Originally Posted by Rolf

I tried the Parchment Paper they used in a bakery and the toner coverage was miserable, I think it slid right off!
But with a coating of the Elmer's glue stick (washable) it worked great. Flatten it out with your iron before printing. Use normal transfer procedure. After about 90 seconds of soaking the paper slid right off! The glue turns purple again after getting wet, wash it off the board.
See collage below:

That looks pretty good. You need to start using a better test pattern, though. That test pattern has large traces. Try something with variable trace widths, large to small, down to super small, like 1 or 2 mil. Some 90 degree bends and other things that are tough to get.

I won't be getting any more of this Pulsar paper. It's just not working for me. The photo paper gets me better results with my process.

Originally Posted by DirtyLude

I won't be getting any more of this Pulsar paper. It's just not working for me. The photo paper gets me better results with my process.

Before giving up try working with frank. He will either make you happy or buy back the paper.

3v0

Is the glue stick PVA based?

It'll probably work with any paper, plus a coating of PVA based adhesive.

I won't be getting any more of this Pulsar paper. It's just not working for me. The photo paper gets me better results with my process.

Mark you telling me I sent 75.00 down the road and it don't work are you doing it like they tell you with the whole kit. It looked like it would work good. ??

Originally Posted by be80be

Mark you telling me I sent 75.00 down the road and it don't work are you doing it like they tell you with the whole kit. It looked like it would work good. ??

If you use the whole kit with the laminator and the green film, I'm sure it will work fine and you haven't wasted your money.

Originally Posted by PulsarProFX

Mark! Call me and I'll figure out for you what's wrong. We don't allow unhappy customers. "If you don't love what we make, we want it back!" There are some parameters that must be held in check but they are pretty easy to do.

I've been doing this for many years with photo paper. I get excellent boards down to 8mils. I haven't tried anything smaller and I can't imagine that I will. I was hoping to not have to scrub off the photo paper from the boards, which is definitely what the Pulsar Paper offers, and I would pay the extra cost for that. Unfortunately the coverage is not enough to avoid pinholes. I use an iron, not a laminator and I'm getting some issues with the paper slipping and the traces misforming.

So, I'm not buying green film to add more work, where I lost it with scrubbing off the board. I'm not buying a laminator and new printer just for this. Really, in order to get the same results, without the scrubbing I'd have to buy more things which is more than I care for. So for me, I'm sure I could good results if I did everything you say to do, but I don't gain enough to make it worth it to me.

Mark I see where your coming from I never done any before I tried it last week with photo paper and I was amazed at how fine it could print. I can sure see how you don't want to add more to get the same results. When i was in high school we did some copper plates for ink printing with paper like what I ask about and if I can remember right seeing it was 28 years ago it worked good and the printer i have now is way better then what we used then. Thanks for the reply Mark now i got some thing to go by

Originally Posted by PulsarProFX

Mark! Call me and I'll figure out for you what's wrong. We don't allow unhappy customers. "If you don't love what we make, we want it back!" There are some parameters that must be held in check but they are pretty easy to do.

The paper will release whatever you put on it... it can be crayon and it's going to float off in under 1 minute guaranteed. The trick is to have the printer "up to speed". The newest HP's (and others) now address a new parameter and that is to set the paper's "weight". Our medium is 170gsm (grams/sq.meter). That's pretty heavy (deliberately so) to increase dimensional stability for 2x patterns.

Call me when you get a chance so I can discuss this with you and get things back on track. We're open 9am-5pm, (850) 926-2009.

Thanks, Frank

That is nice of the company. Incidentally did you have any distributers in India, and if so please provide the address, and contact.

Originally Posted by PulsarProFX

There is a misconception going on that I'd like to clarify. The GreenTRF film you're referring to is not to prevent pinholes in your toner printout. Pinholes are from your laser printer not giving you 100% coverage, caused from low density setting, low quality toner cartridge, etc.

This is an HP1012 with a new OEM brand cartridge. I actually have one old cartridge for regular printing and a new one for doing transfers. The old one still covers well, but it streaks a bit.

Given that this is an issue with my printer is there a way that I can correct the issue of pinholes? All settings on my printer are for heaviest print setting. Whatever the green film corrects, I do not need it right now in order to get clear boards using photo paper. So, if the etching isn't the same without it, then I'd rather not buy it to get the same result.

I'd be willing to play around with ironing techniques, but my major issue is with the fill. I also had some trace squishing on my first board, but I can see if that goes away with ironing technique.

hi i did a PCB transfer yesterday and i was surprised that i actually ironed it too much in the sense the ink like sort of melted. Not spread. It covered the holes and some wires became a thick black line. I never knew one could iron it too much i always try to iron it as much as i can so as too get as much ink on the board but i guess too much of any thing isnt good.