Well as the title says, I am at the stage where I would like to have a crack at etching my own PCB.

Could you take a look at the following list and tell me if I am missing something, some bits may seem a bit extravagant but I want to ensure that any problems are because of lack of experience and not having the "right tools".

Processing Tray
Ferric Chloride Etchant
Tin Plating Crystals
Etch Resist Pen
Universal Solvent
PCB Board
Polifix Block
Press-n-Peel
Thermometer
Gloves
Safety Glasses

What do you think? I was wondering about what might be the best container to store the Ferric Chloride and Crystals - any ideas?

Many thanks

Mark

 

I would think that a special bottle used for photo-developing chemicals would be suitable for the ferric chloride. A glass container might work, if it is not photo-sensitive.

Just a suggestion ... not experience related.

 

So what container do you use to store a "Universal Solvent"?

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Carl
Curmudgeon Elektroniker

 

The liquid feric chloride from radio shack comes in a plastic bottle. Storing it in a metal bottle would be a bad move.

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Especially if the bottle is aluminum ... or copper

I've stored my NaOH developer and ferric chloride solutions in translucent HDPE bottles for years, never had a problem.

Jeff

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Thanks for your suggestions, what do you think of my shopping list?

 

I use a quart size bottle from engine oil (had a leaky car, always laying around), rinsed it out very well. Just seemed like the most chemical resistant container on hand, and I want to etch...

Cheap food containers work well for etching trays. Mostly use them to sort and store parts, but it was about the right size for the boards I etch, and had plenty on hand.

I use toner transfer, a little touch up sometimes with a Sharpie marker. They come in an extra fine point now, bought a couple at Walmart when I saw them about a month ago, but haven't needed them yet. Should have written something on my last set of boards, just to see if the work as well.

Thermometer? Seldom drops below 70 degrees here in Florida.

Solvent, I use Acetone. Cheap, easy to find, and works for most things, even plastic repair... Still have half the can I bought 5 years ago, and use it for a lot of stuff besides electronics.

 

You will need some drills to finish your PCB. You will have to be very good to make these holes just holding a dremel in your hands. A holder that convert it as a drill press is better.

Before I was using my big drill press that spin at a maximum of 10 000 RPM. It was working pretty well. Never broke a bit. Now I use a small CNC machine that I assembled from parts found here and there and I drill my holes as the first step, before toner transfer and etching.

Alain

Attached Thumbnails

 

 

what kinds of drill bits you recommend for drilling PCBs? recently i bought a titanium coated one...because the usual black drill bits don't last for more than 2-3 boards... if i don't brake them...they become less sharp and they don't drill as fast as they did...

i have also ordered some cobalt ones...

 

A very fine tip waterproof sharpie pen, will make finer lines and finer detail touch ups than the PCB pen in those few places you might need it.

A bottle (or 2) of cheap fast dry nail varnish, cheaper than the PCB pen and better/faster for large coverage like ground planes etc. Washes off in acetone and you can also use it for fixing tiny screws, trimpots etc.

If using pressnpeel I really recommend spending $25 on a cheap laminator even if you have to mod it to turn the heat up a bit.

 

These are carbide drill bits. You can find them easily on EBay. Just look for PCB drills. They are often used and resharpened but I think they are still very good.

Mine are comming from a local flea market. It is possible that they have been resharpened too. As far as the size, I use almost only the bit #63. It is the smallest that I have. I use that size for all the PCB holes and I use the reamers that you see in the picture if some holes are too small.

#63 is very small but sometimes, not small enough. I think that the #68 would be better for IC's.

Alain

 

I would recommend using the Sharpie Industrial instead of the regular Sharpie. I say this because I used to plot boards using regular Sharpies in a flatbed plotter years ago and they worked great. Several recent attempts to use them gave me barely usable boards as the ink washed off (not completely) and the traces were nearly etched away. I can only guess that the ink has been reformulated. I now use the Industrial version with the same plotter and get great results.

Jeff

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In my last attempt to created fine-pitch PBC, I had a problem while attempting to drill the pads. The process drilling tended to tear the pad away from the board, runing all my hard work. I though it might be better to drill before etching.

Am I the only one who has that problem?

 

Yes, the Sharpie Industrial is better.

Unfortunately, they don't make the extra fine tip anymore. Last fall, I phone to the Company because I could not find it in Montreal and they confirmed that fact to me. It is discontinued!

Too bad! But my informations are from last fall. Maybe they started to make them again! Who knows!

Alain

 

I hope they didn't discontinue the extra-fine tip. Did you mean the ultra fine tip (with a metal nib)? I would prefer to use that one, but I've never seen them. I just a checked couple sites online and saw the extra fine tip industrial for about $1.25 US each or a case of 12 for $12-13 US.

I've had this happen when the drill bits are dull. Also high rpms are a must. Are you using the same type of carbide bits as in AlainB's photo or are they normal steel bits? Steel bits dull quickly drilling pcb's.
Also, how much copper is to be left around the finished hole? If the pad is only slightly larger than the drill, the copper can easily be torn off during drilling.

Jeff

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