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| I am using a 12v output at 500 ma wall wart to charge a 12v 12ah SLA battery, does that sound like a good charger for the job? Does anyone have any calculations so I can figure out how long the charging might take using different chargers? Thanks. | |
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| Please do not make duplicate posts or threads, they do not increase your chance of a helpful response but only reduce it, as people get confused and can't always see what others have suggested in the other thread(s). If you have made this post or thread in error then please do not be offended. We get lots of people making duplicate threads under the misapprehension that it will increase their chance of a helpful response when in practice the reverse is true. A 12V wallwart will do the job but it will take awhile. Also if it's regulated and output never reaches 13.8V the the battery will never fully charge.
__________________ I also post at the following sites: http://www.stop-microsoft.org http://www.heated-debates.com Screen name: Aloone_Jonez Last edited by Hero999; 22nd June 2007 at 07:00 PM. | |
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| umm...... I only posted this once, in one sub-forum. If it got posted in another sub forum It wasnt by me. Ive been posting on forums for almost 10 years. The charger says it charges at 12v but its more like 11.5, should I switch to another charger that outputs slightly more that 12v? | |
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| There were two posts made, both by you but this forum does that every now and then, it isn't always the poster's fault. I reported the other thread to the moderator and it has been deleted. Yes, you need a minimum of 13.8V to fully charge a lead acid battery. The best way is to use a LM317 regulator. You could get 15V 1A mains adaptor then add an LM317 regulator on the output set to 13.8V.
__________________ I also post at the following sites: http://www.stop-microsoft.org http://www.heated-debates.com Screen name: Aloone_Jonez | |
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| Yep, deleted the duplicate. Moderator. | |
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| Oh, Could I get away with simply using an automotive battery charger instead of rigging up a LM317? Im not sure how to hook that up, I guess it cant be that hard, is it kinda like using a LM7805? but with a meter or somthing to see the output voltage? This battery is a SLA but not a auto battery, if that matters. | |
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| Yes, an automotive battery charger would be fine.
__________________ I also post at the following sites: http://www.stop-microsoft.org http://www.heated-debates.com Screen name: Aloone_Jonez | |
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| Cool, thanks. | |
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| I think this 12v, 500ma wall wart might be too much or defective, It was getting hot so I kept checking it and after a few hours the casing started to warp and almost come apart.... eek. Im not sure why that would be, it says "Floating Charger (To Recharge Sealed Lead Acid and Ni-Cd batteries)" The battery did charge but I cant imagine much since it was on for only 4 hours or so total. | |
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A car battery charger is NOT suitable for charging sealed lead acid SLA batteries. The charge voltage for an SLA must be limited to 13.8V for float charging and 14V for cyclic charging. Car battery chargers can have end point voltages over 15V, which would ruin your battery or worse, make it vent!. There are a number of circuits already on the forum for SLA chargers. An overnight charge rate of 1.5A at 13.8/14V will recharge a discharged [10.8V] , 12Ah battery, in good condition. The charge current input is not a 100% conversion to Ahr, allow only about 60% conversion efficiency. That means 12hrs at 1amp will not fully recharge a discharged 12Ahr battery, it will only be about 60% recharged.
__________________ Eric "Good enough is Perfect" PIC tutorials: Gramo's: www.digital-diy.net/ Bill's: www.blueroomelectronics.com/ Last edited by ericgibbs; 23rd June 2007 at 07:44 AM. | ||
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| Thanks for that information, I didn't know that, I incorrectly thought that all lead acid batteries had maximum voltages of 14V/
__________________ I also post at the following sites: http://www.stop-microsoft.org http://www.heated-debates.com Screen name: Aloone_Jonez | |
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The 'old' style car batteries could 'gas off' when over charged, usually when the charger voltage went upto 15 to 16Volts. Problem with the sealed lead acid, its really a 'gel' and being sealed, if they 'gas' too much the internal pressure can blow their safety vents.
__________________ Eric "Good enough is Perfect" PIC tutorials: Gramo's: www.digital-diy.net/ Bill's: www.blueroomelectronics.com/ | ||
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| Thanks for the info. No prob Hero, I didnt try the auto battery. I will have to look for some of charging circuits here because this wall wart got really hot and if I left it plugged in any longer it would have probably melted. I found these plans.... http://www.vt52.com/diy/myprojects/o...er/charger.htm I am a bit confused though, why would the input voltage be 18V? Why not design the circuit so that it starts from the main? Last edited by Nicksan; 23rd June 2007 at 04:47 PM. | |
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Sorry if its getting a little confusing. If I was selecting a transformer for that 1.2A charger circuit, I would choose a 18Vac. The LM317 regulator requires at least about a 3V difference between the input voltage and the output voltage. As you require about 14V to charge the battery this means the LM317 needs about 17Vdc input. The problem is with a lot of cheaper Wart psu's, is when they have to supply a small current their output voltage rises and when its a large current their output voltage falls. This is often referred to as 'regulation' Why not design the circuit so that it starts from the main? If you mean direct connection to the mains, it would not be isolated and could be a electrical shock hazard.
__________________ Eric "Good enough is Perfect" PIC tutorials: Gramo's: www.digital-diy.net/ Bill's: www.blueroomelectronics.com/ Last edited by ericgibbs; 23rd June 2007 at 05:25 PM. | ||
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