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| Hi, Well I want to make a simple bench PSU which will give out: +-12V @ 1A and +-5V @ 1A. Looking through my CPC catalogue, I've made the following design [Attached]. (Although the -12V is now limited to 0.5A, due to the limitations of CPC. Parts list and prices: Code: Parts list (CPC Part Numbers) - Prices in GBP, excluding VAT [ Ref - CPC Part # - Description - Price (Total) ] T1 - FF01553 - 60VA Toroidal 2x15V - £10.85 BR1 - SC05773 - KBPC601 (50V, 6A Bridge Rectifier) - £1.97 RG1 - SCL78S12CV - L78S12CV (+12V, 2A Regulator) - £0.99 RG2 - SCL7912CV - L7912CV (-12V, 1.5A Regulator) - £0.72 RG3 - SCMC7805CT - MC7805CT (+5V, 1A Regulator) - £0.26 RG4 - SC05482 - MC7905CT (-5V, 1A Regulator) - £0.39 C1 & C2 - CA04567 - Aluminium Electrolytic 2200uF 50V - £3.10 C3 & C7 - CA04503 - Aluminium Electrolytic 3.3uF 50V - £0.20 C4 & C8 - CA04506 - Aluminium Electrolytic 22uF 50V - £0.26 C5 & C9 - CA04501 - Aluminium Electrolytic 1uF 50V - £0.20 C6 & C10 - CA04558 - Aluminium Electrolytic 10uF 50V - £0.14 D1 - LP00348 - 12V 5mm Green LED - £1.37 SW1 F1 - FF00394 - 3.15A TD 1 1/4" Fuse (10 Pack) - £1.18 F2 & F4 & F5 - FF01404 - 1A QB 20mm Fuse (10 Pack) - £0.58 F3 - FF01393 - 500mA QB 20mm Fuse (10 Pack) - £1.13 *Others: Fuse Holders (x4) - FF01330 - 20mm Fuse Holders (x4) - £1.04 Mains Inlet - CN09935 - Power Socket, Fuse Holder, Switch Module - £3.25 Regulator Insulators - SCW353PK - TO-220 Insulators (10 Pack) - £1.85 Case Heatsink *Total Price (+Case and Heatsink): Without VAT = £29.48 With VAT = £34.64 1) Suggestions / Improvements ? 2) What size heatsink would I need for ALL the regulators AND the bridge rectifier ? Note: The regulators and bridge rectifier will be mounted to the side of a small die-cast aluminium case, with the heatsink bolted to the outside. Thanks, -Andrew. | |
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| Why bother building it? Any old PC power supply will meet those requirements. They're easy to modify with a few binding posts and a toggle switch.
__________________ "Because I be what I be. I would tell you what you want to know if I could, mum, but I be a cat, and no cat anywhere ever gave anyone a straight answer, har har." | |
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| You have a good point, before I started designing and pricing it up, I expected it to be a LOT cheaper. The problem with a PC PSU is that the output is "noisey". I have quite a few old PSU's lying around, guess I might just make a nice case for one. Thanks. | |
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*Don’t you like to put the POWER ON LED near one of the 2200uF capacitor? But when comparing the size, price & the transformer it’s worthwhile to convert an ATX power unit for your workbench like Sceadwin points out. Here some useful links to you. http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Com...b-Power-Supply http://web2.murraystate.edu/andy.bat...OWERSUPPLY.HTM | ||
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| Never realised a PSU would need such headroom, so thanks for pointing that out. The reason for the LED's position is it's more of a PSU Is Ok LED, so if both the +5V and -5V rails are working, you can assume that the rest of the PSU is working fine. Thanks for the links, I would have forgotten to put a load resistor on it without them. | |
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__________________ I also post at the following sites: http://www.stop-microsoft.org http://www.heated-debates.com Screen name: Aloone_Jonez And http://www.silicontronics.com, same screen name as here. | ||
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| True true, that sounds like the best option. A lot cheaper than building one anyway. Thanks. | |
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