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| | #46 |
| Sounds interesting. Though I’m not planning on using these products with this particular project, I’m curious. Is there a distance from a laptop screen that the average person’s depth perception would not be able to distinguish between these 3D images and a human hand? If so, I would want to make a table on which to secure the laptop in such a way that the laptop screen was horizontal. I would also want to incorporate some type of hand-movement recognition system that would control the laptop display. Another option would be to have the computer display a human hand - shot by a small screen-mounted video camera, in relation to the computer generated game pieces.
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| | #47 |
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You have to pretty much be looking at the screen dead on. It won't project beyond the LCD edge. Or you could get a VR helmet, or old Olympus LCD glasses. | |
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| | #48 |
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I've never heard of X-Y resistive sheets. Perhaps you need touchscreen grids, keyboard membranes or scrap membranes from auto dashes, game controllers or the like for this project.
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| | #49 | |
| Quote:
Last edited by jasonbe; 16th December 2008 at 06:00 PM. | ||
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| | #50 |
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The Olympus LCD glasses were crap, as were pretty much all those LCD glasses displays. And yes you can't see anybody around you. | |
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| | #51 |
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I still really don't get what you're trying to do. Here's a suggestion, download GOOGLE SKETCHUP (free!) and draw what you need including people & objects. It's really easy to use and many objects such as people are build in or downloadable components. | |
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| | #52 |
| The strips wouldn't have to be resistive. Does it make sense that using a bunch of parallel strips would allow the location of a game piece to be located anywhere along each strip? Instead of using resistive properties of each strip to locate the exact location of a game piece along that strip, the location of a game piece along that one strip could be identifying according to where a game piece contacted one of many strips parallel and perpendicular to - yet insulated from, that one strip. I think of a strip somewhat like a line defined on a coordinate system parallel to a y axis. The more strips, the more locations can be identified somewhere on one of these lines. With strips perpendicular to these strips - which are parallel to a y axis, say, defined as being parallel to an x axis, the locations can be narrowed down from be somewhere on a line to a particular point in two dimensional space. Adding strips that are parallel to a z axis could narrow down the location game pieces to a point in three dimensional space. However, this is a bit too much. Right now, I just plan on attaching hinges to a frame in which the parallel and perpendicular strips will be pressed. By doing this, I hope to make a swinging screen that I can place maps under. I am going to look into some of your other ideas.
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| | #53 | |
| Quote:
Last edited by jasonbe; 17th December 2008 at 10:44 PM. Reason: correction | ||
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| | #54 |
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I wound up deleting a schematic that I posted in my Wednesday December 17th reply to blueroomelectronics because it wasn’t very efficient - and wouldn’t represent the location of the game pieces accurately. I’d still like to reply to the suggestion that blueroomelectronics made with an improved version of the thumbnail in my 9th December 2008, 11:31 PM post. I think that an even better electronic design might involve coordinating the game pieces not only with a game board with special resistive properties having electrical contacts – from which measurements may be made as a function of electrical resistance from these contacts, but also with contacts with other game pieces from which measurements may be made in the same way. I got this idea from a person who we were studying in a math course who described elements in sets in terms of spatial relationships. Could anyone recommend a design based on this idea, or know the name of this famous person who described these sets?
Last edited by jasonbe; 17th December 2008 at 11:21 PM. | |
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| | #55 |
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To maintain the flow of any thread it is not a good idea to delete material. When you do any text regarding it in latter posts become confusing. A better thing would have been to add a note regarding the schematic and leaving it in place. I do wish you luck with this. 3v0
__________________ Please post questions to the forums. PM's are for personal communication. BCHS/3v0's Tutorials Junebug USB PIC programmer kit., USB Bit Whacker, The 15 Minute Printed Circuit Board! (+drill time) | |
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| | #56 |
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I liked it better when there was a time limit on thread editing. I recall entire threads going missing when the OP got mad. Is this whole series of threads a school project? | |
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| | #57 | |
| Quote:
This series of threads is not about a school project. I have taken 3v0’s advice about adding notes instead of deleting material. In this case, no one had replied to the thread having the deleted material. Though, I don’t know if anyone was planning on responding to the deleted material. A site administrator might benefit from your idea of a time limit - especially if your information about the OP’s actions is accurate and OP refers to an administrative position. | ||
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| | #58 |
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We have been down the time limit road and it did not work for a few reasons. The one that sticks in my mind is code and schematics. It works well to keep the latest version in a given post, that way people do not have to hunt through a thread to find it. That makes sense in cases where one is doing incrimental improvement rather the tossing out ideas.
__________________ Please post questions to the forums. PM's are for personal communication. BCHS/3v0's Tutorials Junebug USB PIC programmer kit., USB Bit Whacker, The 15 Minute Printed Circuit Board! (+drill time) | |
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| | #59 | |
| Quote:
As for a game that could describe locations more accurately as a continuous function of electricity, would a game having a number of pieces greater than or equal to one and having an electrical design based on Tarski’s world have to have a minimum of two contacts on the game board and one contact on one piece – all having the same charge, in addition to contacts having a different charge on the bottom of each game piece? Or, is there a more efficient way to conserve the number of contacts? Last edited by jasonbe; 19th December 2008 at 01:17 AM. | ||
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| | #60 | ||
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I am not a big fan of the resistance based ideas. Other things come to mind. Have each piece ID'ed by a specific code. Place an LED on the bottom of each peice that flashes that code. Make the playing field transparent. Put a camera under the board to record the bottom of the peices. By comparing the postiion of the lights and the patterns you would know where every peice was on the board. The expensive part is that you would have to put a battery into each piece to power a little 8 pin energy conserving uC. When you had the bugs out of the system you could have each piece flash a few times to id itself and then shut down after each move. If you want to use a bit more complex software you could paint a unique symbol on the bottom of each piece and do away with the electronics in them. Always a tradeoff. -------------------------------------------- I should have qutoed text to provide context. Quote:
Quote:
__________________ Please post questions to the forums. PM's are for personal communication. BCHS/3v0's Tutorials Junebug USB PIC programmer kit., USB Bit Whacker, The 15 Minute Printed Circuit Board! (+drill time) Last edited by 3v0; 19th December 2008 at 01:37 AM. | |||
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