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LED signal to open 7VDC CKT?

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  1. #11
    Reloadron Reloadron is offline
    OK, the attached should give you what you want. Looks good on paper anyway.

    U1 replaces the existing LED. That being the opto-coupler. Anytime the original LED would have been ON (Shutter Open) U1 will be on. When U1 is ON it in turn turns on the relay. When the relay is ON it breaks the PWM motor drive path. The existing LED gets moved to the circuit and is shown as Moved LED in the drawing.

    Yes, a delay scheme could likely be worked into the routine. However, being short on time before I get going on that trip I don't really have the time to put into it. The attached should be a simple workable solution. I would try this and see if it works out.

    Ron
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  2. Thread Starter #12
    motleypixel motleypixel is offline
    Okay, this is great! Maybe my local Fry’s will have U1 and the SSR, else I’ll have to hunt them down on the interwebz. Okay, I’ve printed it out and then scribbled a diagram as if I was to actually lift the existing LED, solder wires, etc., trying to visualize it all.

    Alright so the U1 part is pretty simple…pwr source is already available, so it’s just a matter of de-soldering the existing LED and using short wire runs to connect pins 1 and 2 (keeping polarity correct). Looks like pin 6 is open and that’s all for that component.

    Now just a couple of quandaries on the other side of the CKT you built. My power source will be that 2-cell LiPo 7.4VDC pack. I measured the pack at no-load with my multi-meter and it actually read 8VDC…opps…not sure how much that will bias resistors in this CKT?

    Looks like pin 3 of the SSR is open?

    Now, power common will be my negative leg of my battery correct? This is sort-of an isolated system w/o any type of chassis ground.

    And finally, my PWM speed controller, trying to visualize how it’s hooked up now and I’m not quite translating it per the new CKT. The PWM speed controller has a P/S input (+/-) wires from the battery and the O/P of the controller has +/- wires that connect to the motor. I made the O/P connectors of the speed controller non-polarity connectors so I can swap the polarity to the DC motor to reverse the direction.

    So would it look the “crude” edited attached image below?

    Thanks,
    Roy
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  3. #13
    Reloadron Reloadron is offline
    You pretty much got it. The relay in my circuit is just a tiny mechanical relay. The opto coupler is not an SSR but a very common opto coupler. The relay I used has a 6 volt coil. Just about any common off the shelf SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) relay will work. If you have a local Frys they should have no problem fixing you up. I took it that your motor common (-) lead is circuit ground so drew it that way. Your change should be fine. The unloaded 8 volts will be fine, I used a 22 ohm resistor in series with the relay coil which should be fine between 7 to 8 volts and even when the battery voltage drops a little below 7 volts. Pin 3 of the relay is intentionally not used. The 1N4002 across the relay coil is there to act as a flyback diode and snub the inductive kick when the relay coil field collapses. It should work as drawn with your changes just fine.

    Ron
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  4. Thread Starter #14
    motleypixel motleypixel is offline
    Excellent, thank you Ron, it's easy to visualize that relay as the switch to open the + leg to the motor. I'll make a non-polarity plug pig-tail off of pin 4 of the relay and the negative lead from the output of the speed controller and that way I can swap the polarity to the motor and reverse the direction.

    I assumed that the relay was a SSR, like a IC pack of sorts.

    It's off to component shopping now...this should be fun. Thanks for all of your help and I'll be sure to post results.

    -Roy

    *Update:

    For the relay, here's the data sheet: http://www.electro-tech-online.com/c...012/05/az8.pdf Wouldn't the Light Duty 3 Amp work as well (AZ8-1C-6DE)? I will have to measure the amp draw of the system under load and see. The only data I have is that the system took ouT a mere 35mAH after an hour of continuous operation.

    This is U1 correct? http://search.digikey.com/us/en/prod...00-5-ND/385762
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    Last edited by motleypixel; 1st May 2012 at 02:25 PM. Reason: update

  5. Thread Starter #15
    motleypixel motleypixel is offline
    I’ve found the American Zettler relay on-line where Fry’s doesn’t carry it but does carry this one from NTE (R46-5D3-6): http://www.electro-tech-online.com/c...012/05/R46.pdf Differences being it’s 5A and the coil resistance is 70ohm.

    I could use this instead right? If so, then I see the hook-up per your CKT design you provided me to be identical correct?

    Thanks,
    Roy
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  6. #16
    Reloadron Reloadron is offline
    OK, as to the relay. There are a few considerations. First I wanted a high coil resistance so the relay coil current would be low. There are two reasons. The most important was how much current the opto coupler driving the relay coil could handle. I had to work within the limits of what the opto coupler could drive. That was also why I went with the more sensitive relay. The 4N25 Opto Coupler has a max forward current of about 50 mA and I wanted a margin below that max. So I wanted a coil resistance above 120 Ohms. Even though the duty will be intermittent I didn't want to push my luck. Like I mentioned any SPDT relay will work but we can't let the relay coil draw too much current. The rest of the logic was based on battery longevity.

    Now Fry's may know of a better opto coupler to use with a relay drawing more current. Maybe an opto with a "Darlington Output". As long as the opto used can turn on into full saturation (full on) with the about 2 volts you have to work with and handle the relay coil current.

    I suggest you show the sales rep at Frys the schematic and seek some advice. Hopefully a sharp rep will see and know what they are looking at. I don't have much time to start researching optos and other relays right now.

    Ron
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  7. Thread Starter #17
    motleypixel motleypixel is offline
    Roger that...I can find everything on-line just as you spec'ed-out. I'm not surprised to hear about resistance changes and current effects. Thanks!
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  8. #18
    Reloadron Reloadron is offline
    Let me know how it goes.

    Ron
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  9. Thread Starter #19
    motleypixel motleypixel is offline
    Parts on order, had to get the 22ohm resistors at Frys. Did up a wiring diagram, now just need a breadboard to test or I may learn how to dress that copper clad board and make my own runs etc.
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  10. #20
    diy didi diy didi is offline
    I like the cct, but dont understand why an opto isolater is needed??
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