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Cheap and good PCB etching solution.....

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  1. #11
    evandude evandude is offline
    Another tip for the tape method:
    the general method is to print the pattern on plain paper, then tape the PnP on, and print again; this way you can cut the PnP to just barely larger than the pattern and have very little waste. But, that means the first pass is a pretty big waste of toner. When I am doing designs that have a lot of copper area (and thus use a lot of toner) I usually open up the pattern in an image editor and change the color to a very light gray and print that the first time, or quickly draw an empty rectangle the size of the pattern and print that the first time.
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  2. Thread Starter #12
    Rolf Rolf is offline

    Simpler......

    Quote Originally Posted by evandude
    Another tip for the tape method:
    the general method is to print the pattern on plain paper, then tape the PnP on, and print again; this way you can cut the PnP to just barely larger than the pattern and have very little waste. But, that means the first pass is a pretty big waste of toner. When I am doing designs that have a lot of copper area (and thus use a lot of toner) I usually open up the pattern in an image editor and change the color to a very light gray and print that the first time, or quickly draw an empty rectangle the size of the pattern and print that the first time.
    To save toner; it is simpler {for me (when using PCB123)} to just draw a rectangle around the traces, then delete the trace layout. Then print just that layer, no need to go to a separate program. Lastly re-load the trace file and print your p-n-p.
    But for small board I don't even bother.
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  3. #13
    jolino jolino is offline
    Hi Rolf,
    I have been reluctant to feed tape through my laser jet
    I use "acetate" (A4 transparent film) are years on my HP1100 and no problem until now.

    Regards
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  4. #14
    jagrolet jagrolet is offline
    I have been using regular "Scotch Tape" for years to get the most out of my Press & Peel (the same method as "evandude"). I have never had a piece stuck in my laser printer or even had a piece come loose from the paper and Press & Peel. Ill continue using this method, but Im definately going to try the Muriatic Acid & Peroxide instead of the expensive Radio Shack ferric chloride. Man are they proud of that stuff.
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  5. #15
    muki55 muki55 is offline
    cool good etch
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  6. #16
    sparthacuz sparthacuz is offline

    many many thanks man!!

    simple but yet effective! you just saved my ass man. my medical officer and our janitor to include my commanding officer said how the hell did i etch the circuit without the procured solution?! thanks....
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  7. Thread Starter #17
    Rolf Rolf is offline
    Quote Originally Posted by sparthacuz
    simple but yet effective! you just saved my ass man. my medical officer and our janitor to include my commanding officer said how the hell did i etch the circuit without the procured solution?! thanks....
    There must be more to this story than you are telling us, sounds interesting, please fill us in.
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  8. #18
    Pommie Pommie is online now
    When diluting acid, the rule is "do as ya outa, add acid to water". An even simpler way to remember is to think how hard it would be to add swimming pool water to 5 liters of acid. BTW, this doesn't really matter with HCl but with H2SO4 it's a different matter, add water to conc sulphuric = steam explosion and you get to wear the acid.

    Also, if the CuCl method works then the first time you use HCl + H2O2 the end product is CuCl. Isn't it?

    Mike.
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  9. #19
    Pommie Pommie is online now
    After thinking about it, I'm very dubious about the copper chloride method. If the method worked then the HCl + H2O2 method would keep working as the spent solution contains CuCl2 which should get consumed to produce CuCl which is insoluble (1.5g/Ltr). People who have tried this report a green spent liquid which suggests CuCl2 does not react any further.

    Mike.
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  10. #20
    evandude evandude is offline
    http://members.optusnet.com.au/~esey...uCl/index.html

    That site has about all the information I think you'd need on the process. I also came across a PDF file that was some sort of information sheet about this process which is used in industry. I'm not an expert on the subject, but he does mention other factors in the process that would affect the etching ability of the Cupric chloride etchant, perhaps there's something else going on that's keeping it from working.
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    Last edited by evandude; 23rd October 2006 at 03:55 AM.

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