I'm trying to layout my own printed circuit board, and I was wondering if there was some easy software (like express pcb) that had an autorouting function. I've tried Eagle, it has the autorouting function, but it doesnt seem to work all the time (I think I have the lite version).

I really want to have autorouting because I've got 8 20 pin dips, 8-18 pin dips, 3-40 pin connectors, and some bypass caps, and other components. I plan on making the board myself, and my dad can take it to work on the weekend and throw it on a CNC machine to do all the drilling.
So anyways, if you know of some easy to use software, please let me know.

 

i would highly recommend Eagle but if u want a free solution then try PCB123. go to http://www.pcb123.com and download the free software from there. u can order PCBs directly from within this software 8)

 

Just tried it, and it's exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks a bunch.
Now I'm gonna run into a problem of how to convert the holes that I need drilled into a format that my dad can use to plot it on his CNC machine. I think he uses AutoCad, but I'm not sure. how compatible are the files generated by these layout programs? Oh, and I heard about some gerber files that are generated, what exactly are these?

 

im glad it was what you were looking for.

im sorry i havent ever made a PCB that way. i just print the layout on a paper and give it to someone and then i get the made PCB

and i also have no idea about the gerber files.

 

so if I give you a piece of paper with my layout, could you give me a made PCB? :wink:

 

well yes i could but u dont live near me. actually there is a shop in my city which deals in PCBs. i just print the PCB layout on a paper with my inkjet printer and give it to him. then he transfers it to a transparent butter paper. i dont know what he does next, but the next day i have my PCB ready

 

It makes you wish you lived in Pakistan :lol:

__________________
PIC programmer software, and PIC Tutorials at:
http://www.winpicprog.co.uk

 

Ok, I'm researching how to make my own pcb. I just want to make sure I got the steps down:
1. design using software.
2. print onto photo quality paper (using laser printer) (do I print a positive or negitive of my design?)
3. clean the copper board
4.apply printed paper to copper board and iron until toner sticks to board.
5. place it water to remove the paper? (I'm not sure about this step).
6. place in echant (ferric chloride) and adjitate until the copper is removed.
7. rinse thouroughly.
8. drill holes
9. solder components.

here's the site i got the info from http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg/gooteepc.htm

Do these steps look right?
Also, if I'm reading it correctly, the only supplies I need are the copper board, etchant, and paper?

__________________
Jeff
To the optimist, the glass is half full.
To the pessimist, the glass is half empty.
To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be.

 

Butter paper! This can't be true.. I think something is lost in translation..

 

I've used Eagle's autorouter a lot and it seems pretty good in my opinion. What do you mean it doesn't work? Doesn't route every single wire successfully?

No autorouter can route every design. You need to be sure your parts placement is easy to route, with components using a lot of the same signals grouped together and oriented as best as possible. Always instruct the router to route at least Vdd and Gnd FIRST, then you can route all the rest.

You may want to route other signals first too. I had one apparently straightforward design with a number of resistors each hooked to an IC pin, they were in a row right beside the IC, but the autorouter made an initial route through there cutting off all the resistor's wiring path. It was a bad decision that it didn't correct as it iterated. Instructing it to route those first before autorouting forces the correct decision.

 

with eagle I'd clock the auto route button, and it would say that it performed an error, or that option wasnt available in eagle lite or something like that.

__________________
Jeff
To the optimist, the glass is half full.
To the pessimist, the glass is half empty.
To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be.

 

If you want a made PCB there are tons of companies that will do that for you. I use PCBExpress. You send them your gerber and drill files and they send you your PCBs in about 3 days. PCBExpress costs about $80 for 2 boards but if you search around you can probably find a cheaper place.

About Gerber and Drill files: Gerber files are designed to work with a plotter style PCB system. They contain apetures and vectors. You can open them in notepad and see a bunch of x,y move coordinates. The idea is you shine light through an aperature onto the light sensitive photoresist on a PCB. The vectors draw all your traces on the Board with the light. Then you etch - the Photoresist that was exposed to light protects the copper under it. The NC drill file is the same idea except it has a bunch of x,y move commands and a drill plunge command. I think these files are fairly similar to CNC machining files. Autocad might be able to read them without any changes.

 

Yes

I presumed he meant 'greaseproof paper'?.

__________________
PIC programmer software, and PIC Tutorials at:
http://www.winpicprog.co.uk

 

I've also tryed Eagle, and found it to be a waste of time. I just use ExpressPCB, might take a little more time, but the pcb is exactly what I want.

I print it to a File and remove any unwanted things and print it on photo paper in my laser.

I am also a CNC machinist, and have some software tools that can convert drawings. If you need help just msg me.

Kent

 

Why did you think it was a waste of time? I thought it wasn't bad for the cost. I'm currently evaluating something called CircuitMaker 2000 and am having mixed feeling on it. Schematic capture is easy and new part creation is easy but what I like so far about it most is the spice simulation.
The layout program called Traxmaker (compatible with Protel) leases alot to be desired.. but hey the whole capture/sim and layout are all nicely integrated and for less than $1000 I think it's not bad.