I would like to try some PCB etching for the first time.

I'm planning on using it for this layout
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/...=77&Itemid=106

A quick question, I printed out the sheet seen here
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/...ean_ps_pcb.gif

But it came out in full size, how do I print it in real scale?

And any helpful information on PCB etching would be great.

I have not heard much about it and have never tried it before, I think the shack has a few more kits for it left...they any good?

Thanks.

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Dave

www.myspace.com/sonicorbstudios

Welcome to "Sonic Orb Studios"

 

There's plenty of threads on here all ready about etching, with tips and links to guides.

You'll need an image program that allows you to adjust print size in order to print that image to the correct dimensions. I'm sure there are plenty of freeware/shareware ones out there. Check http://www.tucows.com/

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Mark Higgins

 

Like Mark wrote, there is much information on PCB making available. I am in the same boat as you Dave, having done much research and after much wasted time, with difficult to understand programs, I am now using PCB123 for layouts. It prints out any layer at the scale of one. The only problem is that it only prints in the center of the page. If you use Skype I could help you get started.
--
Rolf

PS. There are a few tricks that are not well known out there, like readily available etching solution for less than $ 5.00 / Gal. and reverse electro plating.

 

ill do some searching and see how hard it is....if its a big job for a small board ill just use some of the boards i have in the bin...i just got one with 3 holes per pad.

ill also look into PCB123

__________________
Dave

www.myspace.com/sonicorbstudios

Welcome to "Sonic Orb Studios"

 

You really don't need 25VAC in, 12VAC (or DC) should do it.

__________________
Bill
Home of the
Firefly PIC Tutor
Inchworm ICD2

http://www.blueroomelectronics.com

 

Moody:

I do them all the time. It is not hard and you really only need the etching solution, some inkjet photopaper and household items. My process, about 30 minutes total..

I recommend the inkjet photopaper method, works well. I can send you what I do if you like. It works very well

 

I think the reason for 25VAC is to make totally sure there is no ripple. That's a pretty heavy handed way to do it since it really limits the total current (heat due to >20V dissipation). Unless you use a big heatsink, I'd be suprised if it delivered much more than 100 mA with out overheating. As long as we are critiquing the design, why not use a 7809 and skip all that fussing with r1a, r1b, ...

the image looks to have been produced at 600 DPI so needs to be printed at that pitch. it would have been a lot more precise if he'd just put up a gerber with a pointer to something like pentalogix viewmate for printing.

 

I have posted about the power supply here

http://www.electro-tech-online.com/e...er-supply.html

Instead of using the 25V transformer I got a 12V unit and a 2200uF 35V capacitor replaced the original 1000uF 35V that was called for in the plans.

I think for my board im just going to use one of the plain ones instead of make one...from what i have looked up, its quite a bit of work but it sure does look good in the end.

I could go and buy a made board or make one to the plans but with the different components i got like the bridge rectifier, its not layed out the same. Theirs has the leads at each corner but i ordered a BR with all the leads in a row.

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Dave

www.myspace.com/sonicorbstudios

Welcome to "Sonic Orb Studios"

 

Sorry for posting like. Would have liked to start a new thread but I don't have my 25 yet.

Anyhow I was wondering if it would be practical to use a HP 7475(A) plotter to draw the resist directly on to the copper.
1 - Does the paper feed allow for the thickness of the board?
2 - Are there PCB layout programs that can be used or converted to HPGL,HP-GL2 or DMPL?

Any information will be appreciated.

Rolf

 

people have done this but the results aren't that good. the main problem is the thickness of the pen tip. From memory, the best you can do is 25-30 mil width traces which rules out a lot of parts.

try the yahoo home brew pcb group - it's been discussed there.

 

Thanks, lots of old (but good) information on pens suitable for use as resist. I assume the plotter takes the thickness of the board because nothing was mentioned about that.
It were hardly any mentioning of drivers or software. So I am still bewildered about that.

 

I'm not sure what you mean by "old" - 2 or 3 yrs maybe. doesn't seem that old and I doubt there is much newer as few people are using the plotter approach. You will have to search the message base but there have been lots of discussions of software.

edit: yahoo group seach function totally sucks, by the way, you have to keep hitting next... it's one of the reasons I don't use yahoo groups very much.

 

Im looking for a premade board again...i dont really want to go through making one myself for just one project though so im looking for someone else to make the one i posted.

i emailed the guy at the site and he said he would change the layout of that PCB so it printed in the correct size.

Anyways im running into a few problems making the power supply...parts sheet says get some itmes and the layout sheet says they are something different...ill post about it in my other thread.

__________________
Dave

www.myspace.com/sonicorbstudios

Welcome to "Sonic Orb Studios"

 

You lost me on pre-made, like them to send you the board? It did not look like it was too hard to make (as I recall)? Also, on the sizing, let me know. I can pull it and size it and send it back.

Ask Bill (Blueroom) and Mike K8LH, I can make boards in minutes. And they will tell you will be probably not be drilled

I just went out to drill one (Inchworm ICD2).. I need to go to an eye doctor..
Got my son to do a couple and then he said he had to so swiming... Guess I better get into SMT..

 

no kidding, drilling is the worst part of making home brew PCBs. That's why I use SMDs where ever possible.