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Thread: Proportional Control Circuit w/ Thermocouple

  1. #91
    Andrew Leigh Newbie
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    Hi

    When I did my circuit (non PWM) I needed to balance the resistances of fixed resistor to themristor. Granted mine was a comparitor arrangement but the thinking may be the same. The resistance of your thermistor at target temperature is essential to know else you wont get any switching. I started with a 10k thermistor and the circuit would not work at all, changed to a 4k7 and viola.

    Check the specs and establish the resistance at 140°C, then make the value of your pot suitable to fine tune as you won't match resistances 100%. At 140°C a 100k thermistor will read about 1k6 ohms. I think you may struggle to get the kind of range you want from the PWM as a 100k thermistor has a swing of ± 600ohms in the 130 to 150°C range.


    Cheers
    Andrew
    Last edited by Andrew Leigh; 16th February 2009 at 04:51 AM. Reason: Removed opening line


  2. #92
    Dacr0n Newbie
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    ohh its switching alright.. just the wrong way..

    and the thermistor I have says that its 1,000Ω @ 200°C (231,440Ω @ 25°C), so I think it has less swing in the target area than ± 600ohms

    I just need to put the thermistor in a place that increases the power when the Ω's are higher and decreases it when its lower.

  3. #93
    Andrew Leigh Newbie
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    Hi,

    you have a NTC Thermistor, get a suitable a PTC Thermistor that should reverse the operation. If the variable pot is the device that sets the temp then surely the thermistor should be in series with that and the value of the pot reduced to compensate for the thermistor resistance at target temperature?

    Cheers
    Andrew

  4. #94
    Dacr0n Newbie
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    Well.... thats going to be tough Andrew... I've looked on the net for a PTC thermistor that is as small and fast sensing as the NTCs I have and there's nothing i can find to match it.

    The smallest PTCs I have found still have a 10 seconds max in still air thermal constant or whatever. Which is too slow..

    There's gotta be some way to put this NTC into the loop.....

    I have to figure out where in this circuit I can add this thing in. There has to be a place... its all math right? I just need a reversing factor.

    If I can make the NTC Thermistor lower the voltage a little somewhere in the circuit when it is @ room temp, increasing the output power, and vise vesra, will it not work?

  5. #95
    duffy Excellent duffy Excellent duffy Excellent duffy Excellent duffy Excellent duffy Excellent
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    It's in the right place if you put it where I said to. I took the trouble to build the circuit myself and double-check it on a scope and it behaves just like I said.

    Don't know what you're seeing, or why, but if that's really an NTC thermistor (did you measure it?) and you did what I said, it won't be going "the wrong way".

    Put a scope on the output of the 555 and look at it.

  6. #96
    Dacr0n Newbie
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    Alright... Progress...

    You were right duffy.

    It does work now... however I had to reverse pins 1 and 3 of the pot to get it going in the right direction now...

    I think how the kit maker layed the pot out on board is different from the schematic.(pins 1 and 3 reversed)

    Maybe that explains why, when I turned the POT Clockwise the power was reduced...(Isn't it usually supposed to be the opposite?) and power increased when it was turned CCW.

    Anyways.. thats history... the power is high until the thermistor gets some heat... then I can see the element cooling off...

    Now I've got some tweaking to do...

    Here are a few rough numbers from the bench:

    I heated a hot plate to 150 degrees( verified by 2 different thermocouples/meters) and placed the thermistor on the surface with the ohm meter hooked up, waited for it to stabilize and got a reading of about 1,200 ohms.

    When it cooled to room temp again it went back up to 255,000 Ohms, so its pretty close to the spec sheet.

    *tweaking in progress...*

    Whoa... I turned the pot to full power and tried it out and the 1MFD Electrolytic cap started smoking....

    and the heating element emits a very high frequency sound when the power is low.

    Is this changing the pulse frequency or the duty cycle?
    Last edited by Dacr0n; 16th February 2009 at 11:56 PM.

  7. #97
    Dacr0n Newbie
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    After a bit of brainstorming, I had a thought.

    What if:

    I have a heating element .....

    and assuming all calculations are made with a constant volume of air flowing,

    if I knew the "effectiveness of heat transfer" of the element, could I not then, create a circuit based on an equation that, with out even knowing the exhaust air temp, calculates the power supplied to the element by knowing the ambient temperature (intake temp) and heating coefficient?


    Ex. If I tested heater A @ 25 degrees C., with a fixed air velocity, and the exit temp was 100 degrees C. I could then know the heat transfer coefficient right?


    If I base a the power control part of the PWM circuit on an equation that measures ambient temp and knows the heat transfer coefficient of the element (at a fixed velocity) could I not just make a circuit to set the power as X when the ambient temp is Y when the unit is on?

    Get what I am saying? Given that all my control factors are tight..(air flow, heat transfer coefficient right, etc..)

  8. #98
    Leftyretro Excellent Leftyretro Excellent Leftyretro Excellent Leftyretro Excellent
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dacr0n View Post
    After a bit of brainstorming, I had a thought.

    What if:

    I have a heating element .....

    and assuming all calculations are made with a constant volume of air flowing,

    if I knew the "effectiveness of heat transfer" of the element, could I not then, create a circuit based on an equation that, with out even knowing the exhaust air temp, calculates the power supplied to the element by knowing the ambient temperature (intake temp) and heating coefficient?


    Ex. If I tested heater A @ 25 degrees C., with a fixed air velocity, and the exit temp was 100 degrees C. I could then know the heat transfer coefficient right?


    If I base a the power control part of the PWM circuit on an equation that measures ambient temp and knows the heat transfer coefficient of the element (at a fixed velocity) could I not just make a circuit to set the power as X when the ambient temp is Y when the unit is on?

    Get what I am saying? Given that all my control factors are tight..(air flow, heat transfer coefficient right, etc..)
    That would be in effect mostly open loop control. Control based on assumption of values and characteristic reactions and only using ambient temperature to up date the assumtions. Such is not the why to go grasshopper.

    Measure and use the variable that you wish to control, that and only that should be your primary control objective.

    Lefty
    Measurement changes behavior

  9. #99
    duffy Excellent duffy Excellent duffy Excellent duffy Excellent duffy Excellent duffy Excellent
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dacr0n View Post
    Whoa... I turned the pot to full power and tried it out and the 1MFD Electrolytic cap started smoking....

    and the heating element emits a very high frequency sound when the power is low.

    Is this changing the pulse frequency or the duty cycle?
    That's a power supply cap, sounds like it's too low for your source. Try 100µf. Make sure the voltage rating is at least 16V.

    The sound is normal. This circuit changes both the PWM and the frequency. The frequency change won't matter to a resistive load, only the PWM change.


    Lefty's right about your open-loop design.

    If you are serious about accuracy, it's naive to keep pretending airflow thermodynamics is simple. Look up "Reynolds number" on Wikipedia.

  10. #100
    Super Rad Newbie
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    Strangely enough, I'm about to build the exact same thing!

    Heated nichrome wire coiled in a ceramic ~1/2in i.d. tube, with a small amount of air blown through. I'm even trying for a similar temp. range, of about 120-240C, and have been looking into similar control circuits.

    I'm very curious as to how your project is shaping up.

    What Thermistor are you looking at? And how am I supposed to use a pot to select a temperature in a linear fashion when a thermistor's response to temperature is non-linear?

  11. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by Super Rad View Post
    Strangely enough, I'm about to build the exact same thing!
    And what is it for? An HHO car?
    Bill
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    http://www.blueroomelectronics.com/

  12. #102
    Super Rad Newbie
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    Well, my last response seems to be "lost" in the moderation queue.

    blueroomelectronics:

    You seem pretty convinced that an "HHO Car" is the only use for hot air...

    To be honest, I've never heard of an HHO car, and I don't even want to bother looking them up. I trust this forum when they say that whatever they are is a waste of time.

    What I'm trying to build is just a toned down hot air soldering iron. A DIY hack proof already exists on the internet:

    DIY Hot Air Soldering Iron using 12-18volts DC at 2-3 amps

    DIY Hot Air Soldering Iron using 12-18volts DC at 2-3 amps

    The only difference is I want to implement temperature control, either by relay or by PI control over PWM. Also, I don't necessarily need to go as high as 350C, but that would be a bonus.
    Last edited by Super Rad; 27th February 2009 at 04:37 AM. Reason: Test

  13. #103
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    Well I doubt a temperature controlled hot air soldering iron is what the OP had in mind. If the heater is AC powered a SCR or TRIAC would be better than a Relay. Also with AC you'll need to use a zero crossing circuit and a snubber. You won't need the same speed and accuracy DarcOn is looking for.

    The project is going to be a 100% hydrogen fueled electricity generator.
    The point I was trying to make was if you're using electricity to generate Hydrogen then using Hydrogen to run an electric generator you're simply designing a very inefficent method of creating electricity (using the Hydrogen as a storage medium)

    It's a guess on my part to what DarcOn is acutally doing.
    Bill
    Smart Kits build Smart People

    http://www.blueroomelectronics.com/

  14. #104
    duffy Excellent duffy Excellent duffy Excellent duffy Excellent duffy Excellent duffy Excellent
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    Yeah, I'm not impressed with hydrogen as an energy storage medium, either. Loads of tanks compressed to insane pressures and even then the range is crappy. Conversion loss to go from electricity to hydrogen, another conversion loss from hydrogen back to electricity. Hydrogen seems to be more of a cult than anything.

  15. #105
    Super Rad Newbie
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    Hahaha, the market is just looking for ANY physical form of energy that you can be made to pay for at a pump (why rework the entire transportation market right?). As far as I'm concerned gasoline is already a cult...

    What's even funnier is that commercials claim that Hydrogen would be a truly zero-emission fuel, completely ignoring the tremendous costs of forming and transporting hydrogen gas.


    I guess I missed that post of Dacr0n's where he states he's building a hydrogen generator...

    I've been trying to read up on zero cross circuit, but I'm getting confused. Do I need to implement one if I control the triac gate through a smoothed-DC thermostat circuit? Could I also use an "alternistor" or snubberless triac and avoid the need for a snubber (or will the "fourth quadrant" failing of alternistors interrupt proper switching)?

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