Hello!
I know that it is recomended to use low wattage irons when working with heat sensitive components such as IC or transistors. So, I used a 14W iron for those tasks. I suppose it is because low power means slower recovery time, so it is harder to burn something as temperature takes a bit to raise to stationary value.

But now I se a temperature controlled 50W iron. 50W seems like a lot to me. I was about to chose a 20W iron, but I preffer 50W as it is more versatil. My worry is about these kind of eat sensitive jobs.
Should I just use a low temperature??

I know many people are using this soldering station for heat sensitive works, it has a wide variety of cartridges, even 0.2mm.
http://www.jbctools.com/pdf/puntas/m...-2045-2245.pdf

Many people use WELLER stations with 50W irons and even 80W for these kind of works too, so I suppose I'm confused with watts...
Anyone can help me out?

Thanks!!

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Just if someone is interested:
This is the station
http://www.jbctools.com/english/adva...ons/ad2700.php
and this is the iron
http://www.jbctools.com/english/adva...piz2210_45.php

 

I have used my 42W Weller temperature-controlled soldering iron with a 700 degrees F, 1/16th inch tip for about 40 years without anything damaged by heat. Each solder joint is made with rosin-cored 63%/37% tin-lead solder in about 1 second.

__________________
Uncle $crooge

 

The reason for suggesting small wattage irons is ONLY for non-controlled ones, with a temperature controlled iron the wattage doesn't matter, it only gets as hot as it's set!.

__________________
PIC programmer software, and PIC Tutorials at:
http://www.winpicprog.co.uk

 

Thank you, it is what I thouth then.
The 50W iron for the station I got costs the same as the 20W version. I just got confused, and wonder why could you chose the 20W then. They both use the same station too.

By the way, any recomended temperature to start with?
I my solder melts at 190ºC, is it ok setting 210ºC or so? Maybe a bigger margin?

 

I find 300C-250C a good temp as long as you are quick.

Chips generally do not like high temp at all, BUT if you look at their datasheet most provide curves for how long they can handle short temp-spikes (ie dueing wave soldering)

I would prefer a high-temp and get it over with quickly then a low-temp and having to mess around, solder gets sticky and doesn't flow nicely at too low a temp

__________________
Nothing is impossible.
Once a problem is realised, the rest is just details

 

Great, I'll start with 250ºC and see how it works.

I personally agree with you, I rather to work fast with more power, than take too much time. If working on a conector, for example, plastic parts sometimes melt (a bit) and loose its shape! I hate that (it mainly happends when I use my 11W iron)

 

Although I make most my joints quickly, I still use those chip sockets for DIL chips. Makes it easier if you want to upgrade/replace them in the future too.

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Angry!? I'm absolutely electrolytic!

Will have to make do with myspace now I guess...

 

Flux is the key to quick and easy soldering. I have a flux pen and wipe it over SMD pads before soldering.

__________________
see my website: www.geocities.com/russlk

 

Is flux harmfull for the tip?

 

I had a bottle of liquid flux that worked great for smt ... after applying it, it would get very sticky, and hold the part where it needed to be... at the time, I didn't like it because 0603 resistors kept sticking to the tweezers, instead of the board. right now I'm just using cheapo radioshack electronics paste flux, and it works fairly well.

if you use flux for electronics soldering, no, flux is good for the tip - keeps it clean and free from oxides - when used responsibly ... don't leave your tip soaking in flux all night long or anything

if you use flux for stained glass or plumbing soldering/brazing, that is bad, it contains an acid which damages the plating on the tip

 

use heat sinks if you are worried about damaging heat sensitive components. with transistors, i use a small size easel clip with a rubber band around it to make it clamp better. All you do is clamp it on the lead to be soldered above the soldering point and below the actual component. Obviously would not work for ic's, but i find that if you have 10+ heat sensitive connections you need to make adjacent to eachother its very easy to move quickly from one joint to the other.

 

Good tips, thank you.

I have a problem with my tip now.
after little work, it got a black ring around the tip, very close to where solder actually melts.

My seller told me it was just rosin dust (I hope that's how you call it in English), but there's no way to get rid of it with the dumped sponge... any idea? or should I just forget about it?

image here:
http://www.electro-tech-online.com/v...ic.php?t=21328

 

that tip looks fine

some discoloration is normal on areas of the tip not used regularly ... you don't solder that high on the cone anyway

you should be able to clean it off by dunking the tip in flux and then wiping on the sponge ... then try to cover as much of the tip as you can with solder, letting it melt and the flux 'cook off' ... you might need to rotate the iron to get the little solder bubble to work its way around the tip.

when the whole tip is nice and shiney, wipe off the extra solder on your damp sponge.