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| General Electronics Chat This forum is for general chat about electronics, eg: Dont know what a part does? Dont know how to read a circuit? Want to get an opinion? |
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| I'm using pcb123 to draw up a pcb, I'm having trouble with the autorouter. I have a total of 214 nets, but it cant route 6 of them. Is there a way to tell it to route these first? Also, I want to place some holes to mount the finished board, but when I run the auto router, it places traces right on top of them. I noticed the routing grid option, what size should I use for that? Is it possible to make it too small? EDIT: Nevermind, I just answered my own question :roll: BTW I just found this board last week and I love it :P . I just wish it was a little more popular...does anyone know of any other message board like this that have more people on them?
__________________ Jeff To the optimist, the glass is half full. To the pessimist, the glass is half empty. To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be. | |
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One HP is 746 watts, 2 14 Hp = 1596 watts. And What is the point of that site? No Projects there that I see. Just popups.
__________________ I No Longer accept Private Messages on here. All Emails to me Must Contain the Word \"Electronic\" in the \"Subject Line\" or they go Directly to my Junk Mail Folder. Email me at: chemelec@hotmail.com Website: http://www3.telus.net/chemelec | ||
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| you gotta use the page tabs at the top and bottom. It's a free site, so they gotta have a lot of ads. I know one hp=746 watts, I'm running 1600watts. of course thats the max output that the amps are rated for. I know it's not the true value, and the only calculations i did was take 1600 and divide by 746. But thats the (car) audio buisness. If the amp can push 1000w for a split second before blowing up, they'll slap that rating on it. Thats usually what the generic companies do though. (they say it's a 500W amp, but fuse is only rated for 20 amps. if you assume that it's running at 13.4 V, it would produce a max of 268w I use that in my sig. in a car message board. i shoulda figured someone would question me about it here :roll:
__________________ Jeff To the optimist, the glass is half full. To the pessimist, the glass is half empty. To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be. | |
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| Agree, nothing with substance just popup crap! :x Ante :roll: | |
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As you already know, car amplifier specs are just a laugh :? | ||
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| I thought that the amp would produce the 268w and the speaker/load consume it? anyhoo, anyone know the answer to my 1st question?
__________________ Jeff To the optimist, the glass is half full. To the pessimist, the glass is half empty. To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be. | |
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I can't be bothered to calculate 80% of 80%, which is why I gave the figure 150-200W 8) | ||
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| And the speakers themselves are also not 100% efficient... | |
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I would have thought speakers in a car are particularly inefficient, due to their relatively small size and small enclosures (where fitted)?. I once demonstrated a pair of very cheap 1x12 PA speakers I was selling, they were rated at 50W each and were the cheapest you could buy - I fed them from my Leak Stereo 70 amplifier, which gave an honest 35W RMS per channel, at low distortion (for it's day). In the fairly large bedroom at my parents it was well above the threshold of pain!, without turning the amplifier up particularly load - in a car that level of volume would not be possible (and still be in the car). BTW, the guy was impressed, and bought the speakers :lol: I seem to remember conventional (not in-car) infinite baffle speakers are only between 5% and 10% efficient, ported ones 10% to 20%, and horn loaded ones 20% to 50%. A horn is simply an acoustic transformer, it matches the speaker cone to the outside air - making a huge efficiency difference. | ||
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