Of course, that goes without saying. I haven't tested hundreds of printers, plus with marketing how it is '1200x1200' doesn't mean much. And frankly, neither does price.

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Thanks i have to read all of this in a minute lol

Hey anyone got any links to eagle tutorials and 1 big question i have...

When routing and using a laser printer what is the best mill to use? if i have a 600dpi laser and am using toner transfer with that Blue Transfer sheet or the TTS.

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By TTS I think you mean the Pulsar Toner Transfer System paper.

In regard to line width and spacing it depends on the what you are laying out.

If a board has the room I use 12 mil for signals and larger for power and ground. If it is a compact board I use 10 mils for the signals.
Spacing between various parts of the artwork is just as important as the width of the traces. I would bump up the spacing in the DRC to at least 10 mil and make the via size even larger then that.


My advice is to start with a simple board. Maybe the cable tester you talked about today. Do not try to make it too compact.

ERC and DRC are you friends. One the first rev of a board I nearly always find a few things that I can change to make it easier to build/solder.

Do not waste a lot of time if you have problems. Ask for help.

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Hello,

Whatever you do, dont get a Brother printer. I had purchased a Brother a
while back and then went to try it with PNP transfer paper and found out
that it doesnt work. The reason is that Brother uses a different type of
toner than the other printers. I read this on the web too. I've also
read that a non Brother replacement toner cartridge might work, but
i wasnt about to spend another 40 bucks just to find out for sure.

The Samsung ML2510 definitely works with PNP transfer paper.
The single sheet feed is a little strange though, but it works.

I tried many iron settings and printer settings with the Brother and NEVER
got it to work. On my first try, i got the Samsung to work even with a sort
of medium iron setting.

 

ok cool i guess i just have to buy the printer now i have some other non Pulsar Toner Transfer System paper. I have the "Press-n-peel Blue - PCB Transfer Paper" as sold in dipmicro but will switch to the Pulsar paper mainly becasue its more popular and they have that silk screen stuff and the green ttf so i can make sure i get it 100%

Thanks for the tips. Ill go out on Wednesday(get paid tuesday night) to buy my printer and test out the 2 sheets of blue press n peel i own. Ill print out a full test like ill make a eagle board with about 2x 20 pin headers connected to each other with varying mil sizes for each.

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I do not know if you have settled on a printer. You can call or email pulsar and they will be glad to help you select on that will work. Better to do so prior to the purchase

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I emailed them now to wait and see what they say

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test out the 2 sheets of blue press n peel i own.


I used to use this stuff, very expensive, and could be difficult to get consistent adhesion when ironing onto the copper board.

Followed this forums earlier PCB threads about using a printed page from a glossy magazine to laser print to - it really works - good image quality and so much more tolerant when ironing onto the copper board.

Contrary to the previous comment about Brother printers not working - well I've used 2 HL2030s over 4 years without any problems - got two as when I needed to replace the toner and drum, it was cheaper to buy a complete new unit in the new year sales, than the replacement cartridges!

 

Hi again,

The Brother printer issue is related to the more recent models.
I guess it could also vary from model to model though, but i
wouldnt buy this brand again. Dont get me wrong, for standard
laser printing of text it works great, but it doesnt work at all
for PNP transfer paper. It has high resolution too.