I have a problem with a Metabo drill.
It seems like it is dead, how can I check it, or eventually fix the problem.
It seems that the motor is ok, but something with electronics has gone wrong.
Is anyone familiar with these types of problems?
I mean it's great , and expensive drill, so I would not like to throw it away because of one thyristor.

 

I've no knowledge on this particular product, but in my experence with many other types of product, if the speed control has blown it's very often because the motor is faulty anyway. Repairing the speed control makes it work for a split second, then it blows again.

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Have you tested the motor without the speed control?

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I Measured the stator resistance (about 200 Ohms), and I there's also a connection betwen brushes

 

Start at the begining..
1> power at the wall socket
2> fuse in the plug
3> is the finger switch on the grip working
4> internal fuse - lot of these power tools have a thermal fuse fitted

Question: what were you doing with it prior to it being dead?

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It may seem like a good idea at the time , but never stir your cold coffee with a soldering iron.

 

What Voltage should I measure over the stator, and what over the armature?

 

Is it ok to measur 120 Ohms on the stator coil?

 

Price out a new speed control.
It will probably be half the price of a new drill, plus you run the chance of it immediately blowing out if the problem is in the motor.

 

It's OK to measure it, but it proves nothing.

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Only that the coil isn't open circuit but that doesn't mean it's healthy, it could have afew shorted turns and you wouldn't know.

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@Panchoo
Please see the condition of the carbon brushes. after prolonged usage, these get ground, and need replacement. this might also be an issue.

If the electronic circuitry is not with many components, you may reverse engineer and draw up a schematic. Try supporting with close shots of electronic portions with clear focus and upload the JPGs. It might be an exercise for you, and perhaps a solution can be discussed with some details made available.

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You might try cut and pasting the following lines into the Google search box

"class action" metabo
or
warranty metabo
or
recall metabo

This speed control or your drill might be covered. It may have design defect.

 

Or maybe the drill decided it doesn't like your face any more and wants to retire.
In such a case it would be best to buy a new one.
But remember, do not buy the most expensive thing on the market, shop in the middle.
You won't be disappointed.

 

....If you can get speed and torque specs for your candidate drill, you can figure out how many dollars per watt or per inch-pound of torque or per RPM of speed you are getting for the price you pay.
....If you go cordless, you can also figure out how many dollars per watt-hour you are getting.

....The manufacturers have already done this calculation and determined on which parameter they will compete with each other.
....For two Ridgid and Dewalt drills, these numbers came out within pennies of each other.

....Reliability numbers (MTBF) are harder to obtain.

 

Hi Pancho Villa,

I strongly hope for you that you kept the Metabo instruction manual in a safe place.

At the end of the manual you'll find every spare part with its name and part number.

When ordering name the part number + the machine type and its serial number.

Even if the machine was converted into a rotary saw the motor is strong enough to survive a standstill in wet wood. However the control device (trigger pot and circuitry) will in most case not withstand that torture and burn up the triac.

Ordering the control block it would be wise to order brushes as well. The old ones will be damaged even if there is no visible damage.

If Metabo policies haven't changed there is a good chance to get original parts. (Metabo normally delivers spare parts for a period of 25 years after marketing a machine.)

Hans

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