Thanks for the replies. Checked out the site Canti mentioned, it is great, thanks so much. Think we may try a little home repair, if we can spot the problem. Will keep you posted.

 

I have the same probably with the same model TV (32" Flat screen HDTV model 32PT9100D). The green LED flashes and it shuts down and won't restart. The guy from Philips says that it sounds like a power relay problem due to the flashing LED and the relay switching sounds. The TV does weigh alot (152 lbs) and the TV repair place thinks I need to bring it to them. I have had it since Nov '05 so parts are under warrenty but not labor. Does anyone have any idea how many hours it would possible take to repair this type of problem?

 

Like Nigel has already said, Philips sets have in the past had a very poor reputation for the quality of their CRTs. I used to work on a lot of Sanyo stuff which had their 28" CRTs fitted (W66ECK-something) and they would go down ALL the time. The Sanyo sets weren't too intelligent so they would just sit there and allow the fault to appear, but Philips TVs are much more complex - they monitor the working operation of the CRT and, if something is not as it should be, it'll shut itself down into standby. This makes diagnosis much more difficult because the Philips sets don't allow you to see the actual fault!

The flashing LED you speak about is an error code generated by the microprocessor. Personally I've rarely found them to be of any use, but if you're still interested to find out what your code means you'll need to obtain a service manual for it.

I also had quite a lot of trouble with the SSB panel on a lot of Philips TVs. These TVs had the A10 chassis fitted, and there's an IC on the SSB panel called the "painter" IC, which caused me no end of grief. Faults ranged from sound quality, intermittent remote control operation, picture faults, shutting down into standby for no apparent reason, changing channels on it's own - pretty much anything you can think of. You can tell if yours is an A10 model by checking the label on the rear of the TV - the chassis number will be shown on there.

Hope this helps,

Brian

 

Shawnsterz:

Unfortunately TV repair is not as simple as that. If you were experiencing a common fault which the engineer knew about, then it would probably be possible for him to give you an idea of the labour time involved in changing the part and setting up the TV, but if an engineer has to walk in on a new problem, it is completely impossible for him to give any idea of the time it will take him to trace the fault. It might take him as little as 5 seconds, or it might take him as long as a week or more!

Quite often these days repair shops will offer a free estimate service in order to encourage business, or they may offer a flat rate repair service, so that you only pay them a set rate for the repair regardless of how long the poor old engineer spends on it. Ring around and have a chat with a couple of these places.

Brian

 

Just as an aside, Thomson ( RCA, GE, Proscan , and many other rebrands I'm sure ) had a similar problems with a line of chassis #CTC175-187. It was all due to poor soldering around the micro / eprom and the shield cage. A whole myriad of weird problems arose. If the problem was left go for a while it only got worse, to the point where the EEPROM could be damaged. Then the set could do it self expensive damage or be completely inoperable, since the EEPROM held values for proper operation of power supplies, scan rates, etc.

If caught when it first happened, simply resoldering the bad joints ( Thomson actually issued a special solder and flux kit ) was all that was needed. If it progressed, you needed to replace the EEPROM with one that was preprogramed to a level that would allow the set to turn on, then you had to recalibrate everything, full factory alignment. The fun was that you only got one shot at it, hoping the correct values got written to the EEPROM, or you would be back at square one, replacing the EEPROM again.

Lesson? - get it fixed before it gets worse, and possibly more expensive. Just turning the set on, even if it appears to work sometimes, could be a bad idea.

 

On those Sanyo sets I mentioned earlier, when the Philips CRT arced over it would quite often corrupt the EEPROM and knock out all of the Geometry settings. The picture would look awful after that! You'd then have to go back through all the settings with a tets card, and you had to do that once for every display mode that the television had (16:9, 4:3, full, zoom, title-in, etc)

Brian

 

Like Nigel said-overvoltage,overcurrent or protection circuit. The regulator immediately past the raw b+ voltage may be breaking down, especially if it is a pass regulator and overheating.

 

I work with Philips consumer products alot and the refurb plant where im employed. do you have the model number and the manufacture date for the TV. Alot of Philips TV's now will flash and error code. when there is a problem.Usually a single long flash means 10 a short flash 1 a short pause then it starts again. And the codes can mean something totally different if they are a different color. I know there was a service pack that had to be replaced on certain 32 flat screen TV. (Inductor,resistor, and a tansistor.)
(I hopes this helps u out, if u get model and manfacture i can sure i can find the problem). Or know someone who does (right now main projects im working on is 42 and 50 plasma, have experience in LCD,CRT,MP3,and HP printers if u have any question on these just ask.

 

Brilliant deductions there! The next time my lawnmower doesn't start, I'll automatically suspect the pull rope since my arm muscles sometimes has fluctuation?

__________________
Don't make me reach through this monitor to slap you a good one!

 

Why bother with a dead thread, two months old, posted by someone who probably has not been back since?
Just my cynical (or is it realistic) nature.

JimB

__________________
Experience is directly proportional to the value of the equipment ruined.

 

Error Code Table


0 = No error
1 = X-ray protection, E/W protection, and/or Vertical protection active
2 = High beam current protection active
3 = Reserved
4 = +5V protection active
5 = Signal Processor (IC 7150) register corrupted
6 = Signal Processor (IC 7150) error
7 = Total failure
8 = Internal RAM error (Microprocessor IC 7000)
10 = NV memory (IC7088) addressing error
11 = NV memory (IC7088) size error
12 = Histogram (YUV) (IC 7770) error
14 = Sound processor I²C error (TDA9855)
16 = Main Tuner I²C error (IC 1125)
17 = PIP Processor I²C error (IC 7350)
18 = PIP Tuner I²C error (IC 1127)

I hope this will be of help...

__________________
...Located on the fringes of the Cosmic CoastLine...
.....Deep, Deep, in the Engineering Section...
.......StarBaseONE2

 

Hi jdbouncer,
I was reading the above post and hope you can help.
I bought a Phillips 27" tv in Dec of 2004 from Visions Electronics in Canada, last night I was watching the t.v. and put the sleep timer on for 45 minutes. After 45 min it shut off as it normally does.
When my boyfriend came to bed 2 hours later and wanted to watch t.v the thing was totally dead!
He even tried to turn it on manually without the remote but nothing...
We unplugged it and plugged it into another outlet but this did nothing. I have been searching on the internet and apparently there is a huge problem out there with this Phillips tv model doing the same thing throughout the USA and Canada . The model # is 27PT5441/37 (Phillips)
manufactured in July 2004
Any help would be appreciated.

sadtv

Thanks