Hi all

I am about to start a new project for a USB controller board for controlling solenoids on pneumatic valves, this is the Valve control module, which will daisy-chain to another transistor board and then to the 24vdc solenoids.

I would like to start off by doing the toner printer/transfer method for this board, as I've never made a PCB before. Do you think it will be possible on this board? Dimensions are 65mm x 59mm. Here is the board:



If the traces are too thin, could I use my Adobe photoshop and make the traces a bit thicker (I'm a graphic designer, so this is easy for me)? I really dont want to get involved with the expense of a photoresist setup, as I'm not sure I will be making many of these.

Help please!

THanks guys!

 

I would recommend something a bit simpler for your first boad but this board isn't too complex for torner transfer although I would tend to choose the photoresist method for something like this.

How thick are the tracks?

I generally wouldn't go below 0.25mm but I normally use 0.5mm as there's no point in making it any harder than it needs to be.

I've had good results from magazine paper but others here will probably swear by other proprietary papers such as Press 'n' Peal which might be a better option here.

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magazine paper? Like just find an old magazine and pull out one of the centre pages and print on that? Over all the ink thats on the page already?

Is this the correct board to use for this project?

http://www.rssouthafrica.com/cgi-bin...eID=zanetscape

 

sorry to state the obvious, but you'll want to remove the gray components layout information from your artwork, since you're printer will either print it as black, or as some sort of dithered, either way, it'll mess up the pcb

since you mention retouching things, filling in the drill-holes so there's only a dot in the center will help make it easier to drill. some of the clearances are pretty tight there, for example the one trace leaving the usb connector makes a few 90 degree turns and to me, it looks like it nicks the other pad of the usb connector.

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If time is money, then invest a few bucks and get Press-N-Peel. It eliminate the hassle of removing the paper, it lets you peal it of, in a fraction of a second.
Why not use a free program like ExpressPCB it allows you to print any or a combination of top, bottom and silk screen.
And if you are going to use thin traces the problem is that the outside of 90° corners will be etched too thin, use two 45°'s instead.
The problem with making a number of PCB's is the hassle of drilling of holes.
This can be speeded up by stacking a number of them, I usually do four or five.
Also when you don't have plated through holes any repair is more likely to damage the PCB.
If you Skype I'll be glad to talk to you about this.

Rolf

Edit:
I checked one supplier and his cost of a commercial board like this, double sided plated through holes with no silk screen. Including postage to USA:
10ea - about $11ea
100ea - about $5ea

 

Yes, I've done it many times before!

Print on the paper, iron on (use the highest heat setting and as much pressure as you can apply), leave to soak in cold water for ten miniutes and wipe off with a sponge.

Always make sure the board is well polished and etch as soon as you've managed to remove all the paper. If they're any gaps in the tracks then don't panic, use a permanent marker to fill them.

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This method works 100% of the time for me!

Just remember to let it soak for a while.. the longer it soaks the easier it is to pull off.

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To do it right you just need to print it out using a laser printer then heating the board then using an iron, iron on the transfer.
Etch board and your done.
Regular ink jet printing won't work. The lazer printer leaves behind a plastic film when tansfering the impression.

 

the layout consistis components' image also as pointed out by justDIY,
it is better to search for the solder side artwork and that too to 1:1 size for toner tranfer method.

otherwise you may be disappointed by the result and go on scrapping unwanted copper later.

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After you've printed the design always lay the components out on the print-out before you even consider transferring and etching it.

I've only made one error on e PCB before and luckily I didn't even have to re-etch it. All I had done was made the rows of pins a little too narrow on a 40 pin ZIF socket so all I needed to do was drill the holes slightly bigger. I did try bending the pins on the ZIF, which stopped it from working properly but fortunately no damage was done as it regained normal operation when I bent the pins back.

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I do not answer private messages asking for help because no one else can: benefit from advice I may give or correct me if I'm wrong.

Please ask on the open forum if you have a question and I'll be happy to help, if I know the answer.

 

Thanks all for your suggestions and help. Ya, I realise that the circuit diagram is incorrect, I am currently trying to track down the print version from the designer. Will show you all my results when its done.

Thanks!

 

Souper man

Just to let you know, you print your design directly on the magazine paper. I havent tried this method yet, but I am trying to find a good PCB designer.

 

Hi guys can I use an old magazine paper to print my design?

But the magazine papers already printed something on it by the magazine publisher.

Or do I need a clean new magazine paper (a paper without printed anything)?

 

What is wrong with Express PCB?

 

Printed pages from a magazine are fine. The slicker paper types are made with clay which helps release the paper from the toner when wet.

In regards to PCB layout tools. I suggest you go with a tool that allows you to input the schematic. then layout the board making sure that it follows the schematic.

If you check the net you will find that many designs are made using Eagle. Being popular does not automatically make it the best, but it does give access to designs created with the tool. I have only used Eagle of late so I can not tell you how it compares to the others.

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BCHS/3v0's Tutorials
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