![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
|||||||
| Chit-Chat Relax for a bit and have a general conversation (off topic is allowed!) with other members. Please be polite and respect your fellow members. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
(permalink) |
|
A friend and i are going to be working on a really cool (and expensive) project.
We need to mill out a LOT of parts, and we need to make it out of aluminum. The chunks need to be about 1 foot x 1 foot (maybe a few inches less) I was just wondering if anyone knows of any suppliers of millable aluminum (i think the stuff is called bailet, or something like that) Thanks. [edit: any thickness should be fine.]
__________________
There is no "I" in "team", unless Apple makes it... Then it would be iTeam. Last edited by Marks256; 6th July 2008 at 03:29 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
(permalink) |
|
Are you very close to McNeilius in Dodge Center? The company is now sold, but used to have a great scrap yard with tons of cut-offs at great prices. When I couldn't find something there, I went to Lynn's scrap (who was McNeilius's dad) and could usually find it. Best part, they were open on Sunday and closed on Saturday. There are also other scrap/cut-off metal places in Dodge Center (Dickie Steel is one).
Second choice is McMaster Carr (much more expensive). As for which alloys to use, pure aluminum (1001) and even half-hard (3003) are hard to machine, as they get gummy. Use lots of cutting fluid with them (kerosene works). A harder aluminum , like 6063, 6061, 2017, 2024, etc. is much easier to machine. McMaster is good, even if you don't buy from it, because it has a convenient table of machinability. John Edit: I forgot 2011 and MIC6 are also easy to machine. MIC6 is something you will find in large plates. Last edited by jpanhalt; 6th July 2008 at 03:50 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
(permalink) |
|
Hmm... Ok...
Yeah, i am pretty close to McNeilius'. One of my friends is pretty good friends with the people there. This project is going to take some precision, so i think i will have someone mill them for me... Maybe Fastenal would do it? I don't want to spend for than a grand ($1000) on this device.
__________________
There is no "I" in "team", unless Apple makes it... Then it would be iTeam. Last edited by Marks256; 6th July 2008 at 04:27 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
(permalink) |
|
Try emachineshop.com.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
(permalink) |
|
It is hard to say what the cost will be for "a lot." You would need to be specific. I have never used a job shop but suspect you are going to see something like $80 to $100 per hour on the low side. $1000 can be spent pretty quickly making different parts. The expense is all in set-up.
I doubt McNeilius will do custom work. A vo-tech might do it for a low fee or consider adult extension classes. I used to enroll just to get access to machines I didn't have, such as horizontal mills and grinders. John |
|
|
|
|
|
|
(permalink) |
|
I know it is going to be spendy. really spendy.
I have heard of emachineshop before... i will check that out.
__________________
There is no "I" in "team", unless Apple makes it... Then it would be iTeam. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
(permalink) |
|
This is very good advice. Not only do you get the parts made but you learn how to work the tools. If you pay to have it done you can not afford to be wrong. Which is apt to happen. Take the money you do not spend on machining and buy some extra blanks.
__________________
search engine for electronic partsJunebug USB PIC programmer kit., USB Bit Wacker, 3v0's Homepage The 15 Minute Printed Circuit Board! (+drill time) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
(permalink) |
|
yeah. i like this idea, too.
Hmm.... How do you "shine" up the aluminum when you are done machining it? like, getting it really smooth and shiny?
__________________
There is no "I" in "team", unless Apple makes it... Then it would be iTeam. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
(permalink) |
|
I am not a machinist. But as I understand it you machine to a fine finish and after that a rag and some polish makes it shine.
__________________
search engine for electronic partsJunebug USB PIC programmer kit., USB Bit Wacker, 3v0's Homepage The 15 Minute Printed Circuit Board! (+drill time) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
(permalink) | |
|
Quote:
__________________
There is no "I" in "team", unless Apple makes it... Then it would be iTeam. |
||
|
|
|
|
|
(permalink) |
|
If you get a good machinist, it will be shiny anyway.
Mike. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
(permalink) |
|
You've not mentioned what you're trying to do, but isn't milling parts out of a solid block a very expensive way to make components?.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
(permalink) |
|
What'cha building Marks?
__________________
"Because I be what I be. I would tell you what you want to know if I
could, mum, but I be a cat, and no cat anywhere ever gave anyone a straight answer, har har." |
|
|
|
|
|
|
(permalink) | |
|
Quote:
with stones. As for surface finish, machining is part of the answer. The Mic6 and other plate aluminum comes in various surface finishes, from rough mill (rolled), to surface ground. The surface ground plate is not that expensive, gives you a good reference point (the tolerance on aluminum extrusions is pretty big), and is quite attractive. Light bead blasting with glass or walnut shells also gives a nice finish. Finally, I would suggest you look into home DIY anodizing. This is, after all, an electronics forum. As for hand polishing, I would avoid it. It is messy, dirty work and does not impart any protection. My first choice is to start with a decent surface, such as the ground material, do decent machining, and finish with anodizing. John Last edited by jpanhalt; 6th July 2008 at 06:35 PM. |
||
|
|
|
|
|
(permalink) |
|
Hi, I'm 3Vo's significant other.
I studied mechanical and industrial engineering and was trained to be a machinist. The part when designed will have a specified 'surface finish', that is specified in 'microinches' by the designer. The smaller that number, the smoother the surface will be finished to. The machinist will produce the part to the size, shape, and within the tolerances specified by the designer (engineer) including SURFACE FINISH. The 'smoother' the finish, the more work it takes on the shop floor. So usually only as flat and "shiny" a finish as will suffice will be specified because of the additional work involved to get a flatter smoother finish. Which adds to the cost of manufacturing that part. Bottom line, the cheaper the part is to make the better. So a shiny smooth part was specified that way, otherwise that machinist will probably be fired for wasting the time to put that finish on. Once in awhile for a display or promo rollout, extra work will be taken to smooth, buff, plate, and polish, but that is the exception for the showpiece. [example, only the very first shuttle sent to orbit had painted white fuel tanks. That added a LOT to the cost PLUS the weight of the paint. All the rest have looked rusty or tan/yellow of the insulating foam....] Even in our highly automated age, it still costs to do additional work to produce a smoother finish and the bottom line is they will only do what is necessary. Rather than machine from a solid block at a certain point, a part will be cast or pre-formed then the fine machining to tolerance is done after. A good machinist is economical in work and TIME expended and does hold tolerance as required and specified.
__________________
search engine for electronic partsJunebug USB PIC programmer kit., USB Bit Wacker, 3v0's Homepage The 15 Minute Printed Circuit Board! (+drill time) |
|
|
|
|
| Bookmarks |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
|
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Latest |
| calc Tr of aluminum object? | justDIY | General Electronics Chat | 2 | 9th January 2008 07:40 PM |
| Supplier! | epilot | Electronic Projects Design/Ideas/Reviews | 16 | 6th September 2006 05:01 PM |
| UK Supplier | holdit | Micro Controllers | 4 | 16th October 2005 03:12 PM |
| vaporize aluminum wire | George L. | General Electronics Chat | 3 | 14th June 2005 05:15 AM |
| Need Help etching Aluminum | TheDesignShop | Electronic Projects Design/Ideas/Reviews | 4 | 28th April 2004 02:48 PM |