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Thread: Press-n-Peel PCB problem

  1. #76
    gaurav_sharma132 Newbie
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    ohh man that a very nice trick...Thnx for it first.

    Then simply put it on the copper clad and press it for 5-10 min???

    Magazine paper leave a good trace on copper clad after peeling it off ??


  2. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by gaurav_sharma132 View Post
    ohh man that a very nice trick...Thnx for it first.

    Then simply put it on the copper clad and press it for 5-10 min???

    Magazine paper leave a good trace on copper clad after peeling it off ??
    Press it with an iron, but 5 minutes seems too long. I think probably around 3 minutes, but I use a laminator, so have not done it this way for quite some time.

    Don't try to peel off the magazine paper though. Soak the thing in warm water, perhaps with a drop or two of soap, for a few minutes. It should come off fairly easily, but you may have to scrub off some paper residue with a toothbrush. Be gentle when you do this as you can scratch off your traces.

  3. #78
    gaurav_sharma132 Newbie
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    Dude as you have experience making PCB by using magazine paper...so can you Please enlist the steps from beginning as I am going to make it for the first time.....

    Thanks in Advance

    Regards
    Gaurav Sharma

  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rolf View Post
    I would not know because I only use P&P and I have no problem with 0,006" lines!
    And this is not hearsay.
    Is what you are saying that Pulsar is consistently producing lines finer than 0.006"?
    PCB "Fab-In-A-Box" ... The 8min circuit board system

    Now using any standard 1200 dpi laser printer and the TIA applicator, you can image down to .006" (and below!) We've had customers who have reported traces down to .004"!
    I would not call this hearsay. The guy who runs pulsar is very up front.

    To date i have been happy with .01 and larger traces. Maybe as I get into the fine pitch stuff I will go smaller. I personaly have not tried .006 and .004, played with .008 but never used them in a project. At some point it depends on what the laser printer can do.
    Please post questions to the forums. PM's are for personal communication.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gaurav_sharma132 View Post
    Dude as you have experience making PCB by using magazine paper...so can you Please enlist the steps from beginning as I am going to make it for the first time.....

    Thanks in Advance

    Regards
    Gaurav Sharma
    Basically:
    1. Print the image to paper
    2. Transfer the image to the copper surface using an iron or similar
    3. Remove the paper by soaking the board
    4. Etch the board to remove all exposed copper
    5. Remove the toner circuit image with acetone... done!
    Last edited by BeeBop; 19th May 2009 at 07:23 AM. Reason: number 3

  6. #81
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    Make number 3 soaking.
    Please post questions to the forums. PM's are for personal communication.

    BCHS/3v0's Tutorials
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3v0 View Post
    Make number 3 soaking.
    Thanks, and thanks for putting the link in - you do know where I lifted the list- just too lazy to type one up myself.

  8. #83
    gaurav_sharma132 Newbie
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    hi guys,

    Tell me one thing that should i drill holes before etching process or after it.

    which is preferable or why ?


    Thanks

    Regards
    Gaurav Sharma

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    Quote Originally Posted by gaurav_sharma132 View Post
    hi guys,

    Tell me one thing that should i drill holes before etching process or after it.

    which is preferable or why ?


    Thanks

    Regards
    Gaurav Sharma
    If you try to drill first the heat from the drill melts the toner and gums up the drill bit.
    Drill after etch and toner removal and the center hole will help you guide the drill.

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    I agree with Rolf, except I usually drill after etching but before I take the toner off.
    If you are working in EAGLE CAD, run the ulp called 'drill-aid' from your ulp scripts. It will make all the holes smaller in the center and much easier to drill.

  11. #86
    gaurav_sharma132 Newbie
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    firstly, thnx for reply...

    And dude i am using proteus it is very good software as it also have capability of simulation of the circuit in addition to PCB design.

    But I dude I have read somewhere that It is preferable to drill before etching is started because the surrounding copper gives better mechanical strength to round pads around the drilled holes. These pads may be ripped off sometimes when drilling after the board is etched. Another good reason is that the etching after drilling would remove any strands of copper around the edges of the drilled hole.

    Is it true ??

    Regards
    Gaurav Sharma
    Last edited by gaurav_sharma132; 19th May 2009 at 05:03 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gaurav_sharma132 View Post
    firstly, thnx for reply...

    And dude i am using proteus it is very good software as it also have capability of simulation of the circuit in addition to PCB design.

    But I dude I have read somewhere that It is preferable to drill before etching is started because the surrounding copper gives better mechanical strength to round pads around the drilled holes. These pads may be ripped off sometimes when drilling after the board is etched. Another good reason is that the etching after drilling would remove any strands of copper around the edges of the drilled hole.

    Is it true ??

    Regards
    Gaurav Sharma
    I learned that it is preferable to snip your component leads before soldering because the stress the cutter puts on the lead degrades the connection. I still snip my leads after soldering, though, as it is a lot more convenient to do it this way. I don't know many people - perhaps there are some - who do it the 'proper' way.

    I would build a few boards and try it both ways.

    If you over-etch the board, and the traces get undercut, then there is more chance of tearing off a small pad with the drill. Make your pads and traces as large as you can, then they will be sturdier. The boards I make are designed to be made at home. I would use thinner traces, etc. if I were submitting a board to be made commercially.

    Hope this answers your questions.

  13. #88
    gaurav_sharma132 Newbie
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    Is photo paper is ok for the method of applying heat to copper clad by domestic press???



    Regards
    Gaurav Sharma

  14. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by gaurav_sharma132 View Post
    Is photo paper is ok for the method of applying heat to copper clad by domestic press???



    Regards
    Gaurav Sharma
    Hmmm, what do you mean by photo paper?

    Just find a glossy page in a magazine with the least amount of print on the page and use that.

  15. #90
    gaurav_sharma132 Newbie
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    Actually, Dude me not having printer at home.....

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