are some parameters that must be held in check but they are pretty easy to do.

    The paper will release whatever you put on it... it can be crayon and it's going to float off in under 1 minute guaranteed. The trick is to have the printer "up to speed". The newest HP's (and others) now address a new parameter and that is to set the paper's "weight". Our medium is 170gsm (grams/sq.meter). That's pretty heavy (deliberately so) to increase dimensional stability for 2x patterns.

    Call me when you get a chance so I can discuss this with you and get things back on track. We're open 9am-5pm, (850) 926-2009.

    Thanks, Frank
    That is nice of the company. Incidentally did you have any distributers in India, and if so please provide the address, and contact.
    Regards,
    Sarma.

  13. #118
    DirtyLude Excellent DirtyLude Excellent DirtyLude Excellent DirtyLude Excellent DirtyLude Excellent DirtyLude Excellent DirtyLude Excellent DirtyLude Excellent
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    1,307

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by PulsarProFX View Post
    There is a misconception going on that I'd like to clarify. The GreenTRF film you're referring to is not to prevent pinholes in your toner printout. Pinholes are from your laser printer not giving you 100% coverage, caused from low density setting, low quality toner cartridge, etc.
    This is an HP1012 with a new OEM brand cartridge. I actually have one old cartridge for regular printing and a new one for doing transfers. The old one still covers well, but it streaks a bit.

    Given that this is an issue with my printer is there a way that I can correct the issue of pinholes? All settings on my printer are for heaviest print setting. Whatever the green film corrects, I do not need it right now in order to get clear boards using photo paper. So, if the etching isn't the same without it, then I'd rather not buy it to get the same result.

    I'd be willing to play around with ironing techniques, but my major issue is with the fill. I also had some trace squishing on my first board, but I can see if that goes away with ironing technique.
    Mark Higgins

  14. #119
    Wond3rboy Okay
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Hyderabad,Pakistan
    Posts
    472
    Blog Entries
    2

    Default Ironing too much?huh

    hi i did a PCB transfer yesterday and i was surprised that i actually ironed it too much in the sense the ink like sort of melted. Not spread. It covered the holes and some wires became a thick black line. I never knew one could iron it too much i always try to iron it as much as i can so as too get as much ink on the board but i guess too much of any thing isnt good.
    Last edited by Wond3rboy; 7th July 2009 at 01:08 PM.
    Syed

  15. #120
    BeeBop Excellent BeeBop Excellent BeeBop Excellent BeeBop Excellent BeeBop Excellent BeeBop Excellent
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Vancouver Canada
    Posts
    1,193

    Default

    Thanks for that last tip Frank. I have been using my HP set on 3 with Pulsar paper with very good results. I didn't think to look for that setting, or I did and didn't find it, but that was so long ago. (I've been buying your products for more than a couple of years here at RP Electronics.) Now things will just get better!

+ Reply to Thread
Page 8 of 24
First ... 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 18 ... Last

Similar Threads

  1. Toner Transfer PCB... Possible on this?
    By Franknstein in forum Electronic Projects Design/Ideas/Reviews
    Replies: 31
    Latest: 11th November 2009, 09:13 PM
  2. PCB toner transfer
    By Badar in forum General Electronics Chat
    Replies: 58
    Latest: 16th July 2009, 01:40 PM
  3. Toner Transfer paper, UK
    By HerbertMunch in forum General Electronics Chat
    Replies: 15
    Latest: 1st December 2007, 03:01 PM
  4. toner transfer with silicone impreg paper
    By justDIY in forum General Electronics Chat
    Replies: 28
    Latest: 13th March 2007, 10:33 PM
  5. toner paper
    By nye in forum Electronic Projects Design/Ideas/Reviews
    Replies: 8
    Latest: 27th October 2006, 09:23 PM

Tags for this Thread