Magic: The Mini-magic Switchboard should I make it a kit? - Page 11 - Electronic Circuits Projects Diagrams Free

**3v0** · 28th January 2008, 05:17 AM

This is a first draft of the code for the board with the bulb sensing circuit. I seems to be working but I am sure there are bugs and room for improvement. It has only been tested a few times during development.

I will not have time to work on the code much during the week. With that in mind I have opted to share it.

It is written in CCS which is not free for the 16F88. The code compiles to 511 words of memory. Could be smaller without the debug code but who cares ?

The program does not use any hardware other then the ports.

The HEX file is in the attached zip folder.

EDIT: If you build a board from my layout(s) check the pinout (EBC/CBE) of your transistors. It may not match what is show. The foil artwork is OK, it is just a matter of which way you face the transistors.

wmmullaney · 28th January 2008, 01:38 PM

Why do you like C over ASM?

I'd always rather use ASM.

**3v0** · 28th January 2008, 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wmmullaney

Why do you like C over ASM?

I'd always rather use ASM.

The PC you do your development on is a computer so why not let it do more of the work for you.

I use C because it is easier on my brain! Actualy C code is said to be faster to develope and easier to maintain. Granted a person who is very good at a given assembler can do quite well.

I am used to using C. When I work all our development was done in C. If we needed more speed we would drop in a bit of assembler but that was rare.

It is easier to move from processor to process using C. I still have to understand the processor but I do not have to be fluent in it. If you change the port definitions a few other bits on the Switchboard code it will run on any processor hooked to 4 switches and 4 transistors driving bulbs

I have no problem with people uisng ASM of any sort. I have been there, done that, on a number of machines. Moved on if you will.

bananasiong · 28th January 2008, 04:09 PM

I'm also ASM user, but I know that C is used in many industrial. I wanted to learn up C for 24F during the semester break, but didn't seem to have enough time. Hopefully I can get to learn it soon. It is useless without any action

maurilio · 1st February 2008, 01:38 PM

dear 3vO
could you tell me if I could buy from you the electronic already done
thanks
maurilio

**3v0** · 1st February 2008, 02:06 PM

I have succeeded in coloring bulbs.

The method is inspired by the page Mark posted.

I did all my mixing in a single 1 liter soda bottle cap. Rinse clean after each color.

To make the bulbs easier to handle wrap masking tape around the base and add a tab below the bulb. This tab makes them easier to handle.

To color the bulbs I added about 1/3 to 1/2 parts water to 1 part Elmer's while glue. I then mixed in several drops of food coloring. To get a color you like start with a drop or two of coloring and increase as desired. You can dip the bulb/roll the bulb in the mixture to see how it looks. If you do not like it just rinse off the glue and try again.

The bulbs will dry to a hazy lackluster finish. To correct this and to add durability spray the bulbs with clear acrylic spray, dry between coats.

That's it. Have fun.

**3v0** · 2nd February 2008, 08:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by maurilio

dear 3vO
could you tell me if I could buy from you the electronic already done
thanks
maurilio

No. I do not sell kits or assembled units.

abrell · 2nd February 2008, 03:45 PM

There exists some special enamel for light bulbs. Normally you can get red, yellow, green and blue enamel. In Germany you can get it from Conrad Electronics and Westfalia.

I would like to built a bigger version of this project with 230 volts main input and 4 sockets of the type E27. Coloured bulbs (230 V, 15 W) are a common item, so I would not need to paint the light bulbs. Has anybody designed a circuit design for this? I would try some triacs and a LC- unit to prevent electromagnetic problems. Of course the main PCB would need a power supply and there should be a fuse in the mains supply.

**3v0** · 2nd February 2008, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by abrell

There exists some special enamel for light bulbs. Normally you can get red, yellow, green and blue enamel. In Germany you can get it from Conrad Electronics and Westfalia.

I would like to built a bigger version of this project with 230 volts main input and 4 sockets of the type E27. Coloured bulbs (230 V, 15 W) are a common item, so I would not need to paint the light bulbs. Has anybody designed a circuit design for this? I would try some triacs and a LC- unit to prevent electromagnetic problems. Of course the main PCB would need a power supply and there should be a fuse in the mains supply.

Use the existing circuit. The same transistors can drive relays instead of a bulbs. You could use triacs or solid state relays but since it switches infrequently relays would work fine.

Good to know about the special paint.

This is what my glue bulbs look like, not too tacky

**Nigel Goodwin** · 2nd February 2008, 04:48 PM

Doesn't look quite as good as the original

Early days yet though - and love the bulbs!.

blueroomelectronics · 2nd February 2008, 04:57 PM

It does look magical.

**3v0** · 2nd February 2008, 05:15 PM

Thanks.

If I get to it I will put it into a box today.

The thing would be a lot easier to debug if the RB6-7 were dedicated to the debugger. If I lay this thing out again I will move the switches down to RB0-3 and add the pullup resistors.

Not sure if that is going to happen as I need to get back to the robot stuff.

Pommie · 2nd February 2008, 05:15 PM

Those bulbs look excellent. I expected them to look a bit naff. Guess I'll be buying some food dye tomorrow. What is a common use for the clear acrylic spray and where might I buy it, model shop?

@abrell,
I don't think using 250V bulbs is a good idea. However careful you are there is always the chance of a shock and they also get too hot to handle.

Mike.

Pommie · 2nd February 2008, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3v0

The thing would be a lot easier to debug if the RB6-7 were dedicated to the debugger. If I lay this thing out again I will move the switches down to RB0-3 and add the pullup resistors.

That was one of the reasons I did my own board.

Mike.

**3v0** · 2nd February 2008, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pommie

Those bulbs look excellent. I expected them to look a bit naff. Guess I'll be buying some food dye tomorrow. What is a common use for the clear acrylic spray and where might I buy it, model shop?.

Mike.

The stuff I used is called SparVar. One would think that would be a spar varnish but it is acrylic.

I think you should be able to find it if you look for clear acrylic in a spray can.

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1st February 2008, 02:06 PM	(permalink)
3v0	I have succeeded in coloring bulbs. The method is inspired by the page Mark posted. I did all my mixing in a single 1 liter soda bottle cap. Rinse clean after each color. To make the bulbs easier to handle wrap masking tape around the base and add a tab below the bulb. This tab makes them easier to handle. To color the bulbs I added about 1/3 to 1/2 parts water to 1 part Elmer's while glue. I then mixed in several drops of food coloring. To get a color you like start with a drop or two of coloring and increase as desired. You can dip the bulb/roll the bulb in the mixture to see how it looks. If you do not like it just rinse off the glue and try again. The bulbs will dry to a hazy lackluster finish. To correct this and to add durability spray the bulbs with clear acrylic spray, dry between coats. That's it. Have fun. __________________ search engine for electronic parts Junebug USB PIC programmer kit., USB Bit Wacker, 3v0's Homepage The 15 Minute Printed Circuit Board! (+drill time)

2nd February 2008, 03:45 PM	(permalink)
abrell	There exists some special enamel for light bulbs. Normally you can get red, yellow, green and blue enamel. In Germany you can get it from Conrad Electronics and Westfalia. I would like to built a bigger version of this project with 230 volts main input and 4 sockets of the type E27. Coloured bulbs (230 V, 15 W) are a common item, so I would not need to paint the light bulbs. Has anybody designed a circuit design for this? I would try some triacs and a LC- unit to prevent electromagnetic problems. Of course the main PCB would need a power supply and there should be a fuse in the mains supply.

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2nd February 2008, 05:15 PM	(permalink)
3v0	Thanks. If I get to it I will put it into a box today. The thing would be a lot easier to debug if the RB6-7 were dedicated to the debugger. If I lay this thing out again I will move the switches down to RB0-3 and add the pullup resistors. Not sure if that is going to happen as I need to get back to the robot stuff. __________________ search engine for electronic parts Junebug USB PIC programmer kit., USB Bit Wacker, 3v0's Homepage The 15 Minute Printed Circuit Board! (+drill time)

2nd February 2008, 05:15 PM	(permalink)
Pommie	Those bulbs look excellent. I expected them to look a bit naff. Guess I'll be buying some food dye tomorrow. What is a common use for the clear acrylic spray and where might I buy it, model shop? @abrell, I don't think using 250V bulbs is a good idea. However careful you are there is always the chance of a shock and they also get too hot to handle. Mike.