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Old 21st April 2008, 08:34 AM   (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torben
Morning!

Sorry, I meant the constructed circuit on the breadboard.


Torben
You probably cant see it for the 'smoke'....
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Old 21st April 2008, 01:45 PM   (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sammy004
Hey guys thanks for looking after me but I didn't ask for safety 101, I just wanted to know if that is the right pot or not, and are the CONNECTION on the right points not what they look like.
It would be irresponsible and negligent to not inform someone that their circuit was potentially dangerous and could kill them and or cause property damage. It was obvious from the photo that you're not an electrician.
Working with low voltage devices (<10V, <1A) is generally considered safe, but working with 110VAC or higher often requires certification or at the least an apprenticeship.

Some folks seem to think because they saw something on the web or in these forums it's all good. Take a look at the 220V 555 burglar alarm thread, the OP blamed the forum members for not informing him it wouldn't work; who in their right mind would build it in the first place. Every one here said it was a bad design, guess we should have added a poor one too.

What course combines C++ with mains electrical anyway? If it's not a course then sign up for some formal night school on electricity if it's a hobby. Else stay away from your power lines.

Are you using an isolation transformer?
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Old 21st April 2008, 05:41 PM   (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueroomelectronics
It would be irresponsible and negligent to not inform someone that their circuit was potentially dangerous and could kill them and or cause property damage. It was obvious from the photo that you're not an electrician.
Working with low voltage devices (<10V, <1A) is generally considered safe, but working with 110VAC or higher often requires certification or at the least an apprenticeship.
Well actually Mr.Blueroom I have been doing house wiring for the past 10 years so I know what it is like and how it feels like to have a little bit of energy hit you (happened twice in 10 years). Had this been a 220-240 volt circuit then s**** it I would never come close to it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by blueroomelectronics
Some folks seem to think because they saw something on the web or in these forums it's all good. Take a look at the 220V 555 burglar alarm thread, the OP blamed the forum members for not informing him it wouldn't work; who in their right mind would build it in the first place. Everyone here said it was a bad design, guess we should have added a poor one too.
Why didn't you?

Quote:
Originally Posted by blueroomelectronics
What course combines C++ with mains electrical anyway? If it's not a course then sign up for some formal night school on electricity if it's a hobby. Else stay away from your power lines.?
And who says I'm combining C++ with mains electrical? This project is on a totally different side of the area, and C++ is a totally different item I just completed my Computer science degree and spending 5 years in school...I think I should know what is combined in C++

Quote:
Originally Posted by blueroomelectronics
Are you using an isolation transformer?
Yes I am should I be?

If I missunderstood anybody I apologize.
Thank you

Last edited by sammy004; 21st April 2008 at 05:46 PM.
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Old 21st April 2008, 05:47 PM   (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericgibbs
You probably cant see it for the 'smoke'....
What Smoke???

Last edited by sammy004; 21st April 2008 at 05:50 PM.
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Old 21st April 2008, 05:51 PM   (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sammy004
What Smoke???
Hi Sammy,
Chill, its just a little humour, no offence intended.

On that pot, one of the end terminals has to be connected to the centre terminal [wiper].

The end you choose to connect will determine which way the pot dims the light, CW or CCW,...OK.

Do you follow,?
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Old 21st April 2008, 06:06 PM   (permalink)
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Is this project for fun or a school project? At least take the effort and practice good wire splicing techniques. Does the wire you used look anything like the wire your home is wired with? You have the common sense to use an isolation transformer that's good, but you seem to have very little 110VAC electrical experience. Take a course, they teach this stuff almost everywhere even if it's just to get the basics. Your local library will also have plenty of books on home wiring, worth a look at the very least.

From wikipedia on Solderless Breadboards.
Quote:
A modern solderless breadboard consists of a perforated block of plastic with numerous tin plated phosphor bronze spring clips under the perforations. The spacing between the clips (lead pitch) is typically 0.1" (2.54 mm). Integrated circuits (ICs) in dual in-line packages (DIPs) can be inserted to straddle the centerline of the block. Interconnecting wires and the leads of discrete components (such as capacitors, resistors, inductors, etc.) can be inserted into the remaining free holes to complete the circuit topology. Typically the spring clips are rated for 1 Ampere at 5 Volt and 0.333 Ampere at 15 Volt (5 Watt).
As for the "Electronics for You" burglar alarm, you'd think the publishers would have the savvy to test their articles. The OP should have written them about it.

As for the smoke... give it a chance, put enough current / voltage through those breadboards and they will arc, probably already are. Over time the contacts will pit and the electricity will start looking for a shorter path as the resistance increases. Puddles o fun.

If this IS a school project STOP it's a bad one
If this isn't and you need a light dimmer, you're in BC you can get em anywhere for a few dollars.
If you're trying to learn electricity then learn the basics first.
If you're trying to burn your house down then proceed, don't expect your insurance company to cover it though. Not really CSA or UL approved

PS never trust any electronic projects on the Aaron cake site. It's a bit of a joke round here.
http://www.aaroncake.net/circuits/dimmer.asp
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Last edited by blueroomelectronics; 21st April 2008 at 06:09 PM.
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Old 21st April 2008, 06:25 PM   (permalink)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ericgibbs
Hi Sammy,
Chill, its just a little humour, no offence intended.

On that pot, one of the end terminals has to be connected to the centre terminal [wiper].

The end you choose to connect will determine which way the pot dims the light, CW or CCW,...OK.

Do you follow,?
Thanks alot Eric do you think if I just get the right Pot it will be easier.
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Old 21st April 2008, 06:37 PM   (permalink)
Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by blueroomelectronics
Is this project for fun or a school project? At least take the effort and practice good wire splicing techniques. Does the wire you used look anything like the wire your home is wired with? You have the common sense to use an isolation transformer that's good, but you seem to have very little 110VAC electrical experience. Take a course, they teach this stuff almost everywhere even if it's just to get the basics. Your local library will also have plenty of books on home wiring, worth a look at the very least.

From wikipedia on Solderless Breadboards.

As for the "Electronics for You" burglar alarm, you'd think the publishers would have the savvy to test their articles. The OP should have written them about it.

As for the smoke... give it a chance, put enough current / voltage through those breadboards and they will arc, probably already are. Over time the contacts will pit and the electricity will start looking for a shorter path as the resistance increases. Puddles o fun.

If this IS a school project STOP it's a bad one
If this isn't and you need a light dimmer, you're in BC you can get em anywhere for a few dollars.
If you're trying to learn electricity then learn the basics first.
If you're trying to burn your house down then proceed, don't expect your insurance company to cover it though. Not really CSA or UL approved

PS never trust any electronic projects on the Aaron cake site. It's a bit of a joke round here.
http://www.aaroncake.net/circuits/dimmer.asp

BLA BLA BLA BLA BLA BLA.......ARE YOU DONE YET?
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Old 21st April 2008, 06:44 PM   (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sammy004
Thanks alot Eric do you think if I just get the right Pot it will be easier.
Hi.
I would ensure that the pot is rated for mains use, also I prefer plastic shafts.
Be sure to earth the metal wall switch internal casing, when you put the dimmer into service.

Dimmers for Halogen are different from the standard Tungsten.
Also you may need a simple mains filter.

As you may know, shop bought dimmers upto 250W are quite cheap have you considered buying one.?
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Old 21st April 2008, 06:49 PM   (permalink)
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Sammy,

What wattage are you wanting to control with this? What wattage is the light you're testing with?


Torben
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Old 21st April 2008, 06:59 PM   (permalink)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ericgibbs
Hi.
I would ensure that the pot is rated for mains use, also I prefer plastic shafts.
Be sure to earth the metal wall switch internal casing, when you put the dimmer into service.

Dimmers for Halogen are different from the standard Tungsten.
Also you may need a simple mains filter.

As you may know, shop bought dimmers upto 250W are quite cheap have you considered buying one.?
I couldn't find the one I need I have a pole light and all the ones I seen were for a house wall switch. but maybe if I look hard I might find one.
Thanks
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Old 21st April 2008, 07:02 PM   (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torben
Sammy,

What wattage are you wanting to control with this? What wattage is the light you're testing with?


Torben
It is a 50 watt bulb.
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Old 21st April 2008, 07:31 PM   (permalink)
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Radio Shack X10 stuff have wall dimmers. About $20

Won't work on the new compact fluorescent bulbs though, Canada is phasing out old incandescent bulbs.
http://www.oee.nrcan.gc.ca/energysta....cfm#phase-out
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Old 21st April 2008, 07:35 PM   (permalink)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by blueroomelectronics
Radio Shack X10 stuff have wall dimmers. About $20

Won't work on the new compact fluorescent bulbs though, Canada is phasing out old incandescent bulbs.
http://www.oee.nrcan.gc.ca/energysta....cfm#phase-out
don't need a wall dimmer IT"S a pole light in the living room.
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Old 21st April 2008, 07:41 PM   (permalink)
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Ok here you go, $6 on eBay.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/X10-Home-Automati...742.m153.l1262
The controller will set you back $13
Still about $20 and remote control too.
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