2V & 60A reqd from car? - Page 3 - Electronic Circuits Projects Diagrams Free

Thunderchild · 22nd March 2009, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elliven

Press
hydrino molecule rectifies zero point energy
http://www.calphysics.org/Patent7379286.pdf
YouTube - A New Energy Source - Blacklight Power

Am I stupid enough to think that any energy conversion process is more than 100% efficient?
No: There has to be another explination.
Am I stupid enough to think that everything has already been invented and that there is no other explination?
No: Ignorence is not an excuse its a choice.

Any one here done a study on Tesla?
It wont be anyone who has replied so far.

Ignorence is bliss; enjoy your security!
I would rather be wrong and laughed at.

Well those are good words of wisdom but applied to the wrong thing as you come very late. This subject has been bashed to bits over and over and tried and trested no end. So you not "boldly going where no man has gone before" your going into very well known to be trouble, thats your choice just don't expect others to pat you on the back for the guts alone because you also need reasoning, just read around the board and you will find this topic discussed many times and dave yourself the embaressment.

mang9723 · 13th April 2009, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by audioguru

He is adding HHO to a gasoline engine to fool the ECM into making the mixture too lean so the engine burns its valves and pistons. Then less gasoline is burned.
But the nitrogen pollutant will be way too high.

Adding HHO has totally the opposite effect, does not lean out when HHO is added but enriches mixture as "not enough" burn gasses are seen at the O2 sensor.....

blueroomelectronics · 13th April 2009, 08:04 PM

Partial quote from this site.
Scientific proof debunking the "run your car on water" scams

Quote:

Update: I've now asked over 100 HHO scammers to perform these tests and report their observations. Not one has done so. That's because the vast majority of those claiming it works don't even have a system in their vehicles, they're only in this scam for the money they earn from it.
And another worrying aspect of these HHO conversions has been brought to my attention...
All of those who are *actually* seeing a small improvement in fuel efficiency after fitting one of these kits have one thing in common.. they've messed around with the O2 sensor in their engine. The rationale here is that the extra oxygen from the electrolysis is causing the O2 sensor to return a reading that will cause the engine computer to increase the amount of gasoline injected -- so the O2 sensor should be disabled or adjusted to compensate.
This is utter rubbish. The O2 coming from the electrolysis cell will be totally consumed when it oxidizes the hydrogen during combustion.
What happens when you fool with the O2 sensor is that you trick your engine computer into forcing your engine to run lean -- far leaner than it's designed to run -- and that's bad.
Yes, you *may* save a few dollars per tank in fuel costs but you'll pay dearly for it a little further down the track in the form of burnt valves and damaged piston-crowns.
When you allow your engine to run lean, the internal operating temperatures soar, as does the exhaust gas temperature. This has a huge effect on the life of the valves and valve-seats, as well as promoting pre-ignition and the damaging effects that can produce.
And if you are someone who's done this and claim extra mileage, try disconnecting your HHO system without further touching the O2 sensor. Guess what, your fuel efficiency will *increase* even further! The HHO system has *nothing* to do with the fuel-economy you're seeing, it's simply the over-lean setting you've fooled your engine's computer into delivering.

mang9723 · 13th April 2009, 08:33 PM

Blueroom: YES YES YES ! We all know that ! Come with something a lot more original please ! You can lean out your O2 sensor equiped ECU quite a bit WITHOUT engine damage. Just don't OVERDO it ! Since my young days, we (friends and I) have leaned out our Webber (tm) equiped cars when Webber carburettors were the real fashion statement. Undersized fuel jets, oversized air jets etc. You have to watch the EGT, if your exhaust changed to a rusty colour it was TOO lean.... so you see we know all this, a loooonnnngggg time ago !!! The modern ECU's operate on a 14:1 air to fuel ratio. That is a very CONVENIENT mid point for the designers. You can go to a higher ratio, as much as 16.5:1, just watch your EGT !

duffy · 13th April 2009, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mang9723

You can lean out your O2 sensor equiped ECU quite a bit WITHOUT engine damage.

Because you're so much smarter than all those pointy-headed engineers at the big auto companies, right?

blueroomelectronics · 13th April 2009, 09:02 PM

Don't you know it's all a big oil coverup.

Sceadwian · 13th April 2009, 09:06 PM

How do you measure engine damage, over the short term or over the 10+ year life of the engine? Cause the engineers set that fuel mixture point for a nice long life. I will bet you every single last penny I have or will ever make in my entire life that you significantly reduced the life of that engine. Leaning out your engine beyond factory specs by more than a very small amount will increase overall heating which shortens engine/oil and general component life significantly in the long run.

Willbe · 13th April 2009, 11:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elliven

I would like to a car's electrical system, as input, to get an output of between 1.4 & 2 Volts and around 60 Amps.

A single lead acid cell puts out 2.16v but you'd have to drill a hole in the top of the battery to tap into the cross-strap. This is how I got 6v for a tape recorder for in-car use.

tcmtech · 14th April 2009, 12:09 AM

If you want better fuel milage the correct way is to increase the fuel not decrease it!

a 12.9:1 air fuel ratio will give you better millage not worse!
The added fuel has a burn quenching effect. This allows for more ignition advance to be used. The combination of the two makes the total burn more smooth and efficient. Thus the throttle is actualy closed further while getting the same power out of the engine. Being less total air is being drawn in less fuel is needed.

Talk to your local old timer speed guys or your local drag strip or auto racer guys about it, they will tell you the truth!

I have worked with carburated engines all of my life and I know for a fact that it works this way! When you want more power and less fuel, using a richer ratio makes it better. The guys that showed me this worked for most of their lives as auto dealership mechanics.
Everyone of them has said that back when the auto industry started going for emmisions ratings the first thing the customers complained about was the piss poor milage they got. They all said that they could not do anything about it until the warranty was over. When the factory warranty was over the first thing the would tell the customer is to bring in their car for the "adjustment" cure for the bad milage.
The cure was to rejet the emissions rated carburators to a richer setting! Not leaner! They also said that this also curred the valve wear and burning problems too!

However you will never pass an emissions test though!

Another secret millage booster that does honestly work is cetane boost.
its made as a diesel fuel supplement and stablizer and has the same effect as a octane booster on a gasoline engine. Its common knowledge around my circle that it does in fact give a honest 5 - 15% millage increase. I have used it for many years and have I have watched my average milage enough to know it does in fact work.
About 2 -3 cups per 20 gallons is all thats needed. Any more than that does not have any drastic effect on milage improvement.

(But it will make your exaust smell awfull if you get it to rich!)

And it does not hurt your sensors!

Elliven · 31st August 2009, 11:45 PM

I had given up on this post, but there seem to be some open minded people that have posted constructive advice here.
Thx guys.

Fundi in SA means expert.

Cells in series have been tried and are being used.
They are impractical however as the electrolyte for each cell has to be electrically insulated, which makes filling etc. difficult.

The idea of putting a transformer on each of phases of an alternator did occure to me. As did re-winding an alternator.
I was hoping for a more ... plug and play solution however.

Tesla was a genius. His understanding of electricity far surpassed that of anyone. His ideas were suppressed when he wanted to transmit electricity wirelesly. How do you cut of someone who is not paying? Assuming you can meter his usage in the 1st place?

There is some rumour of scalar waves.
I am getting out of my depth here but think this has to do with the fact that the free electrons in a conductor are .... compressible?

Now lets talk some more on why I think that adding H & O to an engine may work despite the obvious efficiency losses of the engine, alternator, and cell:

Hydrogen burns much faster than fuel in air. This means that one should be able to get the mixture to burn at a time when more of the heat goes into turning the crank.

The cylinder wall of an engine is at around 200 C which is too cold for the air fuel mixture to burn. So the combustion flame is quenched at a certain distance from the wall. This distance is generally just under 2 mm.
The quench distance of hydrogen is in the region of 0.5 mm.
This means that there is quite a large volume of mixture, burned with the aid of hydrogen, that is normally wasted.

Another scource of unburned fuel is impropper mixing of fuel, with air, in the chamber. Hydrogen burns in ratios from 4% to 90 something % with air.
Therefore more of the fuel that is not mixed in the propper ratio with air will be burned.

Exhaust gas is in the region of 600 C.
The electrical energy needed to split water decreases with temperature. If you can figure out a way to use some of that waste heat to help with the reaction.....

A more difficult approach would be to use electricity produced during over-run to produce hydrogen and then store it.

So yes: I am hoping to increase the efficiency of an internal combustion engine, but will probably not accomplish my goal.
Then again; flight was considered impossible just 106 years ago...

blueroomelectronics · 31st August 2009, 11:48 PM

Well flight isn't breaking any laws of thermodynamics.

tcmtech · 1st September 2009, 12:35 AM

Did someone leave a door open some place lately?

Elliven · 1st September 2009, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueroomelectronics

Well flight isn't breaking any laws of thermodynamics.

I assume you disagree with the points I made?
Any one in particular you have an issue with or are you still stuck on the inefficiencies of the engine alternotor and cell?
Which dont mean a damn to me at this point.

Perhaps you have some figures regarding using the waste heat in the exhaust to improve the efficiency of a cell?

Anyway thats not the point. The point is flight was considered impossible by the leading physicists of the day.

30 Quotes - All proven wrong - Millionaire Entrepreneur Forum

Also consider that for every electron that goes into a Hydrogen cell another leaves. So the total amount of electrons used is ....? You dont actually add electrons to either the O or H. You use PD and Current to overcome the electronegativity of the O atom.
Or one could just use heat.

Thermal decomposition - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

All this is besides the point too however:
Can/will you help me with a circuit diagram to turn 12V DC into AC so that it can be turned into 2V DC with a transformer and rectifier or not?
That is what this forum is about after all.

be80be · 1st September 2009, 05:13 PM

That would be a big transformer I had a circuit some where that showed how to do this with a regulator
and a power transistor I'll look for it for you.

**Nigel Goodwin** · 1st September 2009, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by be80be

That would be a big transformer.

120W - it would only require a fairly small switch-mode transformer, which is the only sort worth considering anyway.

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13th April 2009, 08:33 PM	#34
mang9723	Blueroom: YES YES YES ! We all know that ! Come with something a lot more original please ! You can lean out your O2 sensor equiped ECU quite a bit WITHOUT engine damage. Just don't OVERDO it ! Since my young days, we (friends and I) have leaned out our Webber (tm) equiped cars when Webber carburettors were the real fashion statement. Undersized fuel jets, oversized air jets etc. You have to watch the EGT, if your exhaust changed to a rusty colour it was TOO lean.... so you see we know all this, a loooonnnngggg time ago !!! The modern ECU's operate on a 14:1 air to fuel ratio. That is a very CONVENIENT mid point for the designers. You can go to a higher ratio, as much as 16.5:1, just watch your EGT !

13th April 2009, 09:02 PM	#36
blueroomelectronics	Don't you know it's all a big oil coverup. __________________ Bill Smart Kits build Smart People http://www.blueroomelectronics.com/

13th April 2009, 09:06 PM	#37
Sceadwian	How do you measure engine damage, over the short term or over the 10+ year life of the engine? Cause the engineers set that fuel mixture point for a nice long life. I will bet you every single last penny I have or will ever make in my entire life that you significantly reduced the life of that engine. Leaning out your engine beyond factory specs by more than a very small amount will increase overall heating which shortens engine/oil and general component life significantly in the long run. __________________ "Because I be what I be. I would tell you what you want to know if I could, mum, but I be a cat, and no cat anywhere ever gave anyone a straight answer, har har." Last edited by Sceadwian; 13th April 2009 at 09:11 PM.

14th April 2009, 12:09 AM	#39
tcmtech	If you want better fuel milage the correct way is to increase the fuel not decrease it! a 12.9:1 air fuel ratio will give you better millage not worse! The added fuel has a burn quenching effect. This allows for more ignition advance to be used. The combination of the two makes the total burn more smooth and efficient. Thus the throttle is actualy closed further while getting the same power out of the engine. Being less total air is being drawn in less fuel is needed. Talk to your local old timer speed guys or your local drag strip or auto racer guys about it, they will tell you the truth! I have worked with carburated engines all of my life and I know for a fact that it works this way! When you want more power and less fuel, using a richer ratio makes it better. The guys that showed me this worked for most of their lives as auto dealership mechanics. Everyone of them has said that back when the auto industry started going for emmisions ratings the first thing the customers complained about was the piss poor milage they got. They all said that they could not do anything about it until the warranty was over. When the factory warranty was over the first thing the would tell the customer is to bring in their car for the "adjustment" cure for the bad milage. The cure was to rejet the emissions rated carburators to a richer setting! Not leaner! They also said that this also curred the valve wear and burning problems too! However you will never pass an emissions test though! Another secret millage booster that does honestly work is cetane boost. its made as a diesel fuel supplement and stablizer and has the same effect as a octane booster on a gasoline engine. Its common knowledge around my circle that it does in fact give a honest 5 - 15% millage increase. I have used it for many years and have I have watched my average milage enough to know it does in fact work. About 2 -3 cups per 20 gallons is all thats needed. Any more than that does not have any drastic effect on milage improvement. (But it will make your exaust smell awfull if you get it to rich!) And it does not hurt your sensors! __________________ "Issue a general safety warning. Then look the other way and allow stupidity the chance to eliminate itself." -- tcmtech "Those who can, Will. Those who can't, will achieve positions of power over those who can and then promptly stop them." -- tcmtech "Your impossibility may just be my day to day routine." -- tcmtech

31st August 2009, 11:45 PM	#40
Elliven	I had given up on this post, but there seem to be some open minded people that have posted constructive advice here. Thx guys. Fundi in SA means expert. Cells in series have been tried and are being used. They are impractical however as the electrolyte for each cell has to be electrically insulated, which makes filling etc. difficult. The idea of putting a transformer on each of phases of an alternator did occure to me. As did re-winding an alternator. I was hoping for a more ... plug and play solution however. Tesla was a genius. His understanding of electricity far surpassed that of anyone. His ideas were suppressed when he wanted to transmit electricity wirelesly. How do you cut of someone who is not paying? Assuming you can meter his usage in the 1st place? There is some rumour of scalar waves. I am getting out of my depth here but think this has to do with the fact that the free electrons in a conductor are .... compressible? Now lets talk some more on why I think that adding H & O to an engine may work despite the obvious efficiency losses of the engine, alternator, and cell: Hydrogen burns much faster than fuel in air. This means that one should be able to get the mixture to burn at a time when more of the heat goes into turning the crank. The cylinder wall of an engine is at around 200 C which is too cold for the air fuel mixture to burn. So the combustion flame is quenched at a certain distance from the wall. This distance is generally just under 2 mm. The quench distance of hydrogen is in the region of 0.5 mm. This means that there is quite a large volume of mixture, burned with the aid of hydrogen, that is normally wasted. Another scource of unburned fuel is impropper mixing of fuel, with air, in the chamber. Hydrogen burns in ratios from 4% to 90 something % with air. Therefore more of the fuel that is not mixed in the propper ratio with air will be burned. Exhaust gas is in the region of 600 C. The electrical energy needed to split water decreases with temperature. If you can figure out a way to use some of that waste heat to help with the reaction..... A more difficult approach would be to use electricity produced during over-run to produce hydrogen and then store it. So yes: I am hoping to increase the efficiency of an internal combustion engine, but will probably not accomplish my goal. Then again; flight was considered impossible just 106 years ago...

31st August 2009, 11:48 PM	#41
blueroomelectronics	Well flight isn't breaking any laws of thermodynamics. __________________ Bill Smart Kits build Smart People http://www.blueroomelectronics.com/

1st September 2009, 12:35 AM	#42
tcmtech	Did someone leave a door open some place lately? __________________ "Issue a general safety warning. Then look the other way and allow stupidity the chance to eliminate itself." -- tcmtech "Those who can, Will. Those who can't, will achieve positions of power over those who can and then promptly stop them." -- tcmtech "Your impossibility may just be my day to day routine." -- tcmtech

1st September 2009, 05:13 PM	#44
be80be	That would be a big transformer I had a circuit some where that showed how to do this with a regulator and a power transistor I'll look for it for you. __________________ Burt http://mybe80be.com http://stores.shop.ebay.com/mybe80be__W0QQ_armrsZ1