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| Hello everyone,I used to play with simple circuits when younger and hope to rekindle the fun at some point.Today I have an auto problem.I installed a new fuel pump and it wont stop running.I think I have isolated the switch and am wondering if anyone can tell from a schematic how to test it.This switch is directly tied to the oil pressure on this chevy and apparently it will shut down the fuel pump if the oil pressure drops to save the engine.Heres the schematic. What Im thinking is,can I jump from the gray wire to one of the others to see if the pump stops.Question is,which one?It looks to me like if I connect it to the tan wire I will short it out and I dont want to spend another $100 on a pump.Any thoughts?All I remember from electronics class was the resistor rhyme:bad /boys/*aped /young girls/ but/ violet /gives /willingly.ha!IThanks everyone! | |
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So if the new pump is running all the time, presumably the old pump would have done the same, if you have not made any wiring changes. Quote:
Quote:
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For those old enough to understand, try this: "By Being Right On Your Grid Bias Volts, Good Working" JimB
__________________ Experience is directly proportional to the value of the equipment ruined. | |||||
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| The most likely suggestion is that the fuel pump relay contacts are stuck. Switch the ignition on (don't try to start), wait 30 secs, remove the fuel pump relay. The pump should stop. If the pump stops, insert the relay again and listen for a "Click". No "Click" but the pump runs = faulty relay contacts. "Click" & pump runs = possible faulty PCM (Powertrain Control Module) or wiring from PCM shorted to ground. FYI, the low oil pressure scenario should cut power to the pump and not allow it to run continuously. HTH. | |
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| Judging by this low-quality drawing, there are redundant wires running to the fuel pump delay unit. You only need to add a fused wire from the ignition switch to relay coil, the NO contact to HOT feed, and the arm output to the pump. That's how my Dodge is wired. | |
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