No, it didn't work for me. Back to my old picture paper.

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Mark Higgins

 

What was the issue, it is hard to tell from the picture. :-(

 

I thought it was pretty clear in the picture. There are areas with toner that lifted. At the top near my finger and the traces close to the single pin header. Some of the annular rings on the double row header are way too thin.

I'm not certain what the alcohol is supposed to do, but it doesn't seem to do anything special for me. I'm thinking the wax paper may be different.

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Mark Higgins

 

Maybe its the toner I have a old hp1310 going for the gold lol

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Burt
http://mybe80be.com
http://stores.shop.ebay.com/mybe80be__W0QQ_armrsZ1

 

I never got the ironing to work well, so I was addicted to the photo method till this thread. I'm using an HP LJ4P with an HP 92274A (official) cartridge. My laminator is a Gordon 92499. I use 7 to 10 passes. The board gets *very* hot, of course.

I tried the super-thin glossy Wednesday supermarket and restaurant ads. Doesn't matter if there's any ink on them, so I aim for a blank spot so I can inspect better. Paper release is almost 100% within a minute, with lukewarm water and light rubbing. Within minutes, I was making perfect boards with 0.012" traces.

I've just started with wax paper, but the parameters seem different. I'm having trouble in the printer, it wants to wrinkle and the toner density on the wax isn't as good. If I learn anything more, I'llpost all that I know.

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de KI6RWX

 

I use a thin cheap paper that works well, atleast by my standards(gets the job done). I did buy a paper on which they print photos with a laser printer.It has a sort of a plastic lamination on one side. Will try to see if it works out.

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Syed

 

People have been experimenting with using various things for toner transfer for about 20 years. The only thing new in this thread is the use of alcohol to melt a paper coating and provide a release. The rest have been tried numerous times.

I would like to point out the pulsar paper costs about 1.6 cents per square inch and provides 100% release because the starch liquefies when wet. The paper floats off the PCB. Any process where you need to pull the paper away from the PCB is more likely to lift fine traces. It can be had from Mouser and Digikey in the US and Flighline Graphics (paper only) in the UK.

I am not saying others papers or P&P do not work.

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Please post questions to the forums. PM's are for personal communication.

BCHS/3v0's Tutorials
Junebug USB PIC programmer kit., USB Bit Whacker,
The 15 Minute Printed Circuit Board! (+drill time)

 

One thing I want to try is PVA or similar water soluble paper adhesive thinly painted on to pain copier paper and left to dry. The idea is it will dissolve when soaked.

Another idea is rice paper but that's probably more expensive than nay proprietary paper.

__________________

I do not answer private messages asking for help because no one else can: benefit from advice I may give or correct me if I'm wrong.

Please ask on the open forum if you have a question and I'll be happy to help, if I know the answer.

 

Has anyone tried something like hair spray on plain paper? Will stink when it fuses I bet, but a thought? Maybe the hair spray will give easier up in the water or iso-rub soak.

Not sure what wax or other coatings will do to the laser printer.

I still use hammer mill business gloss, works great as long as you scuff up the the back of the paper after the first 5 seconds of the soaking process. It is coated on both sides.

 

Photo Paper.
3V0 has gotten to me, and I'm going to order some Pulsar paper on my next Digikey order.

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Mark Higgins

 

Looking back on all my inconsistent experiments; I think the only one worth while and it is not my idea, is the one using laser label backing paper.
With some careful shopping you can (on eBay) get a 100 sheets for $ 15.00. And that is essentially free since you can use the labels for their intended purpose.
I used for comparison during my experiments and I think it compeers favorable with some much more expensive commercial transfer papers.

 

My wax paper experiments has not left any visible degradation on my regular print quality.

What I have learned is that laser label backing paper is the best, by far, of the unconventional transfer papers. And it is also essentially free, if you use the labels.

 

The problem with some glues are that after they have been baked, they are no longer water soluble. I have found one that dosent change, it is Elmer's Washable school stick. Comes four to a package, cost around one dollar.
I tried it on the freezer paper, the transfer came off clean after an extended soaking (didnt time it, probaly should have used warm water) and a little rubbing with a finger to remove the glue. See photo below:

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Rolf, hope you have a spare printer

So what is laser label backing paper? Is this a office depot thing and that is the actual name? If so I will try some. No real label on it I hope. I hate labels in the laser, spent too much time pulling them out for others.

No one like the hair spray idea I guess. I have not tried this, it was just a thought.

 

It is the paper that the labels are stuck on.
If you are not going to use the labels get the ones that have just six on a sheet.
Make sure they are the laser type or else they might come off in the printer.