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| As a early birthday president I got a nice table top drill press from Harbor freight. Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices It is similar to this one, but 5 speed and it's a 8 inch with a 1/3 horsepower motor, and it was only 85$. Are there any tips as to what to be careful with it? I already know some tips from our robotic's team's drill presses. I also got a 4" vise for 20 bucks. first pic: Drill press, vise and drill bit box 2nd pic: Electronic work station, the black containers on the left are film pictures (pfft) and the oaken table that has taken a beating (from me). Note the Ferric Chloride spill and black sharpie outline of something. 3rd pic: Entire setup. TV in the middle, even though I have not turned it on for a few months. EDIT: This is my basement, not my living room, etc (hmm drill presses and soldering irons in the living room how stylish) Last edited by Krumlink; 20th June 2008 at 09:38 PM. | |
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| Don't use it is as a mill...I did and it's all noisy now. Oh well, only $40. And drill bits *flex* and can break so clamp them only as long as you need them.
__________________ NO, that picture isn't me so don't bother asking if we can be friends. Last edited by dknguyen; 21st June 2008 at 12:17 AM. | |
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| Quote:
"Runout" is how much the bit wobbles at the chuck--the more runout you have, the less precise the drilling will be. I also got a drill press clamp for mine, which can make things easier for some jobs. I don't really use it when I'm drilling PCBs though. Torben
__________________ Curiosity was framed. Ignorance killed the cat. | ||
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| If I got a milling drill bit could I use it perhaps? | |
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| Yes, but you'd still wreck the drill press. The problem isn't the bit; it's the fact that the bearings aren't designed to handle the stresses of milling. It's a drill press; use it for drilling. To mill you should use a mill. Torben
__________________ Curiosity was framed. Ignorance killed the cat. | |
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| I wasnt going to use my drill press as a mill anyways. | |
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| make sure that your hair don't get stuck in the drill (if you have longer hair) sounds maybe funny but i ve seen in my class somebody almost scalped because of that the next day he shaved him self bold Robert-Jan | |
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| Milling plastic and soft wood is fine-- avoid metals. I have that same DP and it works quite nicely for the electronics shop and some minor gunsmithing. You prolly didn't realize this when you assembled it but you should remove the chuck arbor, spray it with Simple Green or 409, or similar stuff. Wipe it very clean and then use 0000 steel wool. Now wipe it again with a cloth ever so lightly coated with WD40. Do the same for the arbor's quill up inside it. When finished, place a small 2x4 on the table, insert the arbor into the quill and use the handles to bring down the chuck onto the wood. Force it fairly good so it stays put in the quill. Now it won't rust, won't fall out from vibes, and you can tap it out with a hammer if need be. Next get yourself a LINK BELT from Rockler, similar woodworking supplers, or a local bearing/belt supply company. Throw away that awful stock drive belt and install the link belt. You will notice a serious improvement in performance from better torque, way less vibrations, quieter running, and less belt stretch. All that from a link belt that will last longer than the machine will. The factory Chinese belt is absolutely awful and way out of tolerance. The DP's bearings will last longer from less vibes. They are sold by the foot and aren't cheap to buy!! But for machines, nothing on earth beats them. ![]()
__________________ Don't make me reach through this monitor to slap you a good one! | |
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| Never hold the workpiece by hand when you are drilling - always have it clamped. I nearly lost a finger when the piece I was drilling got snagged on the bit and it started spinning round ....... | |
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| I have had the same drill press for about a year and like it. At times I use it with an incra-jig positioner for drilling holes exactly where they need to be. Not exactly a CNC machine but it works. I agree with Hi-Tech on the link belt. I use them on my full size woodworking equipment. It never occured to me to put one on the little drill press.
__________________ search engine for electronic partsJunebug USB PIC programmer kit., USB Bit Wacker, 3v0's Homepage The 15 Minute Printed Circuit Board! (+drill time) | |
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| hi krumlink, Just one observation, in the image, the drill dosnt appear to bolted to the bench, if not, I would bolt it firmly down. Place it so the daylight on the drill table isnt obscured by the body of the drill. Also get youself a pair of eye goggles. If the main drill chuck will not hold a 1mm drill you can buy a small chuck that fits into the main chuck As HiTech says, a spray with WD40 and wipe over.
__________________ Eric "Good enough is Perfect" PIC tutorials: Gramo's: www.digital-diy.net/ Bill's: www.blueroomelectronics.com/ Last edited by ericgibbs; 21st June 2008 at 01:55 PM. | |
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| The key to using WD40 is to be extra stingey (spl?) when applying it. All that's needed is a very fine film of the stuff to displace moisture... not an amount that causes the arbor to fall out from torqing or vibrations. Same goes for table surfaces on powershop tools. On a table saw top you need it pretty dry so the furniture paste wax will adhere. Too much WD40 and the wax fails.
__________________ Don't make me reach through this monitor to slap you a good one! Last edited by HiTech; 22nd June 2008 at 02:07 AM. Reason: spelling! | |
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| If you want a mill, Harbor Freight has the Micro Mill for about $300. ![]() I know, I am a slob. Quite a mess eh. How do you make the images the clickable type? Last edited by Mikebits; 22nd June 2008 at 07:29 AM. | |
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| hi Mike, Your pic has made me feel a lot better, I too use my benches as shelves, looks just like yours... I use the 'manage attachments' button to add clickable pics.
__________________ Eric "Good enough is Perfect" PIC tutorials: Gramo's: www.digital-diy.net/ Bill's: www.blueroomelectronics.com/ | |
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