If its in an airtight bag the crystals will last a very long time.

In liquid state it has a much shorter shelf life.

A datasheet I have say unopened Sodium Persulphate has a shelf life of 3 years while opened Sodium Persulphate has a shelf life of 1 month.

I've also got a datasheet to say that Ammonium Persulphate has a shelf life of 1 year in crystal form.

 

My 1KG bottle is over a year old, maybe closer to two. It still works. I do not know if it etches any slower because I did not time it when new. When it is nearly gone I may get a new supply and run a test with two identical boards to see if the old is slower.

Still good stuff but stocking up might be a bad idea.

__________________
search engine for electronic parts
Junebug USB PIC programmer kit., USB Bit Wacker, 3v0's Homepage
The 15 Minute Printed Circuit Board! (+drill time)

 

CAN somebody please tell me; what amount of Ferric Chloride (anhydrous) to be mixed with what amount of water for etching one 9cm x 5cm board.
Please!!!!!

 

The size of the board is not a good indicator. If the copper is twice as heavy it will use up twice as much etchant. If the copper is to be mostly etched away it will use up much more solution then if most of the copper remains.

Determine how much solution it will take to cover the board or fill you etching tank. Your choice.

Earlier Torben linked to a page that pointed out 100 grams of crystals per 200ml of water.

Just do it.

__________________
search engine for electronic parts
Junebug USB PIC programmer kit., USB Bit Wacker, 3v0's Homepage
The 15 Minute Printed Circuit Board! (+drill time)

 

Hi,
check out here a nice tutorial on making pcb using the etchant ferric chloride, a laser printer and an iron!! really effective one, check it out:

http://electrons.psychogenic.com/mod.../pcb_howto.php

it's simple n useful for do-it-yourself kind of projects. Recently i tested it by making a single layer ATmega32 experiment card. it took 2 hours for etching (i didn't steer the liquid frequently). U can check my board design here:

http://dharmanitech.blogspot.com/200...rters-kit.html

Enjoy!
-------------------------
http://dharmanitech.blogspot.com

 

Hi, well, you don't worry about that, thats easy just fill the water first and then add small pieces of ferric chloride till the mix gets darker, when you just stop seeing thru the mix stop adding the pellets.

What helps most this kind of mixes is a little of heat and shaking a little.

Warning: That stuff is toxic !!! And it damages most clothes, others can be clean with anti ferric chloride.

__________________
Best Regards,
Tiago Silva.

Visit my personal webpage: http://www.tiagosilva.eu/

 

Can somebody please answer to this:

For toner transfer method; can I take print from the shops called "digital printing shops" I mean can I make a toner transfer from professional digital print on some glossy paper??

 

It is hard to tell. Most often clay is used to make the paper glossy. If there is enough clay the paper will release well enough for it to work. There is no way to tell unless you or another person has tried that specific paper.

EDIT: You may want to have them print the image on each type of glossy paper they stock. That is if they stock more then one.

__________________
search engine for electronic parts
Junebug USB PIC programmer kit., USB Bit Wacker, 3v0's Homepage
The 15 Minute Printed Circuit Board! (+drill time)

 

I Knew that.I wanted to know can I use the copies, which were not printed from laser printer but was printed from online or offline professional digital photo printing stores.like http://www.printcamp.com/aboutbuyprints.php
or http://www.picsquare.com/ or http://www.itasveer.com/

 

It is as simple as this. If the pictures are not printed with a laser printer or copier there will be no toner to transfer.

I would think these places use photographic paper for printing photos.

__________________
search engine for electronic parts
Junebug USB PIC programmer kit., USB Bit Wacker, 3v0's Homepage
The 15 Minute Printed Circuit Board! (+drill time)

 

If always used FE3CL, if I remember that right.
I always also used positive 20 to get the tracks onto the board. Spray positive20 on whole board, allow ample time to dry in a dark place, I used to print two copies of the tracks on transparencies using ink-jet, then stick that to the board with the help of few drops water and some cellotape.
I would just use the sun for my UV exposure for the po20, luckily in RSA here, then caustic soda to eat the exposed po20, and then your FE3CL bath.
I used to heat mine using a fish tank heater, and put some bubbles through it using a fish tank air pump as well with a specially modified pipe to make many small bubbles to run across the face of the board.

Yes, I know, tedious process, but I believed it to be cost effective enough to do so. Never knew at the time how toxic the stuff was, just that it stained everything, and ate everything metal.

 

FE3CL.....is it ferric chloride aka FeCl3 ?

I used FeCl3 anhydrous, when mixing the solution, I very small drop spalshed in to my one eye as I just forget to wear eyewears.

There was not too much pain as the concentration of fecl3 in the water was too low. my mother washed my eyes with a lots of complain about my neglehency.

Now, I'm fine.

No fear, FeCl3 will do nothing if you know what is it. It is not too dangerous as I thought. Though TAKE PRECAUTIONS.

 

Yip, I thought I might have it wrong. As indicated.
I never had any problems though, but discarding the stuff was also very difficult, it seemed the norm was to flush it down the tubes using plenty water.

 

Don't know how much use this would be to you guys but I have emailed my electronics teacher regarding the method and equipment he uses.
It will be pretty safe as it is used in schools by 13 year olds.
I will post his response if it is of any use when I get it.