ericgibbs

hi rj

This explains it:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Residual-current_device

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peter5355

Have enclosed a sheet of all devices in my house and the Amps that they use if it is wrong please let me know.

Also seen a generator that had 2KVA was wondering if that generator would do all my devices in my house?

Thank you for all your comments

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Nigel Goodwin

Sorry, but your list is completely useless - you've mixed amps and watts together - many items on that list (like the kettle and washer) individually use more than a 2KW generator can provide.

Hardly anything on the list makes any sense.

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bryan1

5 amps for a clock radio I run a 2400watt sinewave inverter on our house and unless I have another phantom load on the inverter will switch on and off resetting the clock all the time. Mind you I have the inverter trip point set to the mininum which is 30mA and the clock doesnt even use that much. So if your clock is using 5 amps I'd be looking for a new clock radio.

Anyway to measure household items you need a watt meter and siliconchip did a project on one sometime ago and i wouldn't be surprised if EPE has done it too.....

Cheers Bryan

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Marks256

50 amps to run a washing machine? It is 1/4th our service here!

Where on earth did you get a washing machine that takes 50 amps!?

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jpanhalt

After doing all of the adding of individual power needs, remember they are not likely to be all turned on at the same time.

As a reality check, take your electric bill, which is probably in KW-H or equivalent, divide by the number of days for average per day, and divide again by your estimate of daily usage (many people would assume electrical usage goes very low for 6 to 8 hours per day) to get an average per "waking" hour. That doesn't give you peak needs, but it can help to keep you from buying a generator that may be way too big.

If you are really into torture, you could take the readings directly from your meter every day, average them, calculate peak, minimum, and do whatever statistics suit your fancy. John

mneary

You could also buy a "Kill A Watt" (see ebay) meter and measure the actual needs of some of your loads. I don't know if they sell a UK version...

Super_voip

Items with motors need a lot more power at turn on as well, or at least can. So long as the frige and washing machine weren't running at the same time, it may be possible to use a 2000W generator. Be careful with the claimed output as it is usually peak power. I've used the "Kill A watt" and the siliconchip kit, the kit is better. Mainly due to the 3 decimal points on the display, it is a lot quicker in getting some sort of readable power used displayed than the "Kill A Watt" think about a device which may only use 1-10 watts for most of the day and the smallest unit for kilowatt used on the "Kill A Watt" is 100Watts. Buy a larger 2.4 - 4 KW generator.

bryan1

Just be carefull with your inverter purchase and most cheap ones are only mod-sine which aint worth a piece of crap in my book. I lashed out sometine ago and bought a 3kw pure sinewave inverter from Kipoint. They do advertise on ebay but I bought mine directly off them. I use this inverter in my shed and about the only things it wont run is my caddy welder, 2-1/2hp aircon and sometimes my big lathe due to the startup surge exceeding the 9kw rating of the inverter. I set my bridgeport up with a VFD and new 2hp 3 phase motor and now I can run the mill off the inverter with no troubles. I do recommend the kipoint inverter 1. for pricing and 2. I haven't had any problems with mine in near 2 years.

Cheers Bryan

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Flex

One way you can do so is looking at your panel(the main circuit bakers) to find out how many amp's it is, maybe about 100 amp or so. then take a look at your power bill.
the power company charges you by the kWh, figure in the total kWh per-day and that is you daily usage.
Over sizing the generator for more kW is good for those appliances/tools that can take up more power.

But this sizing of the generator/math should be based on the max power the house can use, this is so you can use other tools that say a contractor may use.

Also keep in mined that a residential home has 2 phases to power a range/oven, water heater, dryer, A/C unit, Heater. so you would have to ether buy a 2 phase generator or get 2 generators 1 phase.

I hope that helps...

Nigel Goodwin

I suggest you try filling your location in, as what you've posted doesn't apply to most of the world.

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Flex

Sorry from the US,

BTW: what is different? besides the voltage..

Nigel Goodwin

Most of the world doesn't use your strange 'two phase' system, electricity is distributed as three phase, with only a single phase and neutral being provided to domestic premises. Commercial premises can have the full three phase supply, giving 440V.

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saturn1bguy

Not quite.

In the US the single phase isn't supplied to any residence directly, but sources a nearby center-tapped transformer (for one or several homes), which delivers both legs and the center tap (neutral) to the home. And ground is tied to neutral at the transformer or the respective home's meter. Which means at least 3 conductors deliver power to a home.

Here in the US residential power is 120V/240V, with the lesser voltage being referenced to the center tap. (This is what some people confuse as "two-phase.")

Three-phase power at the user end varies in output levels, depending on what's needed. Most common here commercially is 120V/208V.

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arrie

Just as a kink in the question.

Are your stoves not run from 3-phase power in US?