need help to design a water sprinkler for house - Page 2 - Electronic Circuits Projects Diagrams Free

palin_81 · 18th June 2008, 07:13 AM

the lower the cost the best but i prefer to spend approx around 50-70usd.Robert,do u have a pic to show about ur previous project?maybe we can share and i might have a clear picture about it...sound interesting...

palin_81 · 18th June 2008, 07:26 AM

guys i have a few choices of item to show here but how do i insert the picture inside this forum?

rjvh · 18th June 2008, 07:31 AM

that's a very limited budget
considering that you need a pump pipes and controls

for that buget you can't use any metal pipes

even the grid system with storage tank is not posible

you would be better of to use than a different set up

the simplest thing you can make is simple pipe work (pvc)

drill small holes in it 1 a 2 mm

put it on the roof and conect that on the city water system with a solenoid valve

the solenoid valve is operated by a temp sensor conected on the roof

you will have the build up of minerals and somtimes algea on the roof over time

What material is the roof annyway??

Robert-Jan

rjvh · 18th June 2008, 07:34 AM

if you reply the advance way than you can browse in your computer and attach pictures if they're not to big

Robert-Jan

palin_81 · 18th June 2008, 07:45 AM

which one work best?which type?

rjvh · 18th June 2008, 07:58 AM

they al work good but are absolut useless for roof sprinkeling

its better to use a sort of drip line (pipe with wholes drilled in) and put that on your roof

Robert-Jan

palin_81 · 18th June 2008, 09:36 AM

im not sure the material they use for the roof but i will find it after.I find this project as an approch to go more,that's why i started in low budget as a start.Anyway your guys really helpfull.Thanks,but one thing can anyone help me to design such circuit that able to control valve with the help of termistor/heat sensor?

rjvh · 18th June 2008, 10:09 AM

just use a simple comparator with on one input a voltage divider including a thermistor for switching a triac (as the soilenoid valves i know of are all AC (relais will work also))

Sucses
Robert-Jan

crutschow · 18th June 2008, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HarveyH42

Would be a decent project using stored rain water. We are frequently considered to be in a drought condition. Don't think it would go over well, but could definitely use some additional cooling during the hot days.

An added advantage of rain water is that its soft with few minerals so it shouldn't leave spots on the roof.

**3v0** · 18th June 2008, 05:49 PM

I posted a link to this earlier but it seems you did not read it. It explains how to buld a roof cooling system on the cheap.

North Carolina System

Quote:

A comment on roof evaporative cooling system. I was involved back in about 1984 on a roof top system here near the coast of NC with a similar, although simpler and cheaper system which I will attempt to explain in detail.

This was done on insulated poultry houses and my home. The timer set up was similar with the exception of we ran for approximately 3 min out of 15 and adjusted for max benefit. We attempted to have zero run-off to maximize the water to heat removal ratio -- this would be adjusted for your area etc. I don't remember the exact timer used but it was a one hour repeatable timer -- very inexpensive. We ran from water supply with 1/2 pvc to peak of roof. The pipe was then run across peak of roof using plastic conduit clamps.
Before putting the pipe on roof we perforated it every 3 ft with a NAIL. We found the easiest way was to use a drill press turned off and press the nail point until it just perforated the pipe (this took time but after depth was determined, it went quickly). I actually used a bench grinder and flattened out the flat sides effectively sharpening the edges on a number 8 nail before use. This created a diamond shaped pattern which caused the water to fan out somewhat instead of a stream. We experimented with hole placement at different pressures etc and achieved some dramatic results from this. The 300 ft poultry houses saw an "attic" temp decrease, measured at peak of roof, of an average of 30 degrees during a 20 day period in July- August when roof temps were 115 -120 degree avg. My home which I ran slightly longer cycles due to black shingles I ended up running about 3 min in 10 and saw dramatic attic temp drops which I don't have documented but I remember being in the same range as poultry house but having more effect inside the house due to different cooling types. This was very inexpensive I actually used a defrost timer from an old refrigerator and cut notches with grinder to activate solenoid. Use this and experiment and let us hear results.

rjvh · 19th June 2008, 01:55 AM

the sprinkler system showed in the link is not realy perfect

they create a mist to cool the air above the roof down before it actualy hits the roof
the water is already warmed up a bit and less in quantity (evaporation)

a drip line brings the water direct in contact what you want to cool down so it's more efficient
its also cheaper to build

as for the water quality rainwater is indeed good if you see it in the terms of containing minerals and if you in south east asia it's also safe to drink

but in europe you will be shoked how much polution is in the rain water and because of that you can have also different problems with build ups on the surface where you releas it of course this doesn't hapen in a half year

closed systems that cool down by convection are way better but the initial instalation cost will be higher still than if you do the work your self they're still a money safer over the years

Robert-Jan

palin_81 · 19th June 2008, 09:40 AM

thanks everyone for the idea,i will start doing it using direct drip as per rjhv advise.This might help and good too in term of cost.3vo,thanks also and actually i have read it and a few point might be good to implement it.Thanks u guys,u all very helpfull.now i have something to work on......

**3v0** · 19th June 2008, 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by palin_81

thanks everyone for the idea,i will start doing it using direct drip as per rjhv advise.This might help and good too in term of cost.3vo,thanks also and actually i have read it and a few point might be good to implement it.Thanks u guys,u all very helpfull.now i have something to work on......

If you take that system and make the holes a bit deeper it will drip. A bit more deeper and it will run.

rjvh · 19th June 2008, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by palin_81

thanks everyone for the idea,i will start doing it using direct drip as per rjhv advise.This might help and good too in term of cost.3vo,thanks also and actually i have read it and a few point might be good to implement it.Thanks u guys,u all very helpfull.now i have something to work on......

sucses with your project
if any questions do arise don't hesitate to ask

keep in mind that you first start with small holes in the pipe and see what the effect is regarding the pressure and water quantity

use Upvc pipe if it is subject to UV light from the sun, any metal pipe is also good but already more expensive and harder to plumb your self for the most people

no PVC or HDPE as these pipes not realy last in the sun

Robert-Jan

HiTech · 19th June 2008, 02:27 PM

If you or others live in a climate zone that requires a roof to be sprinkled on sunny, hot days, why not have the roofing material be ceramic tiles... just like it is along the Mediterranian, Mexico and so on?

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18th June 2008, 07:13 AM	(permalink)
palin_81	the lower the cost the best but i prefer to spend approx around 50-70usd.Robert,do u have a pic to show about ur previous project?maybe we can share and i might have a clear picture about it...sound interesting...

18th June 2008, 07:26 AM	(permalink)
palin_81	guys i have a few choices of item to show here but how do i insert the picture inside this forum?

18th June 2008, 07:31 AM	(permalink)
rjvh	that's a very limited budget considering that you need a pump pipes and controls for that buget you can't use any metal pipes even the grid system with storage tank is not posible you would be better of to use than a different set up the simplest thing you can make is simple pipe work (pvc) drill small holes in it 1 a 2 mm put it on the roof and conect that on the city water system with a solenoid valve the solenoid valve is operated by a temp sensor conected on the roof you will have the build up of minerals and somtimes algea on the roof over time What material is the roof annyway?? Robert-Jan

18th June 2008, 07:34 AM	(permalink)
rjvh	if you reply the advance way than you can browse in your computer and attach pictures if they're not to big Robert-Jan

18th June 2008, 07:58 AM	(permalink)
rjvh	they al work good but are absolut useless for roof sprinkeling its better to use a sort of drip line (pipe with wholes drilled in) and put that on your roof Robert-Jan

18th June 2008, 09:36 AM	(permalink)
palin_81	im not sure the material they use for the roof but i will find it after.I find this project as an approch to go more,that's why i started in low budget as a start.Anyway your guys really helpfull.Thanks,but one thing can anyone help me to design such circuit that able to control valve with the help of termistor/heat sensor?

18th June 2008, 10:09 AM	(permalink)
rjvh	just use a simple comparator with on one input a voltage divider including a thermistor for switching a triac (as the soilenoid valves i know of are all AC (relais will work also)) Sucses Robert-Jan

19th June 2008, 01:55 AM	(permalink)
rjvh	the sprinkler system showed in the link is not realy perfect they create a mist to cool the air above the roof down before it actualy hits the roof the water is already warmed up a bit and less in quantity (evaporation) a drip line brings the water direct in contact what you want to cool down so it's more efficient its also cheaper to build as for the water quality rainwater is indeed good if you see it in the terms of containing minerals and if you in south east asia it's also safe to drink but in europe you will be shoked how much polution is in the rain water and because of that you can have also different problems with build ups on the surface where you releas it of course this doesn't hapen in a half year closed systems that cool down by convection are way better but the initial instalation cost will be higher still than if you do the work your self they're still a money safer over the years Robert-Jan

19th June 2008, 09:40 AM	(permalink)
palin_81	thanks everyone for the idea,i will start doing it using direct drip as per rjhv advise.This might help and good too in term of cost.3vo,thanks also and actually i have read it and a few point might be good to implement it.Thanks u guys,u all very helpfull.now i have something to work on......

19th June 2008, 02:27 PM	(permalink)
HiTech	If you or others live in a climate zone that requires a roof to be sprinkled on sunny, hot days, why not have the roofing material be ceramic tiles... just like it is along the Mediterranian, Mexico and so on? __________________ Don't make me reach through this monitor to slap you a good one!