I would pull 15A continuous from a 20A breaker, but I feel safe pulling 20A for up to 5 minutes. Before doing so, I would make sure that my entire circuit uses 12 AWG wire, nothing smaller.

Breakers and legal wiring have plenty of safety factor.

 

How long do you have? Order up some gels, etc. if you can. Possibly some holders as well.

Depending on the production, you could probably narrow it down to two or three gels...try to get a warm and a cool at the very least. Subtle changes between the two will greatly enhance the show. Try some of the Rosco swatches on here:
http://www.lighttrader.com/rosco_lux.htm#Color

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Do all the lights need to be controlled independantly from each other?

Could you wire them phase-to-phase for 240V operation?

That would only be 25A.

You could connect two bulbs in series with each other or just replace them all with 240V bulbs.

Also watch out for the current rating of the cable, for 25A you need at least 4mm² (11AWG) and for 50A you need at least 10mm² (7AWG).

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Ok. I narrowed it down to 36 bulbs instead of 81. They will be 100 watts, so i will be able to do it from 2 separate circuits @ ~15 amps each.


I would say no more than a month. That way i can work out any bugs in the system...

No, that would be out of the question. I was talking to the custodian so i could get a grip on power availability, and he didn't even know what the hell he was talking about, so i don't think i could gain access to 240 (actually, i don't even think there is a 240 line anyways. )

No, they do not have to be independent from each other. My plan is to have a left stage and a right stage. Each side will have 6 bulbs of each color (red yellow and blue). The six bulbs of each color will be all controlled together, as will the other side. SO, i will have a total of 6 dimmer switches (which will be maxed out wattage wise unless i can get some of the budget and get some 1000 watters)

Anyways, that brings me to a good question.

What size wire is good for 5 amps, also i need to know for 15 amps.


I have also decided that since i know nothing about large amounts of voltage, specifically the stuff i will be working with, i will have a certified electrician (family friend) look it over before it will be used. (yes, 120 isnt much, but again, for some reason i have a fear of it...)

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Use 1mm² for 5A (18AWG) and 2mm² (14AWG) for 15A.

This is just a rough guide, it depends on the ventilation, ambient temperature, the temperature rise the insulation can stand, the type of copper and the acceptable voltage drop.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge

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Thanks hero. I went out to the shed (it is very cold out... ) and got some 12AWG, so i guess it is better to have overkill than not enough...

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Have you considered modifying a scoreboard with optos or relays? If the scoreboard can be re-programmed, some fantastic lighting effects are possible. I built a portable name-in-lights display back in 1988 with 4N25 optos and TIC106B 200V triacs - the same circuit was interfaced to Christmas lights. But, until those breakers are labelled and certified, stick with one circuit at a time coming from a safe outlet, maybe a GFCI.

 

A score board would cost more than buying a DMX unit



Anyway, just figured i would give an update.

We had our performance last month. It went well. We ended up getting some "nice" DMX lights, so all was good. I made DVDs of it, and sold 40 of them at $10 a piece. So, i made ~$340 off the play ($60 goes to the play organization.)

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Glad to hear it was a success despite the obstacles, etc.

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Yep. For the play next year i plan on doing things different... I will get a much better camera (one with audio inputs), and better mics (onmi-directional), plus a jib-boom, and maybe a few other cameras... A Tricaster would be nice, too...

For the DMX lighting, i will get an OpenDMX controller.

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