Is it necessary to pass the board through the laminator multiple times, or is a single pass good enough? The boards are thin, maybe credit card thickness, and the laminator is a $25, 4" model.
I got good boards almost every time (careless fingerprints on edge), but bought a refilled toner cartridge, and get very grainy, barely usable boards. Have to replace the cartridge when I do toner transfer, and switch back for regular print.

Never tried PNP, so don't know if its worth the higher cost. My experience with a cloths iron and various papers, even overhead inkjet transparencies was terrible, only two barely usable boards, and a lot of wasted time (which I have little of). The laminator and Pulsar paper have worked great, very simple and quick. I've printed, etched, drilled, and stuffed several projects in less than an hour. Never get that with photo paper and a cloths iron.

 

Is there any place in the greater Los Angeles area where I can get Pulsar over the counter? I hate to pay P&H from Minnesota unless I have to.

-Mike

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de KI6RWX

 

Hi everyone, sorry to jump to the next phase but i have a question, is there any substitute to solder mask? All the PCB's that i make go dull because i cant find solder mask here and it makes a nice work look ugly.

Thanks.

__________________
Syed

 

If it bothers you, just cover with a conformal coating or tin plate the whole PCB immediately after etching.

It doesn't bother me if it goes dull as long as I've soldered everything. If the board is going to be used in a corrosive atmosphere I'd conformally coat.

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A light coat of clear acrylic spray just after etching will keep the copper bright. If the layer is too thick it will be difficult to solder. By light I mean one quick pass.

After construction you can add additional layers.

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BCHS/3v0's Tutorials
Junebug USB PIC programmer kit., USB Bit Whacker,
The 15 Minute Printed Circuit Board! (+drill time)

 

Another thing: I strongly recommend removing the flux with an alcohol based solvent after soldering, otherwise it can cause corrosion problems.

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but dry it really dry. I used soap and water, dried really well and had green appear on the copper a week later.
I tried the acrylic spray, musta got to thick.
I purchased some liquid tin. I found soldering easier and my solder joints are a brighter shine.??
after soldering and testing I then spray a coat or two of clear acrylic or laquer.

 

whether a brushing with moistened brush and wet cloth wipe is not sufficient?

__________________
Regards,
Sarma.

 

It depends on the flux, some are water soluble but most others aren't, check the datasheet.

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I'm gonna argue that! I've used many brands of rosin cored solder over lots of years, and I always leave the flux on the joints unless it's for a photo or something. Rosin flux leaves a clear coating over the joint that actually stops corrosion.

Maybe you have been using some type of acid flux cored solder??

 

I etch, clean then tin coat.
then it doesn't matter how long before I solder parts on.
And I am using rosin flux w/ rosin core solder.
the thin solder doesn't have enough flux to really get some solder flow.
its yellow in color and not water soluble.
I wash with alcohol after done soldering.

 

The first thing I ever soldered was a jack on a radio it was back in 1975. My dad had a soldering gun he wrap a piece of copper wire on the tip to use for smaller jobs. I picked
up the first solder I found on the table and solder a way. Dad came over and looked at it and that looks good son but the acid cored solder will eat your board up.
It did eat the wire off and it didn't take long.

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http://mybe80be.com
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All the rosin cored solders I've used leave a nasty sticky yellow mess behind. I haven't had any corrosion problems because I always remove it. What solder do you use?

Soldering was also part of my apprenticeship and a board covered in flux whould never be allowed out. I doubt the company would use acid cored flux but all flux is corrosive to some extent.

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Has any one tried Laser Presentation Paper, glossy it's thin I think
it would work seeing photo paper worked this will almost melt in water
I had some sample sheets I got with my printer a long time ago
I was going to get some a try it out at office max and forgot
my billfold LOL

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I have been testing different DIY toner transfer papers for a while and I have had the same experience as Michael at rcgroup.com below:

"I had to program some PICs for IR receivers and needed an adapter. I found out the the backing paper from laser labels is ideal from the toner transfer method. It has some sort of wax coating. The laser will print on it OK but the printed parts shouldn't be touched as the toner can smear. Place on clean copper and press down with a hot iron (cotton setting). Don't press too hard as this can cause the toner to smear. Let it cool for 30 seconds then peel off the paper. If you got the pressure and temp right no toner will be left on the backing paper. Even very thin traces are possible. The pads on the adapter for 10Fxxx PICs are only 0.5x0.5mm. The etched adapter is for 16F630 and has 0.65mm pad spacing.

I use a lot of laser labels for Indoor Flyer so the backing paper is really a waste product that I now have a good use for. Forget Press'n'peel - get some laser labels instead.

Michael"