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| General Electronics Chat This forum is for general chat about electronics, eg: Dont know what a part does? Dont know how to read a circuit? Want to get an opinion? |
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| Well here is my supply, I hope it can inspire you to make yours. Consists of: beautiful ATX supply, a simple LM317 for the variable output and an old stereo transformer, to get 12VDC unregulated voltage, all inside an old dremel box Don't mind the spanish text, I made it for my friends (who doesn't know what a power supply is) Engallamientos de La Rotta: Fuente de Poder
__________________ La Rotta Last edited by Menticol; 19th June 2008 at 06:09 AM. | |
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| looks nice but according the specs you give (5 volt 22 Amp) than your wirering is a bit on the thin side Robert-Jan | |
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| oh yes you're totally right, I use it to power small circuits, never reached more than a few amps (except on short circuits, explosions, etc hehe) I have read an article about upgrading a "cheap" ATX PSU, soldering new thicker wire from the PCB and upgrading components. Don't know how cost/effective can this technique be.
__________________ La Rotta Last edited by Menticol; 19th June 2008 at 06:22 AM. | |
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| There is a difference between an adjustable iron and a temperature controlled iron. An adjustable iron can be turned up or down but is open loop. A temperature controlled iron has a sensor that keeps the iron within a few degrees of the set temperature. The nice thing about the temperature controlled irons is that you do not have to run them as hot. When you start a joint and head is pulled from the tip the iron kicks in and keeps the temperature stable. An adjustable iron is easier on components and less prone to lifting foil from a PCB. The tip is cooler when idle and does not degrade as fast. I set my iron at about 260C. MPJA is up.
__________________ search engine for electronic partsJunebug USB PIC programmer kit., USB Bit Wacker, 3v0's Homepage The 15 Minute Printed Circuit Board! (+drill time) | |
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| Good explanation. Maybe they should have called them thermal homeostatic irons. Sorry... Bad joke | |
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| Okay so I am going with: 1) RH63 Solder 1lb Spool, .031'' Diam, 63/37 ($15.90). 2)CSI Deluxe Station w/Analog Display, CSI-STATION1A ($39.95). Now what size desoldering braid should I use for thru hole components? Also, does brand really matter? Should I buy Kester as opposed to the generic ZD brand stated above from Circuit Specialists? What do you guys think of this soldering station? Circuit Specialists Inc. - Auto-Temp Electronic Temperature Controlled Soldering Station (379UL) | |
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| Oh another thing... what tools should I get? I am planning on getting this free tool set with my order: Circuit Specialists Inc. - Promotional Special But I need wire-strippers now. Also, should I buy helping hands? | |
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| A pound is a lot of solder. .031 or .032 is a good size for a lot of work. You are going to want a smaller diameter solder for fine work. I use Kester .015 in 63/37, it melts at a bit lower temperature. You can get it with an extra large flux core. Mine has the standard flux core and I find that it works better when I apply flux with a pen first. Maybe the larger flux core is a good idea? Liquid flux of some sort is handy. I use a flux pen but that is what I ran into first. Be sure to get on that does not require cleaning. A no clean flux. I find the solder braid that is finer (smaller denser wires) works better. Check Mouser of DigiKey if you can not get what you need from CS.
__________________ search engine for electronic partsJunebug USB PIC programmer kit., USB Bit Wacker, 3v0's Homepage The 15 Minute Printed Circuit Board! (+drill time) | |
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| I use the larger flux core Kester solder and I still find that extra flux helps. Flux just makes everything 'work' better. | |
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| I want to thank all of you for your tremendous help. I really appreciate it. | |
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| What do you guys think of this desoldering wick: Circuit Specialists Inc. - Super Wick Desoldering Braid #3 Green .075'' 25 ft (443) And again I ask...does brand matter? Should I stick with Kester? Last edited by hugoender; 19th June 2008 at 07:13 PM. | |
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While I am here a note about solder braid. It often comes in a special spool to keep it from oxidizing. Oxidized brade does not work well. For the most part you do not need to worry about this. Just advoid pulling out a bunch and not using it.
__________________ search engine for electronic partsJunebug USB PIC programmer kit., USB Bit Wacker, 3v0's Homepage The 15 Minute Printed Circuit Board! (+drill time) | ||
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| Well I have a 1lb spool of .032" diameter 63/37 kester solder and a tube of kester tsf tacky flux. The only thing is that I do not know if the flux is No Clean or not. It does not say on the tube and I cannot find the item on the Kester page because the tube does not have a TSF model number. Oh well, I cannot complain since I got it for free | |
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| Nevermind, I think I found which one I have... it looks exactly like the big fat tube in the middle of this picture: Kester 57-0000-1225 - No-Clean TSF-6502 Paste, 30 Gram Syringe Man flux is pretty expensive! I just saved a lot of money. Now I just need a syringe tip so I can apply the flux in a small area. Last edited by hugoender; 19th June 2008 at 08:15 PM. | |
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| Now to make my own printed circuits boards... what chemical is best? I am looking at this: Circuit Specialists Inc. - Ferric Chloride [Drop Shipped by UPS Ground Only] (415-4L) Is this etching chemical alright? Or is there something better? Also, one thing I have not found anywhere is how to dispose of the chemical once you are done etching. I believe the chemical is reusable but once you have used it enough times, how do you dispose of it properly? | |
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