I know this is a bit stale but if the poster is still here.

I use the Pulsar system and it works very well.

Some simple questions?

What is the problem you are having.
Is the toner not attaching to the paper?
Is the paper not letting go of the toner?
Is the toner not sticking to the copper?

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BCHS/3v0's Tutorials
Junebug USB PIC programmer kit., USB Bit Whacker,
The 15 Minute Printed Circuit Board! (+drill time)

 

How can i drill the PCB board without Cracks (It will soon broken when i drill it..............

 

What is the substrate PCB material ?
Some are more prone to breaking then others. Fiberglass would be good.

Use a sharp bit.

Do not push, let the drill do the cutting. Small bits heat quickly. Forcing them makes it worse. Hot drills go dull quickly. May only last a few holes.

Carbide bits stay sharper longer but break easily unless you use a drill press or drill stand. You should be using a drill stand or drill press.

Use a CNC machine

 

....... one of the most important things, drill speed (RPM), the higher the better.

 

Yup left that out.

To understand why small drills require high RPM you need to consider how fast the edge of the bit is moving. The edge speed is

edgeSpeed = pi* drillDiameter*rpm

The slower the bit edge moves the slower you need to feed the bit into the work. It is easy to ruin HSS bits by feeding them too fast at low rpm.

What sort of drill are you using ?

 

I use a dremel and one of these:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...d_i=B0000302Y5

Works like a charm, and you can get a board finished much faster than free-handing it.

 

One problem I have with the HCL etchant is that if you dont mix it correctly, it washes off the ink right off the board

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Man, that is good. I always had used ferric chloride to etch my boards. Ill try this new stuff soon.

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Intellin.org Get good electronic circuits reference books.

 

Having tried many methods over the years, including printing onto magazine pages,photo-resist etc. and I would say Press-n-Peel is one on the best I have found. It is quick, easy and fast and I have had spectacular results for my SMD work and double sided boards, with achievable edge definition and fine track widths far better than using paper. I use laser labels to stick correctly sized pieces of P-n-P to normal A4 sheets and have not had a 'jam' on my laser printer yet. As for cost, a 20 sheet pack shipped to Sheffield UK from Techniks in the USA is US$64.50 or about £33.00 which compared to Maplin where you get 5 sheets for £15.52 which is almost twice the price at £3.10 per sheet ! and you have to collect.

 

Even with straight 38% HCl, the ink I use, Brother brand, does not dissolve. What kind of ink are you using? I would try out another type if you can. When I was using OfficeMax to make the copies I did not have that problem either. I use a small amount of solution and immerse it while wiping gently with a sponge, and the only problem I had was the ink from OfficeMax chipping. I can rub pretty hard without the Brother ink coming off.

 

I used permanent marker (sharpie)

It works great if you have 2:1 Mixture, but dont experiment with different values. It works best.

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check out this site for PCB
http://technofreek.com/index.php?pg=10017

 

do you use that UV lamp for presensitized pcb? i don't think a black light can develop the presensitized pcb

 

What is the common commercial name for Hydrogen Peroxide?

TIA

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I've never heard any other name. Wikipedia lists:

μ-1κO,2κO’-Dioxidodihydrogen
Dihydrogen dioxide
Hydrogen dioxide
Dioxidane