Electronic Projects, forums and more.

Go Back   Electronic Circuits Projects Diagrams Free > Electronics Forums > General Electronics Chat


General Electronics Chat This forum is for general chat about electronics, eg: Dont know what a part does? Dont know how to read a circuit? Want to get an opinion?

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 20th January 2005, 06:56 PM   (permalink)
Default Dual full rectifier supplies

I am currently trying to build a dual voltage +12v / -12v supply. I've already built the simple full-wave single voltage output version. I am about to build another one and connect them as in the figure below. Granted these are not the multi-hundred dollar powr supplies from lab we always did this method with, so I thought I would ask first before attempting it. My transformers do not have a center tap, which is why I would like to do it with this method.
Attached Images
File Type: png dual_12_supply.png (26.5 KB, 653 views)
bonxer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 20th January 2005, 07:27 PM   (permalink)
Default

I'm not 100% sure but you might be able to join together the outputs of both transformer to make it like a centre-tap.

then simple
Styx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 20th January 2005, 07:32 PM   (permalink)
Default

It will be pefectly fine - as long as 'A' and 'B' aren't connected to ground or chassis - that is, both supplies are floating. The top one ('A') could be connected to ground, as it's becoming the centre zero volts connection. But if 'B' is grounded as well, obviously the bottom supply will be shorted out.
__________________
PIC programmer software, and PIC Tutorials at:
http://www.winpicprog.co.uk
Nigel Goodwin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 20th January 2005, 07:33 PM   (permalink)
Default Re: Dual full rectifier supplies

Quote:
Originally Posted by bonxer
I am currently trying to build a dual voltage +12v / -12v supply. I've already built the simple full-wave single voltage output version. I am about to build another one and connect them as in the figure below. Granted these are not the multi-hundred dollar powr supplies from lab we always did this method with, so I thought I would ask first before attempting it. My transformers do not have a center tap, which is why I would like to do it with this method.
Just make certain that your A and B "grounds" are totally independent from each other (no connections to chassis), and it should work fine.
Roff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 20th January 2005, 08:21 PM   (permalink)
Default

why not use a 7912 regulator for your -12V supply?

Here's a schematic I found in the datasheet:

Just replace the LM78L15 with with an LM7812, and the LM79L15 with a LM7912. (the 78L15 is the lower current version, so if you were to get a LM7815, it will have the higher current you need.)

What is the output of your transformer after the rectifier?
Looking at the datasheet, it appears that you need a minimum of -14.7V for the input for the Voltage regulator to work properly?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg _-15vsupply.jpg (14.7 KB, 625 views)
__________________
Jeff Zimmerman
To the optimist, the glass is half full.
To the pessimist, the glass is half empty.
To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be.
jrz126 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21st January 2005, 01:50 PM   (permalink)
Default

jrz - The diagram you posted doesn't really answer the heart of my question though, which was along the lines of "I wanna connect stuff without causing the wiring in my house to catch fire :P ". The first thing yours needs on the left is a +20, a ground, and a -20, which would require the rigging up of the transformers and diodes in a way I've not yet done.

I wanted to make sure connecting two simple rectified sources wouldn't cause a problem with shorting out the transformers or my outlets. Thanks all. I shall give it a try.

The only other thing I'm wondering about is this: I'm using standard PC power cords with three wires: hot, neutral, and ground. Can I take both of the green wires in the cords, tie them together, screw them to the metal box I'm putting these supplies in, and also connect them to the Ground A in my diagram?
bonxer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21st January 2005, 04:43 PM   (permalink)
Default

Quote:
The only other thing I'm wondering about is this: I'm using standard PC power cords with three wires: hot, neutral, and ground. Can I take both of the green wires in the cords, tie them together, screw them to the metal box I'm putting these supplies in, and also connect them to the Ground A in my diagram?
Yep, that will work.
Roff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21st January 2005, 07:13 PM   (permalink)
Default

Another possible solution...
Attached Images
File Type: gif psu_199.gif (13.6 KB, 492 views)
Sebi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21st January 2005, 08:09 PM   (permalink)
Default

Bottom diode in series with the cap (going to GND) on the -ve supply is the wrong way around. When corrected it should be noted that it will act as a voltage doubler, so the peak input to the -ve voltage regulator will be about -34V volt.
Attached Images
File Type: gif fault_diode.gif (2.7 KB, 529 views)
__________________
\"You can\'t make a circuit fool-proof, cause fools are so ingenious!\"
TheOne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21st January 2005, 08:09 PM   (permalink)
Default

Mods please delete this double post.
__________________
\"You can\'t make a circuit fool-proof, cause fools are so ingenious!\"
TheOne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21st January 2005, 08:09 PM   (permalink)
Default

Posted 3 times? Mods delete please
__________________
\"You can\'t make a circuit fool-proof, cause fools are so ingenious!\"
TheOne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22nd January 2005, 04:14 AM   (permalink)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOne
Bottom diode in series with the cap (going to GND) on the -ve supply is the wrong way around. When corrected it should be noted that it will act as a voltage doubler, so the peak input to the -ve voltage regulator will be about -34V volt.
The voltage at the lower leg of the transformer is only about 15v p-p, due to the diode drops in the bridge. After DC restoration by the diode in question, and rectification, you only get about -12 to -13 volts at the input to the negative regulator. This is with 30 ohms load on each output.
I have to admit that I simulated this to verify it. I'm either too lazy or too stupid to analyze it otherwise. :roll:
Roff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22nd January 2005, 04:40 AM   (permalink)
Default

I was thinking in terms of a light or no load and the danger of max input voltage to the regulator which is -40V. The -ve section will still work as a 1/2 wave voltage doubler where the top will be normal full wave rectification. The dissipation in the -ve regulator will be much higher than the +ve one.

Ron, you have to analyze it over more than 1 cycle to see that the voltages from the caps will add.
Attached Images
File Type: gif -ve_supply.gif (13.8 KB, 510 views)
__________________
\"You can\'t make a circuit fool-proof, cause fools are so ingenious!\"
TheOne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22nd January 2005, 06:48 AM   (permalink)
Default

Here is plot over multiple cycles
Attached Images
File Type: gif -ve_graph.gif (9.3 KB, 498 views)
__________________
\"You can\'t make a circuit fool-proof, cause fools are so ingenious!\"
TheOne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22nd January 2005, 08:50 AM   (permalink)
Default

Yes, of course i've drawed the diode in wrong way! Edited...
BTW: in the real cct. the voltages different...
Attached Images
File Type: gif psu_712.gif (7.8 KB, 482 views)
Sebi is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes




All times are GMT. The time now is 07:23 AM.


Electronic Circuits  |  Electronics Wiki
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.