Hi, i took this motor out of a washing machine.
Anyone know what all the wires are for?
Hi, i took this motor out of a washing machine.
Anyone know what all the wires are for?
Hard to say exactly. But it looks like you have a reversable DC or univeral type motor. two of the wires run the field coils(the stationalry ones on the outer part)Two of them will go to the bruches. and it also looks like it may have some sort of speed sensor on the end.
Try putting the field and brush wires in series. That should spin it up. but if its a DC only it may not run very well on AC that way. To reverse it just reverse the connections one either the field or the armature.
Can you give us a model of the wash machine? Perhaps some one here has actual schematica or hands onexperiance with it. then they can tell you exactly what you have and how to hook it up.
"When in doubt, LIGHT IT ON FIRE AND SEE WHAT COLOR OF SMOKE IT CAN MAKE!" -- tcmtech
maybe is an AC motor and the other wiring is from the starting capacitor
just a guess...
Felipe
Visit my DIY Blog http://engallamientos.wordpress.com/ Updated Mar 15 / 2010
If it was from a very new or commercial machine, it could also be a three phase motor used with variable frequency drives.
Nope! Take a look at the pictures closer. I see a commutator and a set of brush holders! dont you?
Last edited by tcmtech; 29th March 2009 at 02:24 AM.
"When in doubt, LIGHT IT ON FIRE AND SEE WHAT COLOR OF SMOKE IT CAN MAKE!" -- tcmtech
Ah, right you are. Maybe the hub on the back is an encoder or tach for speed feedback?
Looks like a "universal motor" to me, too. The white and black appear to be the brushes, yellow and brown are probably the field. That thing on the back with the two red wires is probably a magnetic speed transducer, it has a coil and a magnet on the shaft, gives you a sine wave with a frequency proportional to the speed.
thx for replying guys.
its from a domestic washing machine, about 3 years old. The bearing went on the machine and it so i got to take all the electronic goodies.
I can confirm that the black and white wires go to brushes.
When tcmtech says try putting field and brush wires in series, does he mean how i have drawn my sketch?
Its 240V 50 hz, would i be able to buy a 12v to 240v inverter and power this straight off my car?
That would work but I think it will be cheaper and more efficient just to buy a 12V motor.
Are you sure it's parallel wound? Most motors like this tend to be series wound.
You can power it directly from DC, in fact it will be more efficient run from DC than. It won't be very fast off 12V though. If you want to power it from DC, use a lower voltage than 230V, due to the fact that the winding inductance won't limit the current. As a guess, running it from 48VDC will probably give you similar performance to the mains.
I do not answer private messages asking for help because no one else can: benefit from advice I may give or correct me if I'm wrong.
Please ask on the open forum if you have a question and I'll be happy to help, if I know the answer.
I'm afraid i'm struggling to understand how these motors work. Googling universal motor i see that it is designed to run off both AC and DC. There seems to be 2 ways to control speed, pwm or phase shifting, why cant i just vary the voltage with a potentiometer?
i have no idea if its parallel or series wound. I'm not exactly sure what this means, is this when brushes and field are inline, so i would then connect my motor as in my new sketch below?
How can i tell if its series wound or parallel wound?
You would need one hell of a potentiometer to vary the voltage to that thing!
"Because I be what I be. I would tell you what you want to know if I
could, mum, but I be a cat, and no cat anywhere ever gave anyone a
straight answer, har har."
I would go with the connection that you have in the second post. And like they said try it at a lower voltage first.
As far as AC or DC series wound universal motors generealy dont have any change in efficiency from one to the other. AC does tend to give some a hum or growl when under load. But at the same input voltage there is no real measurable difference.
Does a power drill or any other device with a universal motor have any speed or power difference between AC or DC input?
In a mass production level like a wash machine they may have went with a simple phase control circuit to varry the speed.
But I am just guessing.
"When in doubt, LIGHT IT ON FIRE AND SEE WHAT COLOR OF SMOKE IT CAN MAKE!" -- tcmtech
CAREFUL WITH THE SERIES WOUND MOTOR - they tend to speed up and blow themselves to hell if you run them unloaded.
My experience is they are usually parallel wound. Could it be they are series for 220V and parallel for 110V?
Hero999, do you have a formula for relating the DC equivalent voltage of a universal motor to the AC rating? I looked around, couldn't find one, be a handy thing to know.
When run from DC there are less losses because the current doesn't reverse there will be no hysteresis losses in the field coils and the eddy loss will also be lower.
I found that out for my self by removing the fan from a series wound vacuum cleaner motor. Luckily the motor wasn't too badly damaged, just one of the brushes suffered a bit of wear.
That may be true.My experience is they are usually parallel wound. Could it be they are series for 220V and parallel for 110V?
It probably also depends on the appliance, I'd imagine electric drills to be parallel as they're often operated unloaded. I assumed a washing machine would be series because it's always loaded but I'm obviously wrong.
No, I just discovered I could power a 230V vacuum cleaner motor well off 48V, actually it was probably closer to 56V and it might not have been running at full power.Hero999, do you have a formula for relating the DC equivalent voltage of a universal motor to the AC rating? I looked around, couldn't find one, be a handy thing to know.
I'll have a play around if I ever manage to get hold of a load of SLAs to connect up in series. I was at work when I did this last.
This kind of thing could be handy for example if you want to use power tools in a damp environment, to eliminate the dangers associated with mains, you could stick DC connectors on them and run them from batteries or a DC PSU in a safe location.
Last edited by Hero999; 29th March 2009 at 07:05 PM.
I do not answer private messages asking for help because no one else can: benefit from advice I may give or correct me if I'm wrong.
Please ask on the open forum if you have a question and I'll be happy to help, if I know the answer.
Thanks for the warning duffy.
what kind of current should i expect with 24v DC? I plan to try running this motor using my bench power supply at 24V DC but my power supply only goes to 3 Amps, is this a problem?
Just to be clear i wont damage the motor if i try powering it as a series wound configuration if it turns out to be a parallel wound one?
Thx for helping guys.