If you don't have a drill bit of the correct size or a special stripboard tool then don't worry. The best way is to gently make two cuts next to each other then remove the bit inbetween with a soldering iron. Sometimes it's best to solder a piece of copper tinned wire to it, leave it to cool then pull it off, it should remove the track.

If you want to save space and money then use the LM78L05 in a T092 package, but as audioguru says it's only a goods idea if you're planning to use a 9V power supply, in which case it's also a good idea to add a 100µF capacitor across the power rails.

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twice!! I've tried my best..

Thanks

Yes, I'm using enamel coated wire as well. But the turns are not touching, maybe caused by experience??

Do you use drill bit for components or bigger drill bit?

Thanks

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My drill bit has a diameter a little more than the width of a copper track on the Veroboard. Here is a pic showing track cuts and a red screw-hole:

Attached Images

Veroboard.JPG (6.6 KB, 22 views)

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Uncle $crooge

 

Buy a proper track cutting tool, they cost very little, and it's SO much easier than using a drill bit - I used a drill bit for years, then I got round to buying the proper tool, I couldn't believe the difference!.

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I don't know where to buy real Veroboard anymore. I think Vero doesn't make it and the employees set up their own company but its website doesn't say much.

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Uncle $crooge

 

Dosen't really matter if it's real veroboard or not?, the spot face cutter still cuts it - and they are easily available. Here's one place http://www.maplin.co.uk/search.aspx?...1m11&worldid=3

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Maplin's spot face cutter looks like the last real Veroboard one I had, same type and colour. My first one had a wood handle, not plastic.
I don't have the tools anymore and there aren't any Maplin shops anywhere around here. My drill-press can cut two spots per second.

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Uncle $crooge

 

I whip my spot face cutter out of my pocket and cut tracks anywhere!, a drill-press seems a little less convenient?.

Maplin was only an example, almost any electronics shop stocks them - certainly RS Components do, and they are worldwide.

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I agree. I used to use a drill bit, but before a project that I knew would need many breaks, I bought the proper handled tool. It is very much better yeah. Mine was from Rapid

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How if the track nearby is also pulled out accidentally?
This package cost much right?
There are already one before and one after the voltage regulator, do I still need it?
Usually we cut the tracks before or after putting in the components?

Thanks

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The 100uF supply bypass capacitor is good with a battery, but it might not be enough to stop hum from your power supply.

Most low dropout regulators must have a pretty big output capacitor or they oscillate. The one I used needs 100uF. A 7805 or 78L05 is fine with a smaller output capacitor, a 0.1uF ceramic disc is recommended on its datasheet.

I mark where the tracks need cutting with a marker then cut them before mounting and soldering the parts.

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Uncle $crooge

 

A bigger one is needed for power supply? At the input or at the output?
The recommended is only 0.1uF, is anything affected if I use bigger one?
I planed to do so but luckily I didn't, the size of the coil and the trimmer cap is bigger then I thought. Now I'm thinking how to cut the tracks with the components on the board

The difference between 78L05 and 78LS05 is only the size right?

Thanks

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audioguru has already said, think about it, on the power suppply obviously means before the regulator.

No it shouldn't be affected, just don't go too overboard, stick to ceramic capacitors (normally under 1µF) because the electrolytics have poor high frequency charicteristics.

That's never botherd me, if a componant is in the way then temporarly unsolder it.

Yes, the LM7805 is only rated to 100mA which makes it cheaper.

EDIT:
It's output impedance is a bit higher so it's regulation isn't as good as the LM7805 but for small circuits it's more compact and cost effective.

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Oh! I mixed up the 7805 with the low drop out voltage regulator...

For a low drop out voltage regulator, a 100uF is needed if battery is used; bigger capacitor is needed if power supply is used, right?

For a 7805, just stick on ceramic capacitor, for both the battery and power supply?

Thanks

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How about this:
150k for R2 and 28k for R3? This is very close to your original design.

Is it critical or I can use either 100nF or 150nF?

Thanks

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