IR Reciever Module Pin Out?? - Electronic Circuits Projects Diagrams Free

Peter_wadley · 4th May 2007, 11:17 PM

Hey,

I finally went out and bought the IR reciever module again.. i still do not know the correct way to wire it becuase I dont have the pinout or datasheet.

The pictures are attached below, I took shots of many angles.

From looking at the module head on (with the black bulb facing you)

what should the pin out be left to right?

Is there ANY way to tell if the pinout is correct?

Will the data line be 0v or 5v when it is wired correctly with no IR being emitted on it?

Thanks for any help!
Peter Wadley

Ps. I already know some of the pictures are blurry no need to tell me.

Brevor · 4th May 2007, 11:28 PM

Do you know the part number ?

picasm · 4th May 2007, 11:50 PM

The problem with these IR receivers is that unless you know the part number you will not know which remote control carrier frequency it is designed to work with.

For example, the Vishay TSOP48xx series datasheet shows seven variants:

http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datashe.../TSOP4830.html

If you are lucky, it may be a 36kHz type which works with Phillips remote controls. (They use the RC5 standard protocol which can be decoded with a PIC micro.
see: http://users.pandora.be/davshomepage/rc5.htm
http://www.piclist.com/techref/io/ir/remotes.htm

Peter_wadley · 5th May 2007, 12:49 AM

Im pretty sure it said 38khz on the baggie it came in

The ONLY number i have on this piece is:

it says 'F'
then underneath it says '602'

What about pinout.. is there a common pinout with these?

audioguru · 5th May 2007, 02:32 AM

Throw it away and buy a real IR receiver from a real electronic parts distributor. Get its datasheet first.

HarveyH42 · 5th May 2007, 03:18 AM

How expensive is your part? I did an AVR project last december with an unknown and it worked fine. Go to Nigel's website and wire it up just like he shows. Don't cut corners, you need the cap and resistor. The output should be HIGH with know signal, drops LOW when it detects. The center frequency is a guideline for best performance, anything close will work to some degree. I used the remote from VCR and oscilloscope to verify it was working. Didn't know the frequency of the module or VCR remote, and all was well.

Peter_wadley · 5th May 2007, 06:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by audioguru

Throw it away and buy a real IR receiver from a real electronic parts distributor. Get its datasheet first.

Damn it, your so unbelievably right on the mark on this one

What a damn waste of money..

2 x $4 = Could have been lunch money

If, when you look straight on to it (bulb facing you), the right pin is 1 middle is 2 and left is 3..

I hooked 1 to 5v.. 2 to GND and 3 to a 1000

hm: resistor to an LED going to GND..

The LED stays on until I point my TV controller at it.. which makes it blink off and on..

I think this thing is damn junk.

Please let me know if this will work as in Nigels tutorials

The one I have now isnt even doing the above anymore .. i think i most likely have burnt it out from trying the power supply wiring on every pin

Quote:

from a real electronic parts distributor

care to name one please? Sayal is pretty much crap as you know... I went to ACTIVE in mississauga.. it was alright.. except for the fact that they are selling a pic16F877a for 20 bucks!!! RIP OFF.

The source doesnt sell IR reciever, I cant find this damn IC anywhere except sayal!!!

Its 4 bucks or one harvey

**Nigel Goodwin** · 5th May 2007, 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peter_wadley

I hooked 1 to 5v.. 2 to GND and 3 to a 1000

hm: resistor to an LED going to GND..

The LED stays on until I point my TV controller at it.. which makes it blink off and on..

I think this thing is damn junk.

Sounds like it's working perfectly?.

Although I wouldn't suggest connecting the LED to ground, but from +ve to the output, so it blinks ON as it receives the pulses.

Quote:

The source doesnt sell IR reciever, I cant find this damn IC anywhere except sayal!!!

Simply get one out of any old TV, VCR, stereo etc. - make sure you check which pin is which before you remove it.

audioguru · 5th May 2007, 12:59 PM

When I order online (or by phone) at Newark or at Digikey before 8:00PM then it is delivered to me the next morning.

Sayal has good prices on some things and Active is there when I need someting in a hurry.

The Source sells cell phones and consumer products at full list price. They might have some old electronic parts leftovers from RadioShack. I have never bought anything from The Source.

Peter_wadley · 16th May 2007, 03:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nigel Goodwin

Sounds like it's working perfectly?.

Although I wouldn't suggest connecting the LED to ground, but from +ve to the output, so it blinks ON as it receives the pulses.

Simply get one out of any old TV, VCR, stereo etc. - make sure you check which pin is which before you remove it.

Hey there,

I just received 20 of these:

TSOP1838

When I hook it up as it says in the datasheet the output sit at 4.54V.. when i shine IR light (continuously) on it its output goes to ground..

Is this how it should be working??

Right now im trying to configure a 555 timer to blink the IR LED @ 38khz... anyone know what size caps and resistors i should use?

Thanks and I will try your tutorial with these, Nigel.

audioguru · 16th May 2007, 04:00 AM

The datasheet for every 555 has a formula to calculate the capacitor and resistors to set the frequency.

Peter_wadley · 16th May 2007, 04:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by audioguru

The datasheet for every 555 has a formula to calculate the capacitor and resistors to set the frequency.

Yes I just realized that lol

My main goal is to use the IR to toggle a PIC output on and off..

Is it possible to make the controller with the 555 or must I use another microcontroller? I would rather save the money since its such a trivial task.

Could I just make the controller send the 38khz carrier signal without modulating it?

The receiver practically blocks out all non-IR light and the circuit is in the garage - which is very dim.

Thanks

Peter_wadley · 16th May 2007, 05:37 AM

Well it works... kinda

I can use my TV and DVD player controllers to activate the pic.. but it has been false triggering quite alot..

I thought that the lens would be enough to protect it from false triggers.. guess not :@

HarveyH42 · 16th May 2007, 06:17 AM

Do you have capacitors across the PIC power pins and one for the IR module? These are important, and prevents the false triggering.

**Nigel Goodwin** · 16th May 2007, 09:47 AM

You also need the PIC to detect it's receiving the correct digital data, and NOT just any random occurance that makes the output go low.

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4th May 2007, 11:28 PM	(permalink)
Brevor	Do you know the part number ?

4th May 2007, 11:50 PM	(permalink)
picasm	The problem with these IR receivers is that unless you know the part number you will not know which remote control carrier frequency it is designed to work with. For example, the Vishay TSOP48xx series datasheet shows seven variants: http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datashe.../TSOP4830.html If you are lucky, it may be a 36kHz type which works with Phillips remote controls. (They use the RC5 standard protocol which can be decoded with a PIC micro. see: http://users.pandora.be/davshomepage/rc5.htm http://www.piclist.com/techref/io/ir/remotes.htm

5th May 2007, 12:49 AM	(permalink)
Peter_wadley	Im pretty sure it said 38khz on the baggie it came in The ONLY number i have on this piece is: it says 'F' then underneath it says '602' What about pinout.. is there a common pinout with these? __________________ "Stick around" - Arnold Schwarzenegger in The Predator after impaling a soldier to a wood post 9vDC Guitar Pedal PSU PIC16F84a Game Module

5th May 2007, 02:32 AM	(permalink)
audioguru	Throw it away and buy a real IR receiver from a real electronic parts distributor. Get its datasheet first. __________________ Uncle $crooge

5th May 2007, 03:18 AM	(permalink)
HarveyH42	How expensive is your part? I did an AVR project last december with an unknown and it worked fine. Go to Nigel's website and wire it up just like he shows. Don't cut corners, you need the cap and resistor. The output should be HIGH with know signal, drops LOW when it detects. The center frequency is a guideline for best performance, anything close will work to some degree. I used the remote from VCR and oscilloscope to verify it was working. Didn't know the frequency of the module or VCR remote, and all was well.

5th May 2007, 12:59 PM	(permalink)
audioguru	When I order online (or by phone) at Newark or at Digikey before 8:00PM then it is delivered to me the next morning. Sayal has good prices on some things and Active is there when I need someting in a hurry. The Source sells cell phones and consumer products at full list price. They might have some old electronic parts leftovers from RadioShack. I have never bought anything from The Source. __________________ Uncle $crooge

16th May 2007, 04:00 AM	(permalink)
audioguru	The datasheet for every 555 has a formula to calculate the capacitor and resistors to set the frequency. __________________ Uncle $crooge

16th May 2007, 05:37 AM	(permalink)
Peter_wadley	Well it works... kinda I can use my TV and DVD player controllers to activate the pic.. but it has been false triggering quite alot.. I thought that the lens would be enough to protect it from false triggers.. guess not :@ __________________ "Stick around" - Arnold Schwarzenegger in The Predator after impaling a soldier to a wood post 9vDC Guitar Pedal PSU PIC16F84a Game Module

16th May 2007, 06:17 AM	(permalink)
HarveyH42	Do you have capacitors across the PIC power pins and one for the IR module? These are important, and prevents the false triggering.

16th May 2007, 09:47 AM	(permalink)
Nigel Goodwin	You also need the PIC to detect it's receiving the correct digital data, and NOT just any random occurance that makes the output go low. __________________ PIC programmer software, and PIC Tutorials at: http://www.winpicprog.co.uk