Boncuk,

Yes, Pin 8/16, power points... I see it now. Understood.

We do use Perspex (acrylic) lenses.

Perpsex has slightly higher light transferability than Lexan (polycarbonate). Glass, even tempered glass is too brittle for pressure diving. I can buy Perspex sheets for $20AU from our local glaziers.

Initially we used thick 6mm tempered glass, but after a flooding at 20M when one cracked we've gone to Perspex for the strength and flex. The only drawback is it's prone to melting or browning/burning if it gets too hot. For this reason we try not to turn on the big HIDs until we get underwater

We use different torches for different diving.

Night diving is the most critical. We carry two each. A main 35Watt HID for long-range focussed light, and a mask mounted LED for reading console instruments and working close.

Daytime diving we carry one light only...The larger LEDs I have been talking about, for compact under-ledge/cave illumination.

The photo is my 35W HID night torch, which has a 100mm diameter 10mm thick Perspex lens. Powered by two 5Ah 18650 Li-ion packs (12 batteries), at 3.5A gives 120mins-140mins (depending on battery quality) continuous light of about 2,500+ lumens, 5,000K light colour. Reflector is collimated so it's a true spotlight. The ballast is mounted outside the waterproof Otterbox where the water can cool it (it gets hot). The igniter is inside. Essentially these HIDs are sold as replacement vehicle headlights.

LED's are about 500 lumens, but far more compact. For the LED's, using an old Maglite torch using 10mm perspex is a bit too thick for the available bezel thread. We cut a 50mm disk and spin it in a lathe to cut a 'step'. The 10mm lens at the edge becomes a more usable 5mm. At 50mm diameter there is less surface area to flex under pressure so we are less concerned with catastrophic failure than the larger lights.

We try for around 5000+K colour temperature. This 'white' light is far more natural underwater than the 'dirty' yellow that incandescents give (around 3,500K).

I'm heading into RS Components to pick up the 4027's tomorrow. It may take a while as I need to order another LED head from the States. I'll post photos of the torch build as I go.

Cheers

Klem

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Guys,

You were interested in the unforgiving nature of salt-water under pressure, so I tracked down this page;

Dive light - Mac's Prawn Punisher I

It's a photo sequence on another blog of what happened to an earlier design of SCUBA torch

The 6mm tempered glass lasted until about 20 meters depth and then broke. That was when we started using Perspex.

DIY underwater torches...an expensive hobby

Klem
(Boncuk, RS stuffed up the order and so I'm still waiting for the FETs).

 

Boncuk,

Still waiting on the FET's so I've built a test circuit in the meantime with your circuit. It works prefectly.

I applied 8V and measured the voltage straight off the 470 resistors and got the following toggle sequence;

1. Both on (8V)
2. Both Off
3. A only
4. B only

Terrific!

I'll post again later when the torch is assembled

Cheers

Klem

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Hi Klem,

from my understanding it doesn't work perfectly yet.

I added a power up reset cap (resistor was already present) and now the sequence is as I planned:

1. all off
2. LED1 on
3. LED2 on
4. LED1 and 2 on
5. all off (again)

Please check the schematic and locate C3 (1µF electrolytic cap) connected between V+ and the clock input of IC1A.

This way the circuit is reset upon power up with no LED lit.

C3 offers an additional feature, since it limits the pushbutton trigger intervals with pauses of 400 to 500ms. (might be useful when trying to blind a shark, not inadvertantly switching off all LEDs in panic )

With this IC you won't need a power switch (main switch) for the battery. When no LED is switched on the circuit draws 120nA of current. When powering the circuit up initially the current flow is about 5mA for 1/2 second.

The PCB has become 0.1inch longer than the preceeding one.

Regards

Boncuk

Attached Files

DUO-TOGGLE-SWITCH-SCH.pdf (36.0 KB, 23 views)

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Proper Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance

 

Boncuk,

OK I'll give that a go

Nearest I have on hand at home is a 16V 10uF Electrolytic so I'll run by the store Monday

I can see the utility of not having the torch coming immediately on when you attach your battery pack. Saves immediately pressing the switch to turn it off.

Klem

 

Hi Boncuk,

I finally got round to building a test bed with all components of your original circuit (without the 1uF capacitor you recommended recently).

I'm using 2 LED modules, similar to what I will be using in the finished torch.

On applying the battery pack both LEDs immediately come on.
Then LED 1 only (pin 2 from the flip flop)
Then LED 2 only (pin 14 flip flop)
Then both on again

There is no 'both-off' in the switching sequence

This 3-part sequence continues with each momentary switch

I then introduced a 2u2 tantalum capacitor (I don't have a 1uF on hand) as in your ammended suggestion and nothing worked

No damage, as when I removed it was back to the 3-part sequence again.

Obviously we need to be able to have a both-off as there's only one momentary piezo switch on the torch

Can you advise please?

Klem

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Bon Bon sure is a nice fella isn't he ? Way to go Bonman

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Klem do you do night diving that requires the lamp? I only night dived once and I did not like it, I felt trapped in a box. Scared the crap out of me.

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Pay it forward.

 

Have you seen the dive mask with lamps built in? one on each side of the head, They look very cool. I suppose the cost is high though.

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Mikebits,

I like diving at night. makes a welcome change. We catch prawns here off the coast and in the river and also diffeerent fish come out at night. as long as you have a main spotlight and a back-up 'instrument' light (usually a small one hanging on side of facemask) there's no probs.

I find it quite peaceful actually

Listen, if you can provide someadvice on this earlier circuit diagram Boncuk sent would be most appreciated. just looking for someone to explain to a neandathal like me why there is no 'off' setting in the sequence with my rendering of his 4027 flip flop diagram.

cheers

Klem

 

Klemheist

I am building a dive light using 4 Cree r2s, aspheric lens and a Kaidomain P7 2.8 amp driver, I want to use the same piezo switch I used with the Genie,
Just a simple on and off can you describe a simple circuit for that use.

 

I suggested an idea in another waterproof switch thread. Get a normal small toggle (lever) switch. Then glue a lead sinker to the lever. Then a good hard bump in either direction will turn it on/off. Incredibly simple, can be used inside a totally hard pressure-proof torch casing, and uses no power when not turned on.

 

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