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Old 8th July 2007, 05:50 AM   (permalink)
Default This is a cheap and easy to build system

I have had fun reading through this thread I must say, I have to admit that many people here understand things better then others. First of all the ATF requires that there be a full working safety circuit which is a test mode In the test mode no current larger then 15 mil amp should go to the Electronic Match however the electronic match should complete a circuit thus turning on an LED. This shows the operator that a complete circuit exist. Next and also very important the key should not com out in the power on mode or in the arm mode and the key should be connected to the operator so that he can not leave the panel in these modes (this is for safety) no power no accidental discharge save a life. Another note a properly fired match should never have any way to pass current as it should fully break if they do not you are using too little current to fire them. Here is a nice little one that I made in about 5 hour at a total cost of $125US. it is very fast simple and lens way to making a fully computer control device which cost me about $230us more.

http://www.pyrohouse.com/504cuepanel.htm

All of these parts are easy to find and in expensive.

The 25pair phone cords are very cheap and easy to find at Greybar Electronics
I used a very inexpensive case and it was the most expensive part of mine.
I also did not use the speaker connectors but ones I found that are easier to use quickly and with less fuss also they are easy to use in the dark and give me less issues made by a company called pro clip http://www.pyromagicinc.com/PyroClip.html

Here is another simple circuit that works great too
http://www.davidavery.co.uk/fireworks/index.htm

I hope that some of this is helpful to any of you that are interested in creating your own system.
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Old 8th July 2007, 11:58 PM   (permalink)
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Wow that launch system for the 504 cue system is pretty nice. I would like to build one but I’m having trouble understanding it. Do the LEDs function when the system is in arm mode too or only in test mode. Also the site shows that you need diodes. I think you need these because the system uses common grounds for each slat. However, were do you put the diodes in the circuit? I guess my problem here is that I’m having trouble understanding the circuit with out a schematic.
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Old 24th July 2007, 03:08 AM   (permalink)
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Here's an overly simplistic schematic. In this model, the LEDs are lit at all times, except when a cue is pushed. See attachment.

In my systems, I use a dedicated power supply (6v) to power the test LEDs. In "test mode" the 6v battery is fed only through the LED circuit. In "fire" mode, the LEDs are isolated from the 24v power source. I did this as an extra precaution, plus it allows me to increase the voltage used to fire without having to worry about it changing the current through the LEDs. Then, to totally overdo it, I added a "push to test" momentary, so even if the switch is left in "test", the LEDs only get powered when the button is held down.

As for the diodes, they are only necessary on systems that use a "grid" or common grounds. They can placed on either side of the speaker terminal or pyroclip where the e-match connects. They really aren't needed except as a failsafe to prevent power from feeding back into the circuit in the rare event an e-match shorts.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 64%20cue%20Wiring%20Diagram.jpg (7.5 KB, 71 views)
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Old 5th August 2007, 11:15 PM   (permalink)
RGC
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This is a nice panel, I do not under stand how you are going to the slats, I only see one plug on the side of your panel.

I would also like to build a panel like this can you help me with the hardware and how to do it.
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Old 6th August 2007, 12:04 AM   (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RGC
This is a nice panel, I do not under stand how you are going to the slats, I only see one plug on the side of your panel.

I would also like to build a panel like this can you help me with the hardware and how to do it.
Ok im going to atempt to answer you question. The control wire is a 25 pair cable thus giving us 50 wires to use. This system uses a common ground for each slat with 36 channels per slat. There are 14 slats total thus giving us 14 ground wires. So out of the 50 wires we have 36 left. This is where we get 36 channels for each slat. Each of the 14 slats shares the same channels but only the slat with its ground closed through a switch will fire the slected channel.

Last edited by Jason_TTU; 6th August 2007 at 12:06 AM.
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Old 6th August 2007, 02:27 AM   (permalink)
RGC
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Ok, are all of the 14 slats pluged together and when you put the A switch on it will fire the A slat, or do you have to change cables at the panel for each slat.
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Old 6th August 2007, 02:48 AM   (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RGC
Ok, are all of the 14 slats pluged together and when you put the A switch on it will fire the A slat, or do you have to change cables at the panel for each slat.
Yes all 36 channels on each slat are paralleled together and when you turn on the "A" switch you are completing the circuit through ground. Thus you don’t need to change any cables.
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Old 6th August 2007, 05:02 PM   (permalink)
RGC
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Thank you I under stand how the slats work now. I am not an electrician this is why I am asking the qustions. I am a pyrotech I have been searching on how to build a firing system. I found the panel on here and I would like to build one like this. Do you know if there is a diagram and parts list for this panel.
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Old 22nd October 2007, 07:14 AM   (permalink)
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who cant help y want tu build a Sequencer 10 channels every 4 sec must firing a channel my system fireworks firing system gifs a 24 volt output y want to put a power supple 12 volt in the sequincer iff it,s possibel to chance speed of the channels that wil be great

greetings peter dutch fireworker

you cant send your information also by email

vuurwerknfo@xmsnet.nl
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Old 27th October 2007, 11:03 AM   (permalink)
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Firing panels are tricky because they have to be *VERY* safe and reliable. A few things I found along the way that firstly an e-match can be detonated by as little as 10mA, not often, but quite possible with cheaper e-matches that have not been properly dipped or coated. My panel used a few CD40106 with 5v @ 1mA to 'sense' the condition of an e-match. I used 24 volts for my panel because when you fire chains the ignitors are wired in series not parallel, (you may use quick match for waterfalls like I did) and I also used a 'capacitive discharge' method. I had two keyswitch isolators to prevent someone inadvertantly pressing a button whilst you are happily loading an 3" salute into a mortar tube. I used an 8 way rotary switch and 8 press buttons to give me 64 cues down 16 wires and quick release spring loaded connectors.

Hope some of this may be helpful to you.
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