WRT54G Power Supply Chip - Page 3 - Electronic Circuits Projects Diagrams Free

mvs sarma · 5th January 2007, 07:29 PM

Hi Oznog, you might have noticed that the DC input available at input of F1 is 0V at output. i presume F1 to be a polyfuse. thus it is possible that fuse is blown and evenif self resetting it wont unless the load or perhaps shrt at its output is removed( imean normalized) now see the possiblities-- hope you are also seeing the photo--- these mentioned components in my last post are all shunting to ground. if any of them is shoert it is perhaps possible that the fuse can not restore. now they could remove the supply and start a DMM check for ohms (low range) wrt ground across these points.

also they cold gine current limited 5v supply , say witha 5ohms series resistor and try bypass the fuse wit a wire. automatically the faulty component will be revealed by thermal sense by a touch

ParkingLotLust · 5th January 2007, 07:32 PM

Interesting. I removed F1 and tested it with a multimeter and it has <1 ohm of resistance, which is good. I reinstalled it, and now the torroid (or something near it) is buzzing. That CANT be good.

ParkingLotLust · 5th January 2007, 09:26 PM

We've got it some more stuff worked out. It still doesnt turn on, but it doesnt buzz until I connect a multimeter to test volages, for example, across DS1 or D1. When I remove the multimeter it stops buzzing. If anyone else has any ideas, Id like to hear them.

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5th January 2007, 07:29 PM	(permalink)
mvs sarma	Hi Oznog, you might have noticed that the DC input available at input of F1 is 0V at output. i presume F1 to be a polyfuse. thus it is possible that fuse is blown and evenif self resetting it wont unless the load or perhaps shrt at its output is removed( imean normalized) now see the possiblities-- hope you are also seeing the photo--- these mentioned components in my last post are all shunting to ground. if any of them is shoert it is perhaps possible that the fuse can not restore. now they could remove the supply and start a DMM check for ohms (low range) wrt ground across these points. also they cold gine current limited 5v supply , say witha 5ohms series resistor and try bypass the fuse wit a wire. automatically the faulty component will be revealed by thermal sense by a touch __________________ Regards, Sarma.

5th January 2007, 07:32 PM	(permalink)
ParkingLotLust	Interesting. I removed F1 and tested it with a multimeter and it has <1 ohm of resistance, which is good. I reinstalled it, and now the torroid (or something near it) is buzzing. That CANT be good.

5th January 2007, 09:26 PM	(permalink)
ParkingLotLust	We've got it some more stuff worked out. It still doesnt turn on, but it doesnt buzz until I connect a multimeter to test volages, for example, across DS1 or D1. When I remove the multimeter it stops buzzing. If anyone else has any ideas, Id like to hear them.