How to make proffesional panels at home? - Electronic Circuits Projects Diagrams Free

cybe · 18th April 2005, 12:40 AM

This maybe don't belong under electronics since it is more chemistry really... but anyway.... got this "great" idea a while ago, after reading a little on anodizing aluminium I got the following question, coudn't this technique be used to make panels or signs? Lets take it from the beginning of the prosses...
First you anodize alumium then you colour it with for exampel black colour then you add photresist to the anodized board. Isn't it then possible to expose it to a film under UV and do the same thing as I do when I etch pcb?
I guess it wil be som pretty much work but I think it might look good on some bigger project.

One thing I am a bit uncertain on (I am really uncertain if this gonna work at all too but...) is do the etching I use for the copper clad board (ferric chloride) also etch aluminum? I would guess so but I am very uncertain....

If anyone wants to know mor3e about how to anodize I got some links:
http://www.mini-lathe.com/Anodizing/...g_aluminum.htm
http://www.turborick.com/anodize.html
http://www.artmetal.com/project/TOC/...s/anodize.html
http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/...hp/t20706.html
http://easyweb.easynet.co.uk/~chrish/t-anodis.htm

evandude · 18th April 2005, 03:28 AM

try putting some aluminum in ferric chloride... just do it outdoors and with nothing valuable nearby :lol:

I tried some home anodizing last year. an anodizing guide suggesting using "a ferric acid" to remove the tarnish left after stripping, caused by other metals in the aluminum alloy. since I had ferric chloride handy, I tried it... it started fizzing faster and faster and almost boiled over before I had a chance to get it out. not surprisingly, it also got very warm very quickly!

to dissolve aluminum oxide (anodization) you should use lye (sodium hydroxide) despite what the guides say, I was totally unable to find any locally so I used powdered drain cleaner instead, and it worked okay. I also got some industrial-strength drain cleaner that was more concentrated lye and worked a little better.

if your photoresist can withstand lye then I guess it would work...

but considering the amount of effort it takes to anodize, I imagine it would only be worth it for very important projects... dealing with strong acids, strong bases, and large amounts of electricity isn't something I, personally, would want to do on a regular basis. :roll: not to mention, it takes a while.

chemelec · 18th April 2005, 05:14 AM

For some of my Projects, I just Draft up a front panal layout in a CAD Program.
I Than Reverse it and Print it out on my Laser Printer onto Clear Acetate. (Reversing it so the Printed Side is the Glue Side. So the Ink Can't rub off later when your hands touch it.)

I Than use a "3M PhotoMount" Spray to Coat the Clear Acetate mylar. Let it Dry and Carefully Stick it onto the Surface.

Holes in the Metal surface are Pre-drilled and a Razor blade knife is used to cut the mylar where the holes are.

This Method allow for Colors or Black and white and gives a Very Professional Appearance.

Take care............Gary

**Nigel Goodwin** · 18th April 2005, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chemelec

For some of my Projects, I just Draft up a front panal layout in a CAD Program.
I Than Reverse it and Print it out on my Laser Printer onto Clear Acetate. (Reversing it so the Printed Side is the Glue Side. So the Ink Can't rub off later when your hands touch it.)

I Than use a "3M PhotoMount" Spray to Coat the Clear Acetate mylar. Let it Dry and Carefully Stick it onto the Surface.

Holes in the Metal surface are Pre-drilled and a Razor blade knife is used to cut the mylar where the holes are.

This Method allow for Colors or Black and white and gives a Very Professional Appearance.

Take care............Gary

You can do a similar thing by printing it out on plain paper, then laminating it! - cut the design out and glue it to the front panel, then cut the holes out with a sharp knife.

zevon8 · 18th April 2005, 05:22 PM

I didn't check all your links, but there are kits for making permanent labels on aluminum. These use photo-resist method, and are quite simple. Years ago I made a few hundred serial number plates this way, worked quite well, I left a blank area for engraving the serial numbers.

You could vary the setting time to get from a pale brown to dark black.

I think I used a Kodak product, or maybe Speedball.

cybe · 18th April 2005, 06:09 PM

Hmm.... guess there is more aspect of this than I fourst thought off.... thanks for the replies!

I have also seen som finished solutions but I think the price is pretty high, on type I found is called "alucorex" but are not sure if it use laminating method or not...

Think I maybe also speak a little to some on the electronic lab at my university... I have seen they have proffesional panels on the equipment they have made (it looks like it is anopdized, or else it is very good result)... maybe they have some ideas how to do it......

one problem I have with the lamination is that I have a ink printer and therefore there is small "corns" on the foil....

Dean Huster · 18th April 2005, 09:03 PM

I've done panels (they have to be flat to make it "easy") using Press 'n' Peel toner transfer paper and a dry-mount press. Then give the panel several light coats of Krylon Clear Spray to protect it.

Before that, I used dry transfer lettering followed up with several coats of Krylon. Not quite as nice-looking, but it works. At least the new types of Dymo tape lettering systems aren't as intrusive as the old "mashed plastic strip" type of the 1960s and 70s.

Popular Electronics had a long article on anodizing aluminum back in the late 1960s or early 70s, complete with the diagrams for the plating electronics needed.

Another possibility, although I've not tried it, is to use lye to etch just the lettering, letting a lye-resistant resist cover everything else. Etch deep enough that you can fill the etched lettering with paint (even colored paint for special markings) much like Simpson does on their 260-series of multimeters and Tektronix did on their old 500-series scopes. Alternatively, you could use a Dremel tool and pantograph to mechanically "etch" the lettering similar to a jeweler doing name plates for trophies.

Dean

cybe · 19th April 2005, 08:47 AM

I might have an idea, I have some tranpsarent sheets wiith adhesive on one side wich I can print panel deisgns on, I tryed this before but it is bvery sensitive and I can't mererly touch it before iit gets different kinds of fat mark or the ink smudge out.... what i havent think of before is ofcourse that I can spray it with a protective layer of krylon. Then it shouldn't be that sensitive to fingertips and water.... The result wont look fully profesional but I guess better than nothing....

18th April 2005, 12:40 AM	(permalink)
cybe New Member	How to make proffesional panels at home? This maybe don't belong under electronics since it is more chemistry really... but anyway.... got this "great" idea a while ago, after reading a little on anodizing aluminium I got the following question, coudn't this technique be used to make panels or signs? Lets take it from the beginning of the prosses... First you anodize alumium then you colour it with for exampel black colour then you add photresist to the anodized board. Isn't it then possible to expose it to a film under UV and do the same thing as I do when I etch pcb? I guess it wil be som pretty much work but I think it might look good on some bigger project. One thing I am a bit uncertain on (I am really uncertain if this gonna work at all too but...) is do the etching I use for the copper clad board (ferric chloride) also etch aluminum? I would guess so but I am very uncertain.... If anyone wants to know mor3e about how to anodize I got some links: http://www.mini-lathe.com/Anodizing/...g_aluminum.htm http://www.turborick.com/anodize.html http://www.artmetal.com/project/TOC/...s/anodize.html http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/...hp/t20706.html http://easyweb.easynet.co.uk/~chrish/t-anodis.htm

18th April 2005, 03:28 AM	(permalink)
evandude Experienced Member	try putting some aluminum in ferric chloride... just do it outdoors and with nothing valuable nearby :lol: I tried some home anodizing last year. an anodizing guide suggesting using "a ferric acid" to remove the tarnish left after stripping, caused by other metals in the aluminum alloy. since I had ferric chloride handy, I tried it... it started fizzing faster and faster and almost boiled over before I had a chance to get it out. not surprisingly, it also got very warm very quickly! to dissolve aluminum oxide (anodization) you should use lye (sodium hydroxide) despite what the guides say, I was totally unable to find any locally so I used powdered drain cleaner instead, and it worked okay. I also got some industrial-strength drain cleaner that was more concentrated lye and worked a little better. if your photoresist can withstand lye then I guess it would work... but considering the amount of effort it takes to anodize, I imagine it would only be worth it for very important projects... dealing with strong acids, strong bases, and large amounts of electricity isn't something I, personally, would want to do on a regular basis. :roll: not to mention, it takes a while. __________________ EEgeek.net

18th April 2005, 05:14 AM	(permalink)
chemelec Experienced Member	For some of my Projects, I just Draft up a front panal layout in a CAD Program. I Than Reverse it and Print it out on my Laser Printer onto Clear Acetate. (Reversing it so the Printed Side is the Glue Side. So the Ink Can't rub off later when your hands touch it.) I Than use a "3M PhotoMount" Spray to Coat the Clear Acetate mylar. Let it Dry and Carefully Stick it onto the Surface. Holes in the Metal surface are Pre-drilled and a Razor blade knife is used to cut the mylar where the holes are. This Method allow for Colors or Black and white and gives a Very Professional Appearance. Take care............Gary __________________ I No Longer accept Private Messages on here. All Emails to me Must Contain the Word \"Electronic\" in the \"Subject Line\" or they go Directly to my Junk Mail Folder. Email me at: chemelec@hotmail.com Website: http://www3.telus.net/chemelec

18th April 2005, 09:03 PM	(permalink)
Dean Huster Experienced Member	I've done panels (they have to be flat to make it "easy") using Press 'n' Peel toner transfer paper and a dry-mount press. Then give the panel several light coats of Krylon Clear Spray to protect it. Before that, I used dry transfer lettering followed up with several coats of Krylon. Not quite as nice-looking, but it works. At least the new types of Dymo tape lettering systems aren't as intrusive as the old "mashed plastic strip" type of the 1960s and 70s. Popular Electronics had a long article on anodizing aluminum back in the late 1960s or early 70s, complete with the diagrams for the plating electronics needed. Another possibility, although I've not tried it, is to use lye to etch just the lettering, letting a lye-resistant resist cover everything else. Etch deep enough that you can fill the etched lettering with paint (even colored paint for special markings) much like Simpson does on their 260-series of multimeters and Tektronix did on their old 500-series scopes. Alternatively, you could use a Dremel tool and pantograph to mechanically "etch" the lettering similar to a jeweler doing name plates for trophies. Dean __________________ Dean Huster, Electronics Curmudgeon Contributing Editor emeritus, "Q & A", of the former "Poptronics" magazine (formerly "Popular Electronics" and "Electronics Now" magazines). R.I.P.

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18th April 2005, 05:22 PM	(permalink)
zevon8 Experienced Member	I didn't check all your links, but there are kits for making permanent labels on aluminum. These use photo-resist method, and are quite simple. Years ago I made a few hundred serial number plates this way, worked quite well, I left a blank area for engraving the serial numbers. You could vary the setting time to get from a pale brown to dark black. I think I used a Kodak product, or maybe Speedball.

18th April 2005, 06:09 PM	(permalink)
cybe New Member	Hmm.... guess there is more aspect of this than I fourst thought off.... thanks for the replies! I have also seen som finished solutions but I think the price is pretty high, on type I found is called "alucorex" but are not sure if it use laminating method or not... Think I maybe also speak a little to some on the electronic lab at my university... I have seen they have proffesional panels on the equipment they have made (it looks like it is anopdized, or else it is very good result)... maybe they have some ideas how to do it...... one problem I have with the lamination is that I have a ink printer and therefore there is small "corns" on the foil....

19th April 2005, 08:47 AM	(permalink)
cybe New Member	I might have an idea, I have some tranpsarent sheets wiith adhesive on one side wich I can print panel deisgns on, I tryed this before but it is bvery sensitive and I can't mererly touch it before iit gets different kinds of fat mark or the ink smudge out.... what i havent think of before is ofcourse that I can spray it with a protective layer of krylon. Then it shouldn't be that sensitive to fingertips and water.... The result wont look fully profesional but I guess better than nothing....