I found this buzzer and I thought that I should try it with ISIS 6 Professional before building it on a PCB. When I press the button the number stays the same. What is wrong and how to fix it. Since even in the schematic the data is not all readable. If some one could provide me with a better schematic it would be great even if the number of team would have to be less but I prefer it to be able to have 8 players/teams. The schematic was taken from http://www.electronic-circuits-diagr.../funckt2.shtml

Attached Images

1.gif (25.1 KB, 94 views)

Attached Files

buzzer.zip (19.9 KB, 32 views)

 

Looks like it should work? You have to reset it each time you want you ask the question, but that would be expected. And there is no timeout like I have on mine. Also, my buzzer goes back off after a couple seconds. But mine requires a PIC chip and I light up one of 6 LEDS.

My kids love the pic one I did. Not sure if I posted a picture, do not think I did.

But from a glance that looks OK. Looks like you reset the 373, a contestants button cause NAND to clock the flip-flop making sound and BCD shows who hit the button.

Did you build it on a breadboard?

 

I haven't tried it on a breadboard but as I sad i tried it on Proteus ISIS 6.7 Professional. and it didin't work. when i pressed the buttons the 7 segment stayed 0. my design is found in the buzzer.zip

 

Is ISIS6.7 Pro free? I can not seem to find it with google? Where is it and I will pull it and try it.

 

Yes, that circuit looks pretty good. can you look at various signals in ISIS. I'd check the inputs to 373, latch enable and output enable. look to see what's coming out of the '04.

by the way, you could implement a time-out by taking one of the button inputs and using a 555 timer set to what ever the timeout period is. I'd use 0.

 

isis 6.7 is not free of charge you have to buy it. www.labcenter.co.uk there is a lite version that you can get for free.

 

Can some edit the schematic that I provided and give me the missing pins that are labelled on the schematic since not all pins are clearly read and I tried to connect those using data sheets but until now I haven't been able to make it work.
The top switch is being pressed and as seen in the image the display is still showing 0.

Attached Images

buzzer simulation.JPG (186.6 KB, 55 views)

 

This circuit is not working as it should please help me.

 

Have you actually built it?.

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Perhaps there is a problem in your wiring. I notice you have your switches and pull-up resistors configured as in Figure 1 of my attachment. My thinking is they should be wired as in Figure 2. As you have them, there will always be a logic high present on the input of the 74LS373, which would give a "0" at the 7-segment LED.

Maybe you should try this rearrangement.

AllVol

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that is how it ic connected. The switch has a wire going to the ic 74ls373 and from that wire there is another connection that first passes trough a resistor that to v+

 

They will both work but I agree that fig 2 is the more common approach. Note that fig 1 has a short circuit risk for any chip that can switch the pin between input and output. on a pic for example, enabling the port for output would toast the pin and maybe the chip. not the case here so it doesn't really matter. However, it is bad practice in general.

I wonder if the simulation sw has some sort of problem. still, you should approach this like debugging a real circuit. follow the signals - where they diverge from what they should be, you've found the problem. if you can't do that then you are definitely stuck in low gear as this is a pretty straight-forward circuit. I suggest you at least try as it will improve your electronics skill level a lot.

 

I can't solve this problem I have just started to study electronics. can you give me some tips on how to solve this at least.

 

do you understand what the various components do in your circuit? look at each one's datasheet. pay attention to the inputs and outputs. ISIS must have a way to look at the inputs and outputs of the chips. so, when you push a button, the 373's outputs will change. the top switch (input to d0) should cause the 373 to output a low on Q0. look to see if that happened. if not, there is your problem. if it's ok, look to the next chip, the 147. see if the outputs make sense given the inputs. if the low on input 1 causes the 4 outputs to be L, H, H, H (q0 - q3) then it's good. then follow the inverters ('04) and finally, check the 47.

by the way, original schematic used proper pull-ups.

another point, your isis diagram is kind of a mess, it's very hard to tell whether 2 lines are connected when they cross.

 

what software do you use to test and build pcb?