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Old 6th June 2007, 08:45 PM   (permalink)
Souper man
Red face First Time Making PCB: Suppliers, Hints, ETC

Its my first time making a pcb, well actually when I typed This it was etching, So I was Wondering:

What to get:
What to Use:
Suppliers of stuff:
Hints:
any other thing:

Also, where can I find really small drill bits, along with hints on IC holes
 
Old 6th June 2007, 09:03 PM   (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Souper man
along with hints on IC holes
Use round ones!
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Old 6th June 2007, 09:06 PM   (permalink)
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  • 1mm is good enough for most components.
  • SMT components can be good as you don't need to do much drilling, there again through hole can be good too (especially resistors) as you can lay many tracks underneath them.
    I normally use the toner transfer process with magazine paper for simple boards ant the photo process for complex boards that need a high degree of accuracy.
  • I haven't bought any PCB stuff for years, I got some sodium persulphate crystals from Maplins and some boards about eight years ago and for the most part it's lasted me, I have borrowed a few boads from college before I left though.
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Old 6th June 2007, 09:24 PM   (permalink)
Souper man
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Nigel: Oh! thats where I went wrong (ha ha)!

Hero: I am a super noob, so sodium persulphate and magazine paper could mean anything to me.

I AM JUST STARTING THIS TODAY LOL!
 
Old 6th June 2007, 09:25 PM   (permalink)
Souper man
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Also, it says to dump the ferric chloride down the toilet! Is this right?!?
 
Old 6th June 2007, 11:44 PM   (permalink)
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First, search this forum for threads about making PCBs, toner transfer, drill bits... We go through this about once a month, so plenty of good reading, some even a little amusing.

Search the web, there are at least 2 good sites with are almost totally dedicated to making PCBs at home, many good links to suppliers. More than you probably need to know.

Electronic Goldmine has carbide PCB bits, had some on sale a month ago 50-$29, if you have a drill press, likely a lifetime supply. In a dremel or regular drill, probably a year or two worth... Think the also had a small assorted size deal around $5, likely best to start with.

Anyway, no matter what method or tools you use, the number on all time, most important thing to remember... Clean the copper well, and keep your greasy fingers off it until it's done etching.
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Old 7th June 2007, 02:41 AM   (permalink)
Souper man
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I finished etching, and I made a simple LED flasher using a 555. It looks and works good. I think i am going to try PCB more often!
 
Old 7th June 2007, 03:49 AM   (permalink)
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Advanced Circuits always does a whiz-bang job for me
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Old 7th June 2007, 06:17 PM   (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Souper man
I finished etching, and I made a simple LED flasher using a 555. It looks and works good. I think i am going to try PCB more often!
What did you use to transfer the toner with? Magazine paper? I saw a tutorial on the internet and it does work as hero999 says. But the fellow mentioned taping it to a sheet of paper. That was where I went wrong, he also drops in it boiling water to remove the paper.
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Old 7th June 2007, 08:03 PM   (permalink)
Souper man
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i used perminent marker, but how do i use the magazine paper way? Do i use the same echant and eching process? if so, Plz tell me!
 
Old 7th June 2007, 09:24 PM   (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Souper man
Nigel: Oh! thats where I went wrong (ha ha)!

Hero: I am a super noob, so sodium persulphate and magazine paper could mean anything to me.
I use the following procedure for most of my boards:
  1. Print the design on to glosy magazine paper (the sort used for most magazines in newsagents) using a laser printer.
  2. Iron it on to the copper clad board; use the highest temperature setting and apply as much presure as you can.
  3. Soak it in cold water for about ten miniutes.
  4. Stick it in a tray of warm etching solution, I use Press 'n' Peel etch (a mixture of sodium persulphate/sodium bisulphate) and wait for it to finish etching.
  5. Scrub off the remaining toner using stel wool and soapy water.
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Old 7th June 2007, 10:35 PM   (permalink)
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Remember that you cannot fit a square pin into a circular hole if the hole has a diameter equal to one side of the pin.

And don't bother etching away all the copper on the PCB that's not needed unless it's in under or around an area that is sensitive to extra capacitance like clocks, etc. Wastes chemicals and causes waste. Just ground it- provides more stability and prevents your board from warping (the ratio of copper-plastic is more equal throughout the board).
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Old 8th June 2007, 02:11 AM   (permalink)
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dknguyen, I know you are right, there was a test on that when I was maybe 4 years old. Damn thing did not fit, but a bigger kid got his square peg in the round hole and his face was all red...

On a side note. If you use Eagle, go to the pad layer and use the poly tool and cover your open areas and leave the chucks of copper on the board and save etchant.
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Old 8th June 2007, 02:48 AM   (permalink)
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Name your ground GND then type in "polygon GND". It will prompt you to draw the polygon. Draw around the edges of the board and all the areas it fills will be connected to GND.

Use change ISOLATE to set the distance between the fill and other signals.

It will not fill till you use RATSNEST.

Once you do POLYGON GND you can not change the value of ISOLATE. You have to undo the POLYGON cmd and then change ISOLATE.

HTH
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Old 8th June 2007, 03:40 AM   (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hero999
I use the following procedure for most of my boards:
  1. Print the design on to glosy magazine paper (the sort used for most magazines in newsagents) using a laser printer.
  2. Iron it on to the copper clad board; use the highest temperature setting and apply as much presure as you can.
  3. Soak it in cold water for about ten miniutes.
  4. Stick it in a tray of warm etching solution, I use Press 'n' Peel etch (a mixture of sodium persulphate/sodium bisulphate) and wait for it to finish etching.
  5. Scrub off the remaining toner using stel wool and soapy water.
Must it be that kind of paper? Can normal document paper be used?
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