Equipment for Hobbyists - Page 7 - Electronic Circuits Projects Diagrams Free

**3v0** · 19th June 2008, 09:09 PM

That is not liquid flux it is solder paste used to hold and solder surface mount parts to PCBs.

Everyone has their own idea on how to make PCBs at home. What I use and teach to my students is the toner transfer system from httP://www.pulsarprofx.com. I recomend you use the system with a laminator rather then a clothes iron. The transfer paper they sell will transfer 100% of the toner to the copper. You etch is as good as your laser printer. A photo sensitive method may give better results but this has been good enough.

I use a less nasty etchant called Sodium Persulphate from MG-Chemicals. 4101-1KG It does not rot holes in you lungs or stain the bathroom sink. If you have a real fume hood and a dedicated etching setup Feric Chloride is OK. I will not go back. When the etchan is spend I let it evaporate and store the crystals. When I get a gallon of them (some years) I will take them to a recycling drop.

hugoender · 20th June 2008, 02:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3v0

That is not liquid flux it is solder paste used to hold and solder surface mount parts to PCBs.

I use a less nasty etchant called Sodium Persulphate from MG-Chemicals. 4101-1KG It does not rot holes in you lungs or stain the bathroom sink. If you have a real fume hood and a dedicated etching setup Feric Chloride is OK. I will not go back. When the etchan is spend I let it evaporate and store the crystals. When I get a gallon of them (some years) I will take them to a recycling drop.

Oh wow I feel retarded now. lol Oh well... I guess I have a tube of solder paste...

As far as using Sodium Persulphate instead of Feric Chloride... what are the pros and cons? There must be a downside to using Sodium Persulphate since everyone seems to suggest using Feric Chloride.

I do not own a laminating machine but I do own an iron... for general simple circuits... isn't it okay just to iron the toner onto the copper?

Edit: Isn't it Ammonium Persulphate not Sodium Persulphate?

**3v0** · 20th June 2008, 02:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hugoender

As far as using Sodium Persulphate instead of Ferric Chloride... what are the pros and cons? There must be a downside to using Sodium Persulphate since everyone seems to suggest using Ferric Chloride.

Maybe the cost. It is about $20 kg. Having said that I make more boards the most hobby types and I am still on my first kg. Both do the same job. Ferric Chloride has a lot of momentum in that it has been chemical of choice for a long time. It is not surprising to see that most people still suggest it.

Quote:

I do not own a laminating machine but I do own an iron... for general simple circuits... isn't it okay just to iron the toner onto the copper?

There are many people who do just fine with a clothes iron. There are also many people who do not. With the laminator you do not have to figure out how hot to make it or worry about how hard to press down. There is a tips section on the pulsar website. One guy suggested using a wood dowel rod under the PCB when ironing. It simulates the action of a laminator. I have not tried it but it sounds good. There may also be a section on how to set iron temperature.

hugoender · 20th June 2008, 03:18 PM

Going back to the PICs... I am debating whether to get the PICKit2 Starter Kit ($49.99) or just get the PICKit2 Programmer by itself ($34.99). What do you guys think? Is the start kit worth the extra $15.00 or can I learn just the same without it?

speakerguy79 · 20th June 2008, 09:22 PM

For $15 extra the board that comes with the starter kit is nice.

hugoender · 4th August 2008, 05:37 AM

Well I made my own dual power supply and logic probe. Saved a lot of money not having to buy those two things... although I do not think a logic probe is necessary. A multimeter can carry out the same function.

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19th June 2008, 09:09 PM	(permalink)
3v0	That is not liquid flux it is solder paste used to hold and solder surface mount parts to PCBs. Everyone has their own idea on how to make PCBs at home. What I use and teach to my students is the toner transfer system from httP://www.pulsarprofx.com. I recomend you use the system with a laminator rather then a clothes iron. The transfer paper they sell will transfer 100% of the toner to the copper. You etch is as good as your laser printer. A photo sensitive method may give better results but this has been good enough. I use a less nasty etchant called Sodium Persulphate from MG-Chemicals. 4101-1KG It does not rot holes in you lungs or stain the bathroom sink. If you have a real fume hood and a dedicated etching setup Feric Chloride is OK. I will not go back. When the etchan is spend I let it evaporate and store the crystals. When I get a gallon of them (some years) I will take them to a recycling drop. __________________ search engine for electronic parts Junebug USB PIC programmer kit., USB Bit Wacker, Homepage The 15 Minute Printed Circuit Board! (+drill time)

20th June 2008, 03:18 PM	(permalink)
hugoender	Going back to the PICs... I am debating whether to get the PICKit2 Starter Kit ($49.99) or just get the PICKit2 Programmer by itself ($34.99). What do you guys think? Is the start kit worth the extra $15.00 or can I learn just the same without it?

20th June 2008, 09:22 PM	(permalink)
speakerguy79	For $15 extra the board that comes with the starter kit is nice.

4th August 2008, 05:37 AM	(permalink)
hugoender	Well I made my own dual power supply and logic probe. Saved a lot of money not having to buy those two things... although I do not think a logic probe is necessary. A multimeter can carry out the same function. __________________ My Blog: My electronic circuits and other endeavours.