And you print on the back side of it?

 

Simple, don't bake it then. Why would you bake it?

__________________

I do not answer private messages asking for help because no one else can: benefit from advice I may give or correct me if I'm wrong.

Please ask on the open forum if you have a question and I'll be happy to help, if I know the answer.

 

How do you get the toner on to the copper without heating it to about 300°F for several minutes??????????????? Is that not essentially baking every thing on the transfer paper?????????

 

No the front side.

 

Oh, you mean iron it, yes fair point but you don't have to use the highest heat setting do you

__________________

I do not answer private messages asking for help because no one else can: benefit from advice I may give or correct me if I'm wrong.

Please ask on the open forum if you have a question and I'll be happy to help, if I know the answer.

 

What if your layout runs through the cuts in the labels?

 

I don't go by settings, I go by temperature.
P-n-P recommends 300°F +/- 25°F, So I set my iron to 300°F with a thermocouple thermometer. That happens to be between wool and cotton on my iron.

 

You use the label backing paper AFTER the labels are used or removed.

 

I tried the Muriatic Acid/Peroxide etchant today and it worked well. I think I'm going to stick with it.

__________________
Mark Higgins

 

I did a couple boards that way today and they come out so nice and a lot faster. So Ferric Chloride is out for me.

When I did my first board with water, the waste was blue (1/3 1/3 1/3), without the 1/3 water, it seems to turn green. Either way it works.

Now I have 7 bottles of Ferric Chloride and a bag of the powdered version I will probably never use.

I have not tried doing them in a zip-lock plastic bag yet. But next ones I will try that method.

 

never thought about doing it that way.
problem is the bag size needs to be large.
I myself use a plastic tub like what ice cream came in. even considered using a "kitty litter box" but would need lots more chemical.
my vote is for the hydrogen peroxide/muratic acid
this wax paper thing not real sure about. go-na have to try it out

 

The way I judge how much hydrogen peroxide/muriatic acid to mix; a 1/2 cup will do 10 sq" easily.
I use a turkey baster to squirt the acid on the board which I have placed face up in the tray.
The laser label backing paper is better.

 

I have only done the bag thing with sodium persulphate which is much safer to handle.

Make sure you use the freezer zip lock bags. The others are not strong enough and will leak. Even so I am not sure if it is a good idea.

__________________
Please post questions to the forums. PM's are for personal communication.

BCHS/3v0's Tutorials
Junebug USB PIC programmer kit., USB Bit Whacker,
The 15 Minute Printed Circuit Board! (+drill time)

 

I have done a rough test of magazine paper and and magazine paper with Elmer's Washable School Glue Stick. Paper was not high gloss. Only the right side of the "transfer" paper was covered with the glue. Make sure that the glue is dry before printing. Picture was taken after about three minutes of rubbing / washing both sides about equally:

The top right side did evidently not have enough glue on it.

 

You must be doing some pretty large boards to need a bucket. 20cm is about as large as I've ever needed, so I just use a plastic sandwich container. For the FC etchant, I would shine a light underneath, which would warm the etchant and also I'd be able to see when the etching was complete, because I could see through the board.

I don't see any benefit to the plastic bag and I can see it being a mess.

Ya, I have one bottle of FC and one bottle of AP crystals that I'll never use.

Here's a tip. Don't sniff the muriatic acid, like I did. That'll wake you up.

__________________
Mark Higgins