jrz126

Since this topic has a bunch of questions associated with it, I figure I'll make a FAQ (of the questions I had anyways). Feel free to add any others that I leave out. Also, if there is a better explaination for something let me know and I will correct it. Hopefully the moderator can sticky this to the top when it is done.

**Still a work in progress** I'll add explainations later, but let me know if i missed some questions.


Should I use Press n Peel paper?
No, even though I havent personally used it, I heard that the Toner transfer method is better

What paper should I use for the toner transfer method
Staples Photopaper seems to be widely recommended. Even though it says "for inkjet printers", it still works.

I screwed up, how do I remove the toner?
Use acetone to remove it, it comes right off (acetone is not the same as paint thinner ops: ). Careful to not use too much acetone, I think it removes a bit of the copper.

What etchants are there, and which one should I use?
What is the UltraViolet light box used for?
How long do I iron it for?
How do I do double sided boards?
What are some good techniques to ensure a good PCB?
Track width?, Pad size?, grid spacing?


I hate to post something that isnt even close to being finished, but if I post it, it'll force me to work on it :wink:

Well, feel free to help out... [/b]

__________________
Jeff Zimmerman
To the optimist, the glass is half full.
To the pessimist, the glass is half empty.
To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be.

jbeng

The acetone dissolves the toner, but I couldn't see any way for it to dissolve the copper. Be very careful with acetone, it's extremely flammable.
The common etchants are ferric chloride, ammonium persulfate and sodium persulphate. See link: http://www.electro-tech-online.com/viewtopic.php?t=8447
The ultraviolet box is not used for making pcb's using the toner-transfer method. It's used for exposing the board in the photographic process.

These should get you a little bit further in your quest... 8)
JB

__________________
Nothing is impossible for the man who doesn't have to do it himself - Weiler's Law

zachtheterrible

it depends on ur iron. my mom's iron needs about 6 minutes on the hottest possible. ive noticed also that if u iron 2 long, the toner seems to stay on the paper. at least that's MY observation. i also like to tape a piece of paper on the bottom of the iron, makes it so that there is less traction and u dont end up w/ the board slipping all over the place.

if u can, print it directly from a printer. ive noticed that wen i print onto a regular piece of paper, and then copy it, the quality decreases and i end up w/ tracks that aren't nice and smooth on the sides.

track width, wutever ya like :lol: . i gues the best advice is to make the tracks as big as possible as long as it doesn't make ur board too big. this makes for better conductance.

one thing that i did wen i did my first PCB (ive only done 2) was to print it out on a regular piece of paper and then stick the components into the paper to see if everything fit nice and perfect.

__________________
I'm no electronics god, i just talk too much.

jbeng

My track width depends on the amount of current the tracks will need to carry. Also wider tracks and copper pours allow you to get more mileage out of your etchant. For digital signals, I usually use 0.010"-0.020" width.

For me, pad size depends on the diameter of the component lead which will need to fit thru the drill hole. For IC and resistor leads, I usually use 0.065" diameter.

For grid spacing, I usually use .025", but it too depends on the needs of the project.

Please note that my dimensions for this stuff may or may not work too well for you because I usually use the photographic process. It's more of a pain in the a** and takes more time, but it works well for me.

Also a very good idea ...


JB

__________________
Nothing is impossible for the man who doesn't have to do it himself - Weiler's Law