Hi,

Now I'm too much confused seeing the opinions of many forums and webpage search.

I'll give a PCB layout in PDF format to my friend to print using his laser printer.

I've made the PCB in eagle and outputed a non-mirrored eps image to edit in photoshop.

Now,
Will I need to flip the image horizentally or vertically?

If I put it into a A4 paper size and then export to PDF, will the photoshop PDF export option scale the images?

Will I need any other options to do ya?

 

Hi. I found this site recently and seems right up your alley:
http://www.electricstuff.co.uk/pcbs.html
This paper is from a writer who prefers UV exposure to toner transfer before etching the board.

In short, if the traces are going on the bottom (solder side), use the output as produced. If this is going on top (component side), mirror the image when you print it out, i.e., flip horizontally. The idea is to keep the toner or ink up against the board's surface. Most printer control/set up software have this feature available as a check box.
As far as the printer settings, you'll have to A. find how to set the printer, laser or ink jet, to produce the heaviest reliable medium application, and B. experiment to ensure the print job comes out to scale.

Later!
kenjj

 

One way to ensure it's right is to place some text on the side you are printing (the blue bottom layer in this case). When the image is in Photoshop this writing should be mirror image.

Another thing is when you place the image on the clipboard, Eagle doesn't appear to place the correct dpi information with it and when it gets imported into photoshop it is the wrong size. How I get around this is to export to the clipboard at 600dpi and then change the dpi in photoshop to suit. This may only be a problem with my setup as I use a very old version of PS.

Mike.

 

In just a few line((FOR TONER TRANSFER METHOD ONLY))

I think I always have to mirror the solder side image.
But I don't know what to do in case of component side. I think it would also be mirrored


I have Ferric Chloride Anhydrous; is there be any problem when etching with it?

 

In my experience with Eagle, it's the opposite. Mirror the component side and not the solder side. The Eagle board layout presents the view as if you were looking down through the PCB, with the component side closest to you.

Wear gloves. That stuff will stain almost anything, including your skin, and it will etch many metals. Be careful how you dispose of it. Don't pour it in the kitchen sink. Wearing eye protection isn't a bad idea either.

Make sure it's warm--not hot, just warm--when you etch with it. That's probably less important in India than it is here in Canada--I expect it's warmer there anyway.


Torben

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Hi Torben,

absolutely correct! Printing the solder side it appears with the toner on top which will be in direct contact with the PCB to expose. Mirroring the solder side you must flip the print and get distortion, refraction and stray exposure because of the fact that artificial light is NOT parallel (only sunlight is parallel). Depending on the thickness of the film fine traces might get overexposed from all sides allowing them to deminish during the developing process. (0.5mm film thickness are enough to ruin the board.)

The component side must be mirrored for that reason.

Hans

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Well, I agree with you torben.

See what happens....

 

It doesn't matter which side you are printing (or which software) if you use the simple rule of "put text on layer and it should be mirror image in Photoshop".

Saying that, for Eagle, Torben is correct.

Mike.

 

Eagle can flip, mirror, and scale the image from the printing dialog box. Why use photoshop at all ?

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Good point. I just tried it and Eagle prints exactly what I require. I can't remember why but sometime in the past I couldn't get Eagle to print what I needed. Maybe my problem got fixed in one of the revisions.

Anyway, it will save me a lot of time.

Mike.

 

I wanna know what is the actual quantity of mixing FeCl3 hydrous with water?
the sokubility of FeCl3 in water is quite high: 92 g/100 ml (20 °C). So, will I take 100 ml water? is it too much for etching only one 9"*4" board?

 

I'm afraid I use premixed etchant at the moment so I can't help you with that.

Here is one link I found which mentions it, though: http://www.retroleum.co.uk/makingPCBs.html

Scroll down to section 5 where he talks about etching the board.

I have no idea if this guy is right about the mixing, but it seems to fit with other things I've read. Again, I've never done it so someone else will have to give you more information.


Good luck,

Torben

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