DIY Toner Transfer Paper (cheap and easy)) - Page 14 - Electronic Circuits Projects Diagrams Free

tariq7868 · 7th August 2009, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PulsarProFX

Hi Mark,

The problem is you didn't calibrate the HEAT of the iron. The objective is to never be able to reach the melting temperature of your particular toner. The more pressure (eg. entire body weight as a 'constant') the less temperature needed to achieve the "sticky" state of toner. These two properties (sticky and melting temperatures) are VERY close with just the weight of the iron and maybe a few pounds of downward force, however, crank up the pressure and you can crank down the heat, thus increasing the "spread" between fusing and melting temps. This is why calibrating the iron is so important otherwise you'll have too much temp for the pressure and total toner distortion happens. With a calibrated iron, you can leave the iron on indefinitely with max pressure and nothing will happen to the toner, It'll never get to melting temp so it can't distort... ever! It took us a long time to get all of this figured out.

Frank from Pulsar

as i told above ,, on my first try the print made on copper board was good but light , so i again placed the printed wax paper and set the iron (1000W) to max heat for 10mins.

The Result :

print on the copper board was just a little better than before but a small portion in the middle just swelled up(and detached form the board) & WASTED ..

Conclusion: at max temperature, using 1000w iron , only 3-4min will do the job

Rolf · 8th August 2009, 03:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tariq7868

as i told above ,, on my first try the print made on copper board was good but light , so i again placed the printed wax paper and set the iron (1000W) to max heat for 10mins.

The Result :

print on the copper board was just a little better than before but a small portion in the middle just swelled up(and detached form the board) & WASTED ..

Conclusion: at max temperature, using 1000w iron , only 3-4min will do the job

The iron I use heat up in about a minute, max temperature is likely to be to hot and the toner will bubble. It is best to check you iron temp. with a suitable thermometer. Set it to 300°F.
If you dont have a thermometer set the iron between acrylic and polyester to start with.
Remembering back to my experiments; the wax paper had a good side (and a bad), I think it was the duller of the two sides that worked best.

Hero999 · 8th August 2009, 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rolf

Set it to 300°F.
If you dont have a thermometer set the iron between acrylic and polyester to start with.

Actually there's no hard and fast rule: it depends on the toner's melting point.

Rolf · 8th August 2009, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hero999

Actually there's no hard and fast rule: it depends on the toner's melting point.

The different printers toners fusion temp. must be in the same ballpark, otherwise why would the P-n-P instructions state 300°F +/- 25°F.
Where are you getting your information from?

mramos1 · 8th August 2009, 03:07 PM

I run the iron all the way up and iron for 3+ minutes and it always works well. Will check temp next time and see what the iron runs.

Rolf · 8th August 2009, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mramos1

I run the iron all the way up and iron for 3+ minutes and it always works well. Will check temp next time and see what the iron runs.

Great! If there are large inconsistencies in temperature requirements we need to know.
So I will start: I use a HP printer and it works great at <3min at 300°F.
We are of cause talking about toner transfer using an iron.

mramos1 · 8th August 2009, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rolf

Great! If there are large inconsistencies in temperature requirements we need to know.
So I will start: I use a HP printer and it works great at <3min at 300°F.
We are of cause talking about toner transfer using an iron.

Been doing it that way probably 6 or 7 years. I did try PnP way back, but yielded about the same results. So why spend the money was my thought.

Tried the laminating machine as well, took too many passes when the iron does it in minutes.

Hero999 · 8th August 2009, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rolf

The different printers toners fusion temp. must be in the same ballpark, otherwise why would the P-n-P instructions state 300°F +/- 25°F.
Where are you getting your information from?

The Pulsar website and my experience with different printers, the temperature seems to vary quite a bit.

Rolf · 8th August 2009, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hero999

The Pulsar website and my experience with different printers, the temperature seems to vary quite a bit.

What do you mean by "quite a bit"? Is 300°F =/- 25°F "quite a bit" or just a little bit?
I can't stomach all the ambiguity in information on the Pulsar site, and I only saw one reference to temperature, 275°F. They are in essence jut pushing their laminator sales and we are talking about using an iron.
If it is large difference why don't they publish the fact? In other words the temp. required for each brand of printers.
Time and temperature are major components of this process and we need reliable information to get good repeatable results.

3v0 · 8th August 2009, 06:04 PM

Rolf have you seen this page ?
PCB "Fab-In-A-Box" ... The 8min circuit board system

Look for

CALIBRATING THE IRON:

This is more useful then a table of toner temperature setting.

3v0

Rolf · 8th August 2009, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3v0

Rolf have you seen this page ?
PCB "Fab-In-A-Box" ... The 8min circuit board system

Look for

CALIBRATING THE IRON:

This is more useful then a table of toner temperature setting.

3v0

I looked at it and didn't read past this B.S.:
"The main problem with using an iron is that it is not a well controlled heating device and pressure applied can be a total variable from person to person, so we're going to have you calibrate your iron specifically for your weight! Yes, you are going to be applying your entire body weight to the iron and that will now change the this 'variable' into a 'constant'."

3v0 · 8th August 2009, 06:47 PM

Looks like there is more then plenty of BS here too.

Quote:

I can't stomach all the ambiguity in information on the Pulsar site, and I only saw one reference to temperature, 275°F

Quite a bit of negativity given that you did not bother to scan the rest of the page. Snap to judgment comes to mind.

In the real world it does not much matter if what one writes is true or not. If enough people spread enough bull others will take it as fact.

3v0

tariq7868 · 8th August 2009, 07:09 PM

toner used in photocopying took almost double the time in transferring than the toner used in hp P1006 laser printer

Rolf · 8th August 2009, 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tariq7868

toner used in photocopying took almost double the time in transferring than the toner used in hp P1006 laser printer

That is interesting.......

DirtyLude · 8th August 2009, 07:53 PM

To add to the confusion. I crank my iron to the max when using the photo paper, but apparently this is too hot for Pulsar paper and gives me squished lines. I don't know the specific iron temp and I have not tried the Pulsar paper again using lower temps, yet.

So, the useful temperature may not only be based on the toner you are using, but the 'paper' you are using as well.

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8th August 2009, 03:07 PM	#200
mramos1	I run the iron all the way up and iron for 3+ minutes and it always works well. Will check temp next time and see what the iron runs.

8th August 2009, 06:04 PM	#205
3v0	Rolf have you seen this page ? PCB "Fab-In-A-Box" ... The 8min circuit board system Look for CALIBRATING THE IRON: This is more useful then a table of toner temperature setting. 3v0 __________________ Please post questions to the forums. PM's are for personal communication. BCHS/3v0's Tutorials Junebug USB PIC programmer kit., USB Bit Whacker, The 15 Minute Printed Circuit Board! (+drill time)

8th August 2009, 07:09 PM	#208
tariq7868	toner used in photocopying took almost double the time in transferring than the toner used in hp P1006 laser printer __________________ Rεσllγ !!! Mγ Σ×ρer!ence is Directly Propotional τΘ the NΦ of Electronic Items I have Me§§eD µρ ...

8th August 2009, 07:53 PM	#210
DirtyLude	To add to the confusion. I crank my iron to the max when using the photo paper, but apparently this is too hot for Pulsar paper and gives me squished lines. I don't know the specific iron temp and I have not tried the Pulsar paper again using lower temps, yet. So, the useful temperature may not only be based on the toner you are using, but the 'paper' you are using as well. __________________ Mark Higgins