Electronic Circuits and Projects Forum

im doing a SMS Controlled Multi-Socket and i recently bought some wires to connect the LIVE contacts of the multi-socket to the relays on my PCB.

I haven't tested it out yet but id like to know whether what im about to do would be safe and feasible.

The only specs that the electronics shop could give me was that the cable had a rating of 600V.. So im assuming that the cable is good enough to withstand a voltage of 240V from the mains..? There was no current rating available..

Secondly, how should I attach this wires to my PCB? through a screw in socket or directly soldered to the PCB?


As for the connection to the LIVE contacts on the multi-socket, would soldering suffice?


Also, I would like to test my relay to see whether it is working so that when I input a voltage into the relay from my Circuit Board, the armature closes and lets the 240V pass through it...Other than connecting an appliance to the multi-socket to test whether the circuit works, is there any other "safer" way to validate that the 240V AC loop is closed?

Thanks

I suspect the 600 V cable rating refers to the insulation resistance or dielectric property of the cable. At 600 V the insulation will start to be overcome and a catastrophic failure can lead to a short.

I might go with a little higher rating if it were me but for your voltage you will be within spec.

There are a few bits of knowledge needed to provide a good response for the cables.

First: How long of a run of cable will it be?
Reason: The longer a run of wire you use, the thicker in needs to be so carry the load farther. So the longer the run the thicker the cable. 600v cable can easy fall apart from 240v if the run was long enough. ALSO to consider, you can also lose some voltage if the cable is too big. If you run 12 volts through 4/0 cable at 3 feet you'll lose quite a bit of your current.

Second: Is this cable solid, or stranded, or coated
Reason: if the cable is solid it is more apt to hold up to switching and heat, however there is a larger amount of current loss though that huge chunk of copper. However if it is stranded it can melt easier with heavy loads, or inclement weather conditions, also more susceptible to corrosion.

Initial assessment: Currently it sound as if the wire will work for your application, however the variables list above can change this.

Optional assessment: Perhaps a smaller wire would serve better, less of a change of voltage loss, and probably easier to maneuver and handle

thank you all for your replies

Im actually going to connect these wires from the LIVE contacts of the multi-socket to my PCB so all in all it should be a wire length of less than a feet. As I am going to control 3 sockets of the multi-socket, hence there will be 3 pairs of AC voltage wires coming out from the socket to my PCB..

Will the PCB be strong enough to handle the voltage and current from the mains supply?

I actually do not know the actual current of the load required as the socket is to be used for various kinds of appliances and the current drawn would depend on the appliance connected to it.

As each of this socket will be controlled digitally by the microcontroller via relays, I would also want to be able to manually control the socket and I am thinking of using a pushbutton switch connected to the AC loop to achieve this..Will the pushbutton switches be able to handle the voltage and current as well??

thank u all for your help=)

pardon me if im wrong but..

how do multi-socket manufacturers design the cables for their multi-sockets then?
They themselves dont even know the exact load of the appliance connected to it..as it varies from appliance to appliance

That is why when i mentioned that the load is not fixed, i'm assuming that someone would know the maximum possible current rating of the wires used in the industry for appliance multi-sockets.

thank you

As each of this socket will be controlled digitally by the microcontroller via relays, I would also want to be able to manually control the socket and I am thinking of using a pushbutton switch connected to the AC loop to achieve this..Will the pushbutton switches be able to handle the voltage and current as well??

Do ignore my question on the pushbutton as i have thought up an alternative safer solution.