press n peel troubles - Page 2 - Electronic Circuits Projects Diagrams Free

HerbertMunch · 24th February 2008, 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hero999

I like the photographic method too.
The method I use depends on the board I'm doing; for simple designs I use the transfer process and for detailed designs I use the photographic process.

that sounds about right to me, but id also use it if was doing multiple copies.

3v0,
a guarenteed laminator? sounds good. When i get my next student loan money, perhaps i will buy it.

With regards to the positive 20 spray, well ive got a cannister of it so i might as well experiment.

If i dry it correctly, do you think that my problem with the developer eating away everything would be solved?

thanks.
chris

Hero999 · 24th February 2008, 06:51 PM

I've never bothered with the spray. I always buy pre-sensitised boards for the photo method.

**3v0** · 24th February 2008, 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HerbertMunch

that sounds about right to me, but id also use it if was doing multiple copies.

3v0,
a guarenteed laminator? sounds good. When i get my next student loan money, perhaps i will buy it.

...
chris

Although I have not tried it there is a method where you put a dowel under the board and roll it while you iron. Sort of a poor man's laminator. See Pulsar site for info.

Code:

Pulsar Paper 3 cents per square inch
Surplus PCB  3 cents per square inch
-----------------------------------------
Total        6 cents per square inch

There is the up front cost of the printer and laminator but they last a long time and the printer can be used as a printer.

I am nearly at the end of my first pack of Pulsar paper. My total cost for the paper, printer, and laminator was about $250. I paid too much for my laminator.

There are people doing small production runs with the pulsar system. I only know what I read about it on their site.

There are several things that can be wrong with your photo process. I assume you searched the net for info and how-to's. Try PHOTO-ETCHING PCBs if you have not seen it. I did not read it extensively but it looks like the author is on the right track and uses the same photo resist.
I liked this part.

Quote:

Now it is time to Hoover out the shack with all the doors and windows closed. Seriously! I am not kidding, any traces of dust for the next stage will cause you to waste the expensive spray laquer we use. I ALWAYS Hoover the workshop, then I Hoover the inside of an old light-tight shoebox, paying attention to all the carboard seams and corners, even the lid. By this time the washed board should be completely dry. Lay the board inside the shoebox with the copper side up then continue with the hoover to make sure the board is free from dust.

Since it is a postive system the exposed area is removed. That should rule out under exposure. But maybe you are overdeveloping an under exposed board and it all comes off at once.

HerbertMunch · 25th February 2008, 01:01 AM

hi,
thanks for your advice.

I came across that site. I dont know how he achieves such good results!
i must be really bad at spraying.

Chris

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24th February 2008, 06:51 PM	(permalink)
Hero999	I've never bothered with the spray. I always buy pre-sensitised boards for the photo method. __________________ I also post at the following sites: http://www.stop-microsoft.org http://www.heated-debates.com Screen name: Aloone_Jonez

25th February 2008, 01:01 AM	(permalink)
HerbertMunch	hi, thanks for your advice. I came across that site. I dont know how he achieves such good results! i must be really bad at spraying. Chris