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Old 31st May 2008, 03:54 PM   (permalink)
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Originally Posted by erosennin View Post
Sure they are if you want to sit there with a pot doing the adjustment manually, and end up with an inaccurate, inconsistent result.

davidbbal13... Take everyone's advice and either do it with an opamp or a 12series pic... This forum is full of people who are quite knowledgeable, I myself have not reached this level yet, but don't discount their advice just because you are set on a 555.
Is this some form of assignment? That you are forced to utilise a 555 timer.

If you are set in your ways, look at this schematic. If you are just using 1LED you will not need the FET and related hardware down that end....
im not "set" on the 555 my friend made it and i wanted a schematic but my friend is getting his second round of chemo today so i cant talk to him
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Old 31st May 2008, 03:55 PM   (permalink)
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Originally Posted by AllVol View Post
By its very nature, the 555 timer produces a pulse at its output, either astable or one-shot, depending on component structure. The voltage and current supply at the output is a function of the voltage used to power the device.

PMW (pulse width modulation) is the varying of the percent of on and off times of each pulse cycle. It has nothing to do with the original output values. Therefore, PMW in itself will have no effect on the brightness of a LED connected via current-limiting resistor to the output.

A quick way to see PMW in operation is to set up the 555 to produce a blinking LED with a frequency of some four or five flashes per second.

Then, connect the ends of a potentiometer to V+ and ground. Connect the wiper to pin 5 of the 555. You now have voltage controlled PMW. As you vary the pot, the LED will blink slower or faster, depending on the voltage supplied through the pot.

When the LED blinks slowly, it is because the high portion of the squarewave pulse is very narrow with respect to the off portion of the cycle. Conversely, the LED will blink faster when the on portion is greater (wider) than the off time.

Hope this answers some of your questions.
for the pot you can just do that with a pot for R1 or R 2 put i am sure i can do something with that.
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Old 31st May 2008, 04:01 PM   (permalink)
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Originally Posted by davidbball13 View Post
for the pot you can just do that with a pot for R1 or R 2 put i am sure i can do something with that.
Slight correction:

If you simply pot R1 or R2 you aren't causing PWM, you are merely varying the RC component, thus the frequency. Potting pin 5 actually varies the duty cycle, resulting in PWM. Granted, with the use of a couple of diodes and hit-or-miss RC, one can produce PWM off pins 6-7, but that just adds more components.


At any rate, none of the above will have any effect on the brightness of the LED. That is a function of the current you place through the LED. Remember I=E/R.
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Old 31st May 2008, 04:29 PM   (permalink)
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yeah.......math
i need some new 9 volt batterys because all of my circuits are dim and quite
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Old 31st May 2008, 04:49 PM   (permalink)
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Originally Posted by davidbball13 View Post
yeah.......math
i need some new 9 volt batterys because all of my circuits are dim and quite
Why don't you order out a 12 volt Wall Wart, an LM7809 regulator, a couple of 1000 uF electrolytics and a 3.5 mm power receptacle, and build a 9-volt power supply for your experiments.

You could also get an LM7805 with caps, and put it on a seperate board for your TTL digital projects.

Or, forget the five volts for TTL and use only CMOS 4000 series ICs with your 9 volt supply.

You'll windup saving money versus the cost of batteries.
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Old 31st May 2008, 08:06 PM   (permalink)
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If you want your batteries to last longer then don't use a 555 timer, use the CMOS 7555.

Here's the circuit I was describing a couple of posts ago. U1 is a quad op-amp like the LM324 you could use a comparator like the LM339 but don't forget the pull-up resistors on the output.

U1A forms a Schmitt trigger oscillator oscillates at around 5 seconds per cycle; the fading rate is determined by R7 and C1.

U1B is exactly the same oscillator configuration as U1A but oscillates at around 250Hz which is the PWM frequency.

U1C acts as a comparator and compares the voltage on C1 and C2 and lights D1 if the voltage on C2 is greater than C1.

Notice how I've used fairly large resistor values? This helps reduce the current consumption and save battery life.
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Old 31st May 2008, 09:49 PM   (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllVol View Post
Why don't you order out a 12 volt Wall Wart, an LM7809 regulator, a couple of 1000 uF electrolytics and a 3.5 mm power receptacle, and build a 9-volt power supply for your experiments.

You could also get an LM7805 with caps, and put it on a seperate board for your TTL digital projects.

Or, forget the five volts for TTL and use only CMOS 4000 series ICs with your 9 volt supply.

You'll windup saving money versus the cost of batteries.
i made one i just need more perf board untill i make another one my old one was crap and did not work well
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Old 31st May 2008, 09:50 PM   (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Hero999 View Post
If you want your batteries to last longer then don't use a 555 timer, use the CMOS 7555.

Here's the circuit I was describing a couple of posts ago. U1 is a quad op-amp like the LM324 you could use a comparator like the LM339 but don't forget the pull-up resistors on the output.

U1A forms a Schmitt trigger oscillator oscillates at around 5 seconds per cycle; the fading rate is determined by R7 and C1.

U1B is exactly the same oscillator configuration as U1A but oscillates at around 250Hz which is the PWM frequency.

U1C acts as a comparator and compares the voltage on C1 and C2 and lights D1 if the voltage on C2 is greater than C1.

Notice how I've used fairly large resistor values? This helps reduce the current consumption and save battery life.
i know about the 7555 its better for lower voltages but i dont need lower voltages i normally use a wallwort with a LM7805 but it bit the dust
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Old 31st May 2008, 10:13 PM   (permalink)
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That's not true, the 7555 isn't better at lower voltages.

At low voltages the output current is reduced drastically because the output MOSFETs won't pass much current with lower gate voltages.

7555s are just better as far as power consumption is concerned - look at the datasheets and compare how little current the 7555 uses compared to the 555.
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